How to remove metal dowel on forend of sks stock?

Black_Valkyrie

Black_Valkyrie

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The square metal down that is a slot one side of the stick and look like a special 2 pin driver or Russian circlip tool on the other side?

Fully refinishing a stock and would like to remove that but don't want to trash anything... take any advice. .. my handy sks manual identifies it as item "8 - dowel" in he exploded parts diagram but it is pretty much the only thing in the manual that doesn't have a description on how to remove.
 
I refinish stocks all the time and don't remove that crossbolt. But if you must a flat head screw driver and a set of split ring pliers with the right end on them to engage the 2 holes and hold that side so it won't turn will work. Turn the screw driver and remove. Voila, done.
 
I never do. I did when I first stared the refinishing. But it isn't needed if they are countersunk to the wood. If they are proud it still doesn't matter even if they get a little sanded. Just touch the ends with some Super blue on the end of a cotton swab and it blues it like it looks original. You have to make sure if you remove the crossbolt that it is oriented correctly and only tightened just right. It is easy to over or under tighten it and that will effect stock to receiver fit and performance. I find it better to leave it in. But it is your choice to remove or not.
 
Black_Valkyrie said:
Do you bother removing the gas tube cover? That to me looks like a recipe for disaster.

Thanks
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Have replaced around 75 of them with the perforated metal ones. It is tricky if you have never done it before. I can practically do them with my eyes closed at this point. But to refinish them it is not absolutely needed to remove them. Wrap the metal portions with tape before trying to remove the finish and to protect it from sandpaper marks or scratches. Of course the more you do the easier it becomes.
 
ljones said:
Have replaced around 75 of them with the perforated metal ones. It is tricky if you have never done it before. I can practically do them with my eyes closed at this point. But to refinish them it is not absolutely needed to remove them. Wrap the metal portions with tape before trying to remove the finish and to protect it from sandpaper marks or scratches. Of course the more you do the easier it becomes.
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Did you replace the handguard with the perforated metal for the looks? I'm thinking of doing that to at least one of mine, who sells them?
 
Robert Nicholson said:
Did you replace the handguard with the perforated metal for the looks? I'm thinking of doing that to at least one of mine, who sells them?
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The ones I took off yes. I refinish the stocks in all sorts of colors. The metal perforated handguards went well and give a better Black metal look. But also it is harder to refinish and get bold colors on the hardwood handguards. The laminated stocks and handguards look much better refinished and take the bold colors like, blues, reds greens etc. The hardwood will do the basic brown colors okay. Many of the laminate SKS's have hardwood handguards so just swap them out as it looks better with the metal ones. The laminate handguards turn out better with and match the laminate stocks. Just a matter of preference though. High Caliber Services a site sponsor here carries them.
 
Hey LJ - can you suggest a source for perforated handguards as well as the pin that secure the rear ferrule (not sure I am using the right term).
 
VanIsleCam said:
Hey LJ - can you suggest a source for perforated handguards as well as the pin that secure the rear ferrule (not sure I am using the right term).
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I indicated that in my previous post above. High Caliber Services. A replacement pin is included with the new handguard. If you mess up the pin and need a spare I have a few.

Link: http://www.hical.ca/sks-ventilated-handguard/
 
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