How to torque this style of ring
- Thread starter FatCatsDad
- Start date
Just hand tight with the lever. People go bananas about torque on scope rings. "Just tight enough" is and has always been the right torque setting.
When that little allen wrench they give you starts to flex, it's tight enough. With the QD levers, hand tight is tight enough.
Trick is not to overthink it.
When that little allen wrench they give you starts to flex, it's tight enough. With the QD levers, hand tight is tight enough.
Trick is not to overthink it.
- Location
- Western Manitoba
Ho do you torque this style of ring base accurately to the base ?
I have no experience with that brand, but is a few that I have installed here made by Warne - a note from somewhere was about the direction that the thumb levers are pointing when the thing is snugged up to your satisfaction - I do not know about those Burris ones, but the Warne ones have "resettable" levers - is apparently important to get those levers pointing straight forward or straight back - if they hang down or up, the repeated recoil of the rifle will likely turn them in tighter or make them looser - if tighter, can get so that you can not remove them with your fingers - making the "removable" thing totally redundant - if looser, you really can not be sure which way the scope is aiming, if the scope is still on the rifle.
Did you ever have that actually happen, or is this just something you heard through the grapevine at one point? I can see follow you're saying, but I have troubles believing those levers would have enough weight to them to actually do it.
- Location
- Nova Scotia
Nothing on the inside of the insert?
FatCatsDad
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
Nothing I saw.
I have a wheeler digital fat screwdriver and can torque the caps correctly with a T15 bit.
Attaching to the base is guess-work as far as a value is concerned.
Was wondering, as I also have Warne and Leupold rings with these levers.
They're sitting in my parts cabinet as I've been reluctant to install due to the inability to know what the torque value is.
- Location
- Western Manitoba
No, I read of the issue before I installed any - so never did experience that issue, myself. Never blew my head or fingers off with reloads either - because I read what not to do, and did not do things that way, even though I might not have had to do so. So, no, I have never had those levers go too tight to turn with my fingers, and I have never had a scope fall off either.
Looking at Instruction card for Warne Maxima 2B1LM rings - for QD rings - "After tightening, pull QD levers out to index them to the desired position" - I do not see on that card where Warne specifies what that "desired position" might be. The sketch besides those words shows an installation with one lever pointed to forward and one lever pointed to rear. For OP, is also a note at end of Step 2. "there is no need to over tighten QD lever" - for what that is worth.
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he said "to the base"
Stop overthinking it. Tighten the lever until its snug but without any movement. Go until your thumb max's out. Do not overthink this so much.
Falconflyer
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
I agree, your over thinking this immensely!
Butcherbill
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Blaster land, Okanagan BC
I’ve got a set of Weaver Grand Slam QD rings, the mounting instructions say “tighten until firmly in place, do not over tighten” for both the QD base and the ring tops. No torque values anywhere in the instructions.
My Leupold QRW2 ring mounting instructions say to turn the QD base lever till they feel secure, then continue to tighten to 25 in-lbs. ring top screws to 25 in-lbs. The torx screw inside the lever is the same size as the ring screws and the allen wrench fits them, so where you would use the FAT wrench on them. Same on the Grand Slams, the allen wrench fits the base lever screw.
Reg Zee rings don’t list a base clamp torque value, so I just use the Leupold PRW value which is 22 in-lbs. You’re likely safe between the 20-25 in-lb range, have yet to have a set of rings or scope move on me.
My Leupold QRW2 ring mounting instructions say to turn the QD base lever till they feel secure, then continue to tighten to 25 in-lbs. ring top screws to 25 in-lbs. The torx screw inside the lever is the same size as the ring screws and the allen wrench fits them, so where you would use the FAT wrench on them. Same on the Grand Slams, the allen wrench fits the base lever screw.
Reg Zee rings don’t list a base clamp torque value, so I just use the Leupold PRW value which is 22 in-lbs. You’re likely safe between the 20-25 in-lb range, have yet to have a set of rings or scope move on me.
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Not everyone has the right feel for tight. Few years back we were on a business trip to Munich in the just serviced Audi V8, hurtling down the Autobahn at 250km/h there seemed a little rattle. We pulled into an Audi Garage in Munich, when they lifted the car, one front wheel was loose.
I for one don't trust others torque judgement, sometimes not my own either and use a torque wrench.
edi
I for one don't trust others torque judgement, sometimes not my own either and use a torque wrench.
edi
The ring, if installed properly, does not depend upon having a tight connection (ie having sufficient friction to stop the ring from sliding axially - as per a 22 ring). The crossbar needs to be butted against the base during set-up, then the lever tightened up snug - modest force applied by fingers.
A fella can tell if everything is set up (aligned) properly when things snug up quickly. Otherwise, you may have a mount problem, and unduly stressing the scope - bad news.
A fella can tell if everything is set up (aligned) properly when things snug up quickly. Otherwise, you may have a mount problem, and unduly stressing the scope - bad news.
Suther you are right. There is no way those lever will move the screw unless the screw is not tight in the first place.
A quick search on Burris web site..all their rings are 20 inch lbs torque on top screws and 30 on the cross bolt.
30 might be too much for easy removal with the lever but it is definitely more than finger tight as stated by some.
On mine, I did it by feel on the cross bolt..till it was easy enough to remove them with the levers. But really, how often I remove them ? Almost never..
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I have used those on an M14 and just made them tight, but not crazy straining your fingers tight, just tight enough I can easily remove them again, and they never loosened one bit in many, many rounds. And while that rifle may not have much recoil, it has a lot of clanging and banging of metal parts to rattle something loose.
