How to ReBarrel a Donor Norinco M305 with M14 IDF TRW Barrel...

TacticalTeacher

TacticalTeacher

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How to ReBarrel Your Norinco/LRB/Bula/JRA/ SAI M1A Receiver with an IDF Parts Kit



So it's time to get back to some serious tweaks (not cheap if you don't have the tools)... cheaper if you send it to me or experts like M14Medic or Doug at Ellwood Epps or Casey at TacOrd or Jason at Gunco, etc, etc, etc


First of all, tape up your receivers and barrel 'scallops' where the wrenches/vises are gonna grab and force things.... :eek:





Then clamp up the barrel that has to be removed from the IDF M14 issued barrel/ receiver stub ;





Once your barrel vise is nice and tight, clamp the entire vise/barrel assembly into your vise for receiver stub removal; remember, righty tighty, lefty loosey..... :evil:



Here's a picture of the Norinco (donor receiver 2009 vintage) all clamped up with the right side set screw removed. It's taped up and ready for the 6" vise:






Here's that Norinco barrel coming off the receiver.... WTF? :evil:





Have a closer look... what did that Xhinese High School Shop Class use on the threads? Can't they read the Engrish in Kuhnhausen's Book ?? :eek:






And once you get that stub off, grease up those new barrel / replacement barrel threads....





Here comes the fun part. Once your new-to-install barrel (hey, this one's a TRW...) is greased up and screwed into the receiver, then tape things up and clamp things back into place. Get that receiver wrench in place and get ready to pull down (use gravity where you can) with your body weight....





In this next picture, I have clamped the stainless steel aerospace grade (yeah, right :nest: ) to the rear flat just behind the rear sights AND also to the front sight flats of a USGI flash suppressor (don't use a Zhinese one, they are not always flat/level/evenly cut).

See if you can see the upright parallels... this is the key to indexing.... :evil:





I like to bring my eye to the right and left and monitor the 2 upright parallels as they almost line up. Can you see that these parallels are showing perfect indexing position? Watch how I bring the camera right and left..... :p










And now back and forth until the front parallel totally covers the rear upright parallel. No slivers of light, NO shadows revealed... We are good to go... remove them clamps! :dancingbanana:





We are done... :evil:

Now remove the clamps, remove the tape and it's residue...

Start the rebuilding process!

Cheers.... :wave:


Barney
 
So, did any of you learn much? It's a great project and those of you at the YYC clinic on 10 Sept 2016 at TSE remember how easy this is to do especially when you are out in the parking lot of TSE adjacent to the Farmer's Market on the weekend. :nest:

Remember re-indexing the Anti-Piracy Machine Guns? Used them for Close Protection for Prime Minister Just-in Turdeau?? :eek:

Cheers,

Barney :wave:
 
That's awesome, , I love seeing the process.

I've got a Norinco shorty and I've put my name on the list for a US M14 parts kit (light barrel). I don't think I'd have the skills (or tools) to do it solo, but it would sure be great to watch/learn how to do it myself. Wish you'd do a show out in the lower mainland ( after i receive my parts kit of course :) )
 
Barney ,what is the size of the receiver wrench ? I need to buy one for my M1 Garand project.Is it the same size for M14 and M1 Garand?
 
That was awesome. Do you have an apprentice? Someone is going to need to learn your skills and carry your legacy once you decide to retire.
 
Very educational. You got me thinking about my m305. Might take you up on your offer or just drop by to pick your brain when I start my build.

Gary
 
machman said:
What about the headspacing?
Click to expand...

Glad that you brought that up....Lemme dig through my archived clinic photos... :cool:


Remember that with the IDF M14 Barrels (Read: USGI sourced and spec'ed), they are all chrome lined... guess what? We ain't cutting that steel chamber/chrome lining, etc, etc. So Jean C Garand, the genius that he is designed everything to be "plug and play" with no chamber cutting required to achieve a tight headspace dimension.

Look at the pics below... we are cutting a chamber/finish reaming a chamber that was chambered "short" at the Krieger factory with the intent of having the final 10 thousandths of an inch cut with a finish reamer of the pull-through type.





And here we are inserting the finish reamer back into the chamber after cleaning some of the cuttings/chips/shavings from the flutes of the chamber cutting reamer:





So headspace dimensions? They are large battle chambers for a reason! :wave:

And now, BACK to 1995 when we were shooting our CA M14 rifles at ORA's Service Rifle matches, and yes those are soldiers in the background with us....





Ah, the good times.....

Cheers, :wave:

Barney
 
haim said:
Barney ,what is the size of the receiver wrench ? I need to buy one for my M1 Garand project.Is it the same size for M14 and M1 Garand?
Click to expand...

I'm using a 1 3/4" for the M14 and 1 13/16" for the M1 Garand. I bought them at Princess Auto for around $15 each, then had the box end cut off so that I can employ the yellow painted cheater bar.... :cool:

Cheers :wave:

Barney
 
Nice job Barney!

The first rifle I indexed I used this method (but with an adjustable wrench) and I didn't use enough tape.... marred the finish a bit, but it was still serviceable!

I like the welfare barrel vice! I cheated and bought mine....

John
 
Tech Tip: For those of you without dead nuts straight edges for checking index, and don't want to shell out bucks for a magnetic protractor, you can use your iPhone! Download the free iHandy Level app. It measures to a 1/10 of a degree or 1/1000 rad. More accurate than the naked eye can detect. Remove your phone from any protective case you might have and perch it lengthwise across the same flat locations that Barney indicated. Just make sure it's well balanced before you let go, you don't want to crack your phone by dropping it on your concrete garage floor! I have indexed M14 and Garand barrels this way. It also works for making sure your quad rail is dead nuts in line with your AR upper rail.

Love these threads, Barney! Keep 'em coming!
 
Been there (literally!) and we done that!

We did exactly this on my receiver, and a SA barrel and Winchester bolt I bought from you, then we went shooting to test it out!
 
What are the options, if your barrel times perfect, hand tight? What are the options to get it to time at 15-20 degrees?
 
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dratt said:
What are the options, if your barrel times perfect, hand tight? What are the options to get it to time at 15-20 degrees?
Click to expand...

You could turn the shoulder back and then make a shim so that you could instal it correctly, but personally, I think that’s a terrible idea.

Peen over the barrel shoulder so that it will “crush fit”, I would defiantly use lock-tite to keep it in place. But it really only works if it iis 2-3 degrees under at hand tight.

The only real “correct” option is to find another barrel that times correctly. Armscor (a now defunct ‘14 maker out of the US) used to turn back the shoulder of the barrel so that they timed at TDC hand tight and would then use some sort of “glue” to keep the barrel in place. It’s one of the many reasons why they are no longer around in the industry....

John
 
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