How to get rid of the wiggle in a captured shotgun forened?

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dand883

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I've got a semi shotgun that the forend is the style that is wood captured in a small metal plate and it's held on by the threaded nut on the end of the mag tube. The wood itself has a tiny bit of side to side wiggle when you're holding, which i would like to try to see if i can tone down a bit. It's doesn't affect the function of the gun at all, it's just personal preference.

Has anyone tried the same thing? What did you use for the job and how much of a difference did it actually make?

My first thought was maybe a bedding compound, but I don't know if i'm confident enough in my skills to try like a glass bedding mertial, so i was thinking maybe some small strips of thin weatherstripping foam tape might fill the gap enough to take the wiggle out of it.

Or maybe is it supposed to wiggle a bit, does it expand and the wiggle gives it enough room to flex when firing, is that the intent?

Any thoughts or advise would be appreciated.
 
You're not helping us to help you very well. Not everyone knows what these look like let alone what the internal spot you're talking about looks like. Options for suggestions would be a lot easier to form if you post up some pictures.

The obvious suggestion is to analyse and find where it's loose then add some shims to reduce the play. Also to find out if the screw that seats the part is simply bottoming out before the head puts the correct pressure on the fore stock to hold it. For example, if there's no metal insert in the wood it's quite likely that the screw head and forces from recoil have crushed the wood around the head of the screw so it's no longer able to provide the proper seating pressure.

The devil is in the details. And you aren't giving us anything to work with.
 
BCRider said:
You're not helping us to help you very well. Not everyone knows what these look like let alone what the internal spot you're talking about looks like. Options for suggestions would be a lot easier to form if you post up some pictures.

The obvious suggestion is to analyse and find where it's loose then add some shims to reduce the play. Also to find out if the screw that seats the part is simply bottoming out before the head puts the correct pressure on the fore stock to hold it. For example, if there's no metal insert in the wood it's quite likely that the screw head and forces from recoil have crushed the wood around the head of the screw so it's no longer able to provide the proper seating pressure.

The devil is in the details. And you aren't giving us anything to work with.
Click to expand...

I'll try to get some pictures closer up, but for now you can see the shotguns on corwins thread, you can see some pictures there. http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/foru...-2-Barrel-sets-18-5-and-28-inch-long-from-442

The wooden forend is sandwhiched between the metal plat at the reciever end and the mag tube nut at the other end.
 
I would agree with above... being wood, and this being winter (dry), if it's just a little wiggle, I'd leave it 'till summer (humid)... it may just expand enough to seat nicely. Conversely, I'd be afraid if you do something now, that when it does swell, it might crack... C.
 
K-C said:
I'm thinking that this my be a hydration issue of the wood which is tough to rectify during the (dry) winter months.
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skeeterC said:
I would agree with above... being wood, and this being winter (dry), if it's just a little wiggle, I'd leave it 'till summer (humid)... it may just expand enough to seat nicely. Conversely, I'd be afraid if you do something now, that when it does swell, it might crack... C.
Click to expand...

I never even thought of that. i should probably wait untill summer and give it a closer look then.
 
It may or may not still wiggle in the spring. But if you can fix the issue with a card stock shim of some sort it would not be hard to remove it once the weather turns more humid. Then slip it back in in the fall when you start using the central heat again and it dries out.

Once again without seeing the sort of play you have it's hard to suggest anything other than generic options and hope you can use them as inspiration to find the specific solution for your gun.
 
The Martha Stewart part was a joke but the hot melt glue suggestion is for real.

One size fits all custom shim, easy to apply, easy to remove...... just plain easy.
 
Can-down said:
The Martha Stewart part was a joke but the hot melt glue suggestion is for real.

One size fits all custom shim, easy to apply, easy to remove...... just plain easy.
Click to expand...

I just never thought i'd hear the words "i think i need a gluegun" come out of my mouth.
 
I know it surprised me as well years ago.... :)
It's one of those tools that once you have one around it's amazing how often you find a use for it!
 
AMEN! to the hot glue gun.

If you apply small dabs or inject small bits it'll act like a form in place shim yet by not cleaning the surfaces first it'll also pick off later on if you want to remove it.

Mind you if a strip of business card stock either in one layer or folded also can be pushed in between the barrel and the fore end this too is an easily removed shim to test for swelling to fit later next spring.

Once again though it comes down to just what is loose and how little or much is needed to fix it. For example does the stock have an anti rotation key built into it and a matching keying point on the gun? If so if that area has been bruised and caused the wood to crush back fixing it may be as simple as bedding the key to the fore end with a bit of mold release and a dab of epoxy.

I keep saying this because you're the one on the ground and you're the one that has to analyze and inspect the sort of play you have and pick the method for fixing it. We can't look over your shoulder and point to something that turns out to be the real cause.
 
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