TacticalTeacher
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Georgian Bay, ON
How to Mount a Scope on Your M14/M1A/M305 PR or SR or DMR Rig and Keep it Level
On one of my previous posts, I spoke about installing a CASM Mount on your M14/M305/M1A/Garand rifle. Now let's chat about ONE very common mistake and that's leveling your reticle, and keeping it level, but on the CHEAP.... This technique will work for ANY scope with flat surfaces (most of them on the flat top of the elevation knob).
Many rookie scope mounters find that keeping your scope reticle level as you tighten down both left/portside and right/starboard screws, they may cause the reticle to shift/slant/tilt over to the left (like Turdeau) or right (like Rona Ambrose... whom I have a crush on... okay, maybe Calgary's Michelle Rempel...)
Hopefully you are more comfortable (skill set, experience, tool inventory) with doing scope mounting that most rookies, so that's where I'm gonna start. If you are very experienced mounting scopes, then I hope to raise the level (great pun, get it ? ) of your skill set. ha ha ha 
Materials needed:
* your scope
* scope rings of your choice
* your rifle already mounted in it's stock, clamped in bench vise, hopefully not on a slanted floor
* Reliable screwdriver with correct sized/shaped bits (Allen, Torx, Flat blade, etc)
And finally:
A string level... I bought this one at Home Depot for $5.00 give or take (didn't I say CHEAP??). I told you guys I've 30 years in the classroom as a professional edumakator so I'm a cheap bugger....
This baby happens to balance nicely on my Bushnell 10 x 40mm Mildot scope that I bought off the EE Forum from a super CGNutter in SK.
Yep, it's sitting nicely on top of the elevation knob. I've also done this with my Leupold Vari-X3 4.5 x 14 x 50mm hunting scope that sits on my Winnie Model 70 .308, all Leupold's elevation knobs have a tiny flat circular surface, and this light and small sting level fits the top surface.
Okay first thing you gotta do is space out your rings on the base (I'm assuming you know how to do that). If you need help doing this, we gotta talk. I'm also assuming you know how to adjust your eye relief to obtain a clear image (I like to use a white freezer door in my basement) without any black donuts. If you don't know how to do this, re-consider reading this post, it might be a tad advanced for you.
Now that you have your ring spacing and eye relationship and field of view established you are likely ready to start screwing down the top hemisphere of the rings. Go ahead and lightly install them.
Now place the string level on top of the elevation knob like this:
Begin torquing down one side BUT ensure that bubble remains level and balanced between the stadia lines... if it tilts (bubble moves to one side), back off the screwdriver. Start again, from level and light tension on that screw. Tighten down just before that bubble shifts.
NOW, do the other side... the bubble should not shift. If it does , back off , and switch sides.
What you are doing is ensuring that the screw(s) from side to side do not tighten so much as to CANT that reticle.
THAT is the key to ensuring a flat reticle as best you can on the CHEAP ($5 sting level at Home Depot) or what ever hardware store you frequent/support/shop at.
Now go and do the other ring the same way. Ensure that bubble remains level. If it shifts, they you know that screw tensioning process is shifting the level of the reticle. Start again and screw down JUST Enough to avoid tilting that bubble.
Questions?
I'm done....
Many of you experts / experienced shooters out there likely have your OWN techniques and skill set doing this. My point is a $5 level can sure make life very easy and ensure your reticle is level (for the most part)...
Hope this helps your game!
Train like you compete, then compete like you train....
If you learned something from this post, have a look at my dealer forum where I store the rest of them blogs on M14 tweaks and tips....
https://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showthread.php/1540741-M14-Tuning-Tweaks-Tips-and-Inexpensive-FUN
Then again, many of you following me knew this already.... hey, it's all good!
Cheers,
Barney
On one of my previous posts, I spoke about installing a CASM Mount on your M14/M305/M1A/Garand rifle. Now let's chat about ONE very common mistake and that's leveling your reticle, and keeping it level, but on the CHEAP.... This technique will work for ANY scope with flat surfaces (most of them on the flat top of the elevation knob).
Many rookie scope mounters find that keeping your scope reticle level as you tighten down both left/portside and right/starboard screws, they may cause the reticle to shift/slant/tilt over to the left (like Turdeau) or right (like Rona Ambrose... whom I have a crush on... okay, maybe Calgary's Michelle Rempel...)
Hopefully you are more comfortable (skill set, experience, tool inventory) with doing scope mounting that most rookies, so that's where I'm gonna start. If you are very experienced mounting scopes, then I hope to raise the level (great pun, get it ?
) of your skill set. ha ha ha Materials needed:
* your scope
* scope rings of your choice
* your rifle already mounted in it's stock, clamped in bench vise, hopefully not on a slanted floor
* Reliable screwdriver with correct sized/shaped bits (Allen, Torx, Flat blade, etc)
And finally:
A string level... I bought this one at Home Depot for $5.00 give or take (didn't I say CHEAP??). I told you guys I've 30 years in the classroom as a professional edumakator so I'm a cheap bugger....
This baby happens to balance nicely on my Bushnell 10 x 40mm Mildot scope that I bought off the EE Forum from a super CGNutter in SK.
Yep, it's sitting nicely on top of the elevation knob. I've also done this with my Leupold Vari-X3 4.5 x 14 x 50mm hunting scope that sits on my Winnie Model 70 .308, all Leupold's elevation knobs have a tiny flat circular surface, and this light and small sting level fits the top surface. Okay first thing you gotta do is space out your rings on the base (I'm assuming you know how to do that). If you need help doing this, we gotta talk. I'm also assuming you know how to adjust your eye relief to obtain a clear image (I like to use a white freezer door in my basement) without any black donuts. If you don't know how to do this, re-consider reading this post, it might be a tad advanced for you.
Now that you have your ring spacing and eye relationship and field of view established you are likely ready to start screwing down the top hemisphere of the rings. Go ahead and lightly install them.
Now place the string level on top of the elevation knob like this:
Begin torquing down one side BUT ensure that bubble remains level and balanced between the stadia lines... if it tilts (bubble moves to one side), back off the screwdriver. Start again, from level and light tension on that screw. Tighten down just before that bubble shifts.
NOW, do the other side... the bubble should not shift. If it does , back off , and switch sides.
What you are doing is ensuring that the screw(s) from side to side do not tighten so much as to CANT that reticle.
THAT is the key to ensuring a flat reticle as best you can on the CHEAP ($5 sting level at Home Depot) or what ever hardware store you frequent/support/shop at.
Now go and do the other ring the same way. Ensure that bubble remains level. If it shifts, they you know that screw tensioning process is shifting the level of the reticle. Start again and screw down JUST Enough to avoid tilting that bubble.
Questions?
I'm done....
Many of you experts / experienced shooters out there likely have your OWN techniques and skill set doing this. My point is a $5 level can sure make life very easy and ensure your reticle is level (for the most part)...
Hope this helps your game!
Train like you compete, then compete like you train....
If you learned something from this post, have a look at my dealer forum where I store the rest of them blogs on M14 tweaks and tips....
https://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showthread.php/1540741-M14-Tuning-Tweaks-Tips-and-Inexpensive-FUN
Then again, many of you following me knew this already.... hey, it's all good!
Cheers,
Barney
