How to use your spotting scope

ThisIsMyBoomstick

ThisIsMyBoomstick

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Hello,

I'm in the midst of choosing a spotting scope for the range, but I'm curious how everyone chooses to use it. I dabble in amateur astronomy, I'd thought of getting a straight spotting scope with a 1 1/4" barrel so I can use my own eye pieces, but I'm told that a straight is too awkward at the range. Assuming the scope has enough focuser travel, I could always add a 45 if it does turn out to be awkward, but I figure I'd ask those who use one.

Thanks.
 
ThisIsMyBoomstick said:
Now, that is genius. I hope you don't mind if I borrow that idea.
Click to expand...
Just used 1/2" black threaded pipe. Some 1" square tubing that I drilled holes and welded some nuts. Then some 1/2" tube for the out rigger, welded onto the 1". Then grabbed a camera tripod head that bolted it on. Allows QD of the spotting scope..

I made it mainly because the tripod was getting in the way. I needed to have it setup close to prevent too much moving my head. You really only need the nuts on the opposite side of the arm.

I also have 3 way fitting that used to make a ground stand. That would go on the corner of my shooting mat.

If you like I'll take photos tomorrow when Im back at my house?
 
I prefer straight spotting scope over angled. I look down the spotting scope as a "bore sight" to get roughly on target and then can more quickly look through the eyepiece. I have no problems using a straight spotting scope at the range and on my prairie dog shooting trips.

I would suggest trying both and Google straight vs angled spotting scopes and you will find no shortage of opinions. In the end it's what you prefer.
 
ThisIsMyBoomstick said:
Hello,

I'm in the midst of choosing a spotting scope for the range, but I'm curious how everyone chooses to use it. I dabble in amateur astronomy, I'd thought of getting a straight spotting scope with a 1 1/4" barrel so I can use my own eye pieces, but I'm told that a straight is too awkward at the range. Assuming the scope has enough focuser travel, I could always add a 45 if it does turn out to be awkward, but I figure I'd ask those who use one.

Thanks.
Click to expand...
Ultimately it's personal preference. If you've already got the eyepieces that would make for an easy decision if I were you. Another thing to consider is what position you're going to be using it in. For prone shooting/spotting I'd prefer a straight body. Just for the fact you don't have to "get over it" so to speak. For off a bench , standing or anything else it really doesn't make a difference
 
ThisIsMyBoomstick said:
No problem there. I have more tools than common sense. Thanks for the help.
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NP. I just used a tripod camera ball mount. So I could angle the spotting scope. That part was under 30$. But other method you could do. Probably could just use 1" steel tube for all. Since you only need like 6inch piece and you often get a 3ft piece at CT.

It is really a space saver.
 
Angled scopes are the way to go if you are shooting prone. Way less neck strain if you can position the scope properly. The biggest issue is to have the right scope stand to hold the scope steady. A Freeland scope stand is still pretty common on the line. Giraud makes a nice one. Creedmore makes one, First Strike, Ewing, Ray-Vin.
I use a Ewing base (3 legs) with a 1 inch rod and a First Strike head to hold my Kowa TSN-1, very sturdy however it weighs a ton.
 
There something similar to this design for cameras on amazon for 33$

20250904_130251.jpg20250904_130159.jpg


I made this for prone.

Kind of took inspiration from the Creedmore spotting scope stand.

Have a plan to make it have a telescopic arm. Be the same slide pipe in pipe sorta deal.
20250904_130718.jpg
 
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OP, if you are going to utilize your spotting scope for multiple viewing options, such as range targets, astronomy, window gazing, you need a good quality scope that will show sharp images under all lighting conditions.

A cheaper model may not give you the sharpness or even a viewable image under poor lighting conditions.

Go for the best scope you can afford, after reading as much information on them as possible.

Many decades ago, I bought out most of the optics from a small local firearms shop after the owner retired.

There were about a dozen spotting scopes, Burris, Leupold, Leica, Browning, and Swarovski.

This was a great opportunity for me to compare all of the scopes one on one, beside each other, at the same time, under all viewing conditions I was concerned about.

The Leupold, was good, as were the Browning and Burris, but the Leica, which came in second place, was better, and the Swarovski was best, not by much but "visibly" better under all conditions I was concerned with, it was a 15-30x60mm.

I sold off all the others, except the Swarovski, which I sold off later, to purchase another Swaro 15-60x80mm. I upgraded because I was really into Elk hunting and needed to be able to see the horns well enough to make sure a bull was legal, before going after it. Saved a lot of steps in harsh terrain. It was heavier and longer, but well worth the extra effort.

If you're only interested in shooting at the range, all you really need is a scope that is capable of showing your shot impacts with enough clarity to see them, at the ranges you will be shooting. The image quality should be good enough to distinguish between a bug and a bullet hole.

I use a very sturdy tripod, behind the bench or on a vacant bench, to view my shots. This is just my preference. Some of the rigs shown for viewing while sitting in place could appeal to a lot of people.

