How to stake a roll pin????
- Thread starter The ROC
- Start date
Is it loose in the hole?
Staking a pin hole can be done a bunch of ways. Put a center punch mark beside the hole, deep enough to move some metal to make the hole close up a bit, is one way.
Using a domed punch or a shallow angled center punch, directly on the hole, that pushes in the metal of the mouth of the hole, is another.
You could ask the guy that told you that it was needed.
Cheers
Trev
Staking a pin hole can be done a bunch of ways. Put a center punch mark beside the hole, deep enough to move some metal to make the hole close up a bit, is one way.
Using a domed punch or a shallow angled center punch, directly on the hole, that pushes in the metal of the mouth of the hole, is another.
You could ask the guy that told you that it was needed.
Cheers
Trev
- Location
- The Conservative part of Ontario
If moving parts give you the clearance, you can put a wire through the roll pin and twist the ends together.
This avoids issues that can come from improper staking, like damage to the components caused by too much force, or pin movement from too little.
The usual method of staking is to place one to three small dents with a sharp punch in the metal the hole is bored in, near enough to both ends of the pin to cause the hole to be dented inwards
This avoids issues that can come from improper staking, like damage to the components caused by too much force, or pin movement from too little.
The usual method of staking is to place one to three small dents with a sharp punch in the metal the hole is bored in, near enough to both ends of the pin to cause the hole to be dented inwards
If it's a roll pin it shouldn't need to be staked because it is oversize and out of round to begin with. it will hold itself in by its own spring tension. If more tension is needed it is common to drive another smaller roll pin down through the centre.
The new CZ trigger roll pin is a little loose when you install it without staking it. I use a nail punch centered on the bottom side of the pin while holding the gun on it and hit the top side of the pin with another punch and it does the job very well flaring both sides at the same time, it's easier to do with a helper.
Just be sure to press the trigger a couple times after to get sure the pin does not get out on one side or the other after you do it. It sucks when it happens during live fire.
PM me if you need more infos.
SB
Just be sure to press the trigger a couple times after to get sure the pin does not get out on one side or the other after you do it. It sucks when it happens during live fire.
PM me if you need more infos.
SB
The trigger pin isn't actually a roll pin. It's a plain pin with holes drilled or formed a small ways in at the ends to allow the ends to be flared or "staked".
To flare or stake the ends you'll need to use a punch that has a tapered or suitably rounded end such that teh inside edges of the recesses in the pin ride up on the sides so the action of striking the punch flares out the ends of the pin.
When I re-flared the pin on my Shadow I used a regular 3 inch nail with the end rounded off in my lathe using a file and a bit of sandpaper to make my "punch". But the same nails with the heads cut off and held in a hand drill used as a makeshift lathe would work just as well.
I actually made two of them so one would seat in the flared end from the other side while I tapped at the other end to lock it in place. Having a second set of hands to hold the gun steady while you do this is mandatory. The fixed "punch" was held in my big vise and the gun's trigger pin set down on it and held steady by my "lovely assistant" while I lightly hammered the other nail/punch to flare the pin back out.
To flare or stake the ends you'll need to use a punch that has a tapered or suitably rounded end such that teh inside edges of the recesses in the pin ride up on the sides so the action of striking the punch flares out the ends of the pin.
When I re-flared the pin on my Shadow I used a regular 3 inch nail with the end rounded off in my lathe using a file and a bit of sandpaper to make my "punch". But the same nails with the heads cut off and held in a hand drill used as a makeshift lathe would work just as well.
I actually made two of them so one would seat in the flared end from the other side while I tapped at the other end to lock it in place. Having a second set of hands to hold the gun steady while you do this is mandatory. The fixed "punch" was held in my big vise and the gun's trigger pin set down on it and held steady by my "lovely assistant" while I lightly hammered the other nail/punch to flare the pin back out.
