How to tighten my scope?

M

mijinkal

New member
EE Expired
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Location
Langley, BC
Hey guys, I have a new rifle that I got from my late uncle. I can't figure out how to properly tighten my scope. I've taken the gun out a few times and will get it sighted in fairly quickly but then the mount will slip off. This is what the setup is like: http://www.mackspw.com/Item--i-LEU50016 . To me the setup looks kinda silly. Am I supposed to tighten the screws on each side as tight as I can. I'm hesitant to do this because I don't want to break sh#t. I'm guessing that I just didn't tighten it down hard enough. I'm heading out hunting on Friday so I'm pretty tight for time. I'd like to take it into the gun shop to ask them but I can't get any time off work untill I leave hunting unless absolutely necessary. I thought I'd give you guys a try.

Thanks
 
this is absolutely necessary- if you go hunting and that scope slips, you got a wounded instead of a dead animal- either that or leave it at home and take a gun you CAN TRUST- there's a herd of smiths around you in the greater van area- to do otherwise is irresponsable- i have that same mount on a bar and it's rock-solid
 
Yea, I'm thinking the same thing. I don't want to waste my time with a broken gun. The whole system looks silly to me but it's brand new. I'm just wondering if I can tighten the hell out of it and it'll be fine. I work in Port Kells. I'm probably going to bring it down to Langley Guns & Tackle.
Also, before shooting at any animal I would be 100% shure the rifle is sighted in.
 
Last edited:
after you get the front ring rotated into place, the rear ring is tightened by an equal number of turns to BOTH of those rear screws until it locks up think of it like a vise, but in this case you're moving BOTH surfaces against the middle - if you're getting the whole works coming right off the gun, what i'm thinking is either the screws are stripped or the mounting holes on the gun- barry over at bits of pieces has done work for some of us-for peace of mind, get it done professionally- then when it;s done, you'll have to re-sight in-given the time constraints, the responsible thing to do would be to leave it - but that's just me- but look out next year
that mount is supposedly STRONGER according to some people than the weaver style, but the way i see it is that it requires special rings-
 
Last edited:
Thanks t-star. I'm 99% shure that I did it properly by tightening it like a vise. (screwdriver on both sides turning it really tight) I doubt anything's stripped because the gun was brand new when I got it, I think it was just loose. None of my friends have seen this setup before so they're useless for input. Anyways, I'll bring it to the pros to figure it out. Now I've just got to find time to sight it in.
This is my only rifle so I don't have the option of picking up another gun for the trip.
I'm still new at this stuff but I'll get it all figured out eventually.
 
The one section of the mounts is a drop in and twist and the other can be used to centre your scope. But the "nuts" have to be really tight. Think of the jar they get from the rifle recoil. I have 2 sets like those on my guns and after tightening , the scope has not moved in years. I personally like them as there is only one mount that can loosen or slip.
 
i don't care for them as they're not as easy to change scopes as to the weaver types- what i mean is i used to do a lot of high country stuff , and occasionally a scope would get get damaged- i learned to always carry a lot of "extra" things- inc a spare gun in the same chambering- if one guy had already filled his tag, you could "borrow" his scope or get a scope somehow- chances are about 95% it would be weaver mounts- the other style used be be a conetrol or tongue and groove- and it used to even be allen keys for the rings- basically, if you had conetrol mounts and your scope was pooched for any reason, you were out of the game unless you had a spare scope and rings - plus those rings are roughly double the price of weavers
 
So I took it to the local gun shop and he said that the screws at the back are not what keeps the scope from sliding back and forth, they just stabilize it in the back from moving sideways. He just tried to tighten the front for me but I already had it tight enough. I'm going to sight it in tomorrow morning en-route to hunting and I shure hope it doesn't slip again.
 
A Redfield bridge mount used on a 1903A4 Springfield sniper rifle has the same type of connection. The two piece bases allow for scopes on different length actions and different length scopes.
Originally, scopes had no windage adjustment. That was done via the rear base. Loosen one side and tighten the other. Once they're tightened properly, the way your smithy did it(very likely with a bore sighter), they don't move. The rings stay on the scope and make it relatively easy to switch the scope to another rifle with like mounts or just take it off to use the iron sights if there are any. It's a bit of a nuisance to get the rear screws just right. If they're not, you'll have consistently left or right groups. The groups could be far enough off that the windage on the scope won't have enough adjustment via the adjusting screws to sight in properly.
 
mijinkal said:
So I took it to the local gun shop and he said that the screws at the back are not what keeps the scope from sliding back and forth, they just stabilize it in the back from moving sideways. He just tried to tighten the front for me but I already had it tight enough. I'm going to sight it in tomorrow morning en-route to hunting and I shure hope it doesn't slip again.
Click to expand...

that's not what you said in the beginning- you said the scope was sliding off the rifle- it's your RINGS that prevent forward- aft movement and set eye relief- but now since it's got a smith's ok, it should be good- unless the screws that hold your rings are stripped
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom