How to tell if a scope is in need of repair/damaged?
- Thread starter rtracer13
- Start date
Okay...so it sounds like your shots are all over the place....
Eliminate all the other variables. Benchrest your rifle, check the rifle to mount/mount to rings/rings to scope interfaces, make sure you haven't change ammo types/brands...
a lot if times the reticule wires will become disconnected- this isn't apparent with quality scopes, but if the group doesn't move when you adjust the turrets , the wires are probably disconnected- fogging is another one- if it won't focus- and of course the obvious- rattling, loose, etc- but CAREFULLY evaluate the price of repair vs price of replacement- nowdays it's usually cheaper just to replace it if you even SUSPECT that the scope is haywire
If accuracy has gone to crap, check the mounting screws and action screws.Swap the scope to one that you know is good and see if accuracy returns. Shake the scope to check for rattles. Throw it in the freezer to see if it fogs. If it does, submerge it in warm water and prove the leak before you send it in. Can you detect or suspect any optical degradation? Does the scope come into and out of focus by turning the variable up and down? Do the adjustments turn smoothly, and can you shoot a box and have it return to zero? I like 10 minutes left, 10 down, 10 right and 10 up with a three shot group at each stop. It should both track and return. Depending on your use for the scope, adjustments that actually move POI the amount the increments state can be academic or vital. You can establish comeups by shooting, but its hard enough to outguess wind without trying to outguess the scope.
Check the name on the side of the scope too.
Check the name on the side of the scope too.
If you have a grid type bore sighter you can look through it and if the POI changes as you dial up and down on the power ring it is hooped. I've had this happen to more than one scope that is made by a company that sounds like something-nell.
Have done all of these, but I am a new shooter, so was still putting blame on myself as I had caught myself doing some bad shots. But I've heard people blame the scope, so wanted to know how I could verify it wasnt the scope's fault.
I'll have to try this. I just have a laser dot bore sighter, and not grid type, but ill have to try and get ahold of one.
It takes a good shooter to blame his scope for bad shooting.
God knows I would have liked to have blamed mine a few times.Have someone else shoot the rifle and see if they have the same issues. (Preferably someone you know can shoot well)
I was out one day shooting at 300m and I was chasing the spotter over a 4x4 target face. Turns out I had only hand tightened the rings to the base when I changed scopes and it took me 7 or 8 shots to finally figure out what was going on.
I was out one day shooting at 300m and I was chasing the spotter over a 4x4 target face. Turns out I had only hand tightened the rings to the base when I changed scopes and it took me 7 or 8 shots to finally figure out what was going on.
I had something similar happen with a .17HMR of mine. It's always been a tack driver, and it's got a Bushnell 4200 on it....WAAAY too much scope for that rifle, but I got a great deal on the scope.
I was shooting at about 75 meters, and my rounds were all over the place. Turns out the base had worked it's way loose from the receiver
A little bit of red loctite, and everyone was happy again.
I had that happen to me too, 1022 thread stripped I was shooting good groups and then all of a sudden my groups were all over the place, left to right. The base was moving side to side so the windage was changing. I just fixed the threads tonight.
Also do not use red loctite cause it will be a pain in the buttock to remove it later. Go blue or go epoxy