When it comes to spotting scopes, you not only need to be concerned with the quality of the lenses, for sharpness and light transmission, but the size of the scope lenses. Large "objective" lenses allow for better light transmission as long as the body of the scope is large enough to allow more, etc. Then you have to be concerned with the "ocular" lens, which should also be quite large, at least 15+mm.

Larger ocular lenses make image acquisition easier, allow for much less image distortion, and allow for a larger image overall.

Not all scopes, even from the same manufacturer, of the same grade, are created equal. They're mostly hand assembled, and if care isn't taken, etc, image quality can be effected.

Just because a scope has large ocular and objective lenses, doesn't mean the entire surfaces will be useful. I've looked through a lot of scopes which were only capable of utilizing 60-70% of the image because of blurry regions around the outer perimeter of the lenses.

Not much sense paying for something you aren't getting.

If you can, go to the store or shop, selling the product you would like, and ask to view it while comparing it against others. Most stores will allow this at the counter, which isn't that bad, because no matter how bright the lighting, it can't match a clear day. Try reading aisle signs or price tags, product markings as far as the walls allow. This is about as good as you can do without taking the product out of the store, which usually isn't allowed.
 
maynard said:
Angled scopes are the way to go if you are shooting prone. Way less neck strain if you can position the scope properly. The biggest issue is to have the right scope stand to hold the scope steady. A Freeland scope stand is still pretty common on the line. Giraud makes a nice one. Creedmore makes one, First Strike, Ewing, Ray-Vin.
I use a Ewing base (3 legs) with a 1 inch rod and a First Strike head to hold my Kowa TSN-1, very sturdy however it weighs a ton.
Click to expand...

I'm usually shooting from a bench, which is where OKShooter's gantry looks like a great setup. Were I to get into the prone shooting, I can see where the 45 degree eyepiece would be more comfortable.
 
OkayShooter said:
There something similar to this design for cameras on amazon for 33$

Kind of took inspiration from the Creedmore spotting scope stand.

Have a plan to make it have a telescopic arm. Be the same slide pipe in pipe sorta deal.
Click to expand...
Sweet. Thanks for the pictures. I'll route through my scrap steel bin. Pretty sure I have something that would work.
 
bearhunter said:
OP, if you are going to utilize your spotting scope for multiple viewing options, such as range targets, astronomy, window gazing, you need a good quality scope that will show sharp images under all lighting conditions.

A cheaper model may not give you the sharpness or even a viewable image under poor lighting conditions.

The Leupold, was good, as were the Browning and Burris, but the Leica, which came in second place, was better, and the Swarovski was best, not by much but "visibly" better under all conditions I was concerned with, it was a 15-30x60mm.

If you're only interested in shooting at the range, all you really need is a scope that is capable of showing your shot impacts with enough clarity to see them, at the ranges you will be shooting. The image quality should be good enough to distinguish between a bug and a bullet hole.

I use a very sturdy tripod, behind the bench or on a vacant bench, to view my shots. This is just my preference. Some of the rigs shown for viewing while sitting in place could appeal to a lot of people.

When it comes to spotting scopes, you not only need to be concerned with the quality of the lenses, for sharpness and light transmission, but the size of the scope lenses. Large "objective" lenses allow for better light transmission as long as the body of the scope is large enough to allow more, etc. Then you have to be concerned with the "ocular" lens, which should also be quite large, at least 15+mm.

Larger ocular lenses make image acquisition easier, allow for much less image distortion, and allow for a larger image overall.

Not all scopes, even from the same manufacturer, of the same grade, are created equal. They're mostly hand assembled, and if care isn't taken, etc, image quality can be effected.

If you can, go to the store or shop, selling the product you would like, and ask to view it while comparing it against others. Most stores will allow this at the counter, which isn't that bad, because no matter how bright the lighting, it can't match a clear day. Try reading aisle signs or price tags, product markings as far as the walls allow. This is about as good as you can do without taking the product out of the store, which usually isn't allowed.
Click to expand...
Thanks for taking the time to type this up. Very helpful.

I certainly agree with you, the scopes I use for astronomy are a good blend of medium to large aperture APOs, mainly Japanese/German glass, with a few Japanese/Chinese-made maksutovs. I definitely don't want to bring those to the range. I have a good collection of 15-20 lbs rated alt-az mounts on burly tripods that I could use for a spotting scope, if I managed to attach a vixen dovetail or losmandy plate. But I REALLY like what OkayShooter has, so I'm going to build that. I want to set it up so I can bridge two tables so me and my daughter/wife can share the scope without have to dismantle anything.

Right now its between a Pentax PF-80ED or Nikon Monarch 82ED-S, $1400 vs $1800. I've only tried the monarch thus far, and it has an awesome focuser. Image was clear and bright right to the edges, maybe a little fading at maximum magnification. The Monarch doesn't have a 1 1/4" adapter but does come with a Nikon zoom eye piece. But, you are right, I want something I can use for other purposes. I get nervous taking my astro gear anywhere aside from my backyard, but if I had a rugged little spotting scope that I could use for viewing the moon, larger planets or star clusters (or anything that isn't too far above the horizon) while I'm out camping I see a double win.

Thanks again.
 
I traded pops my bushnell spacemaster 2 15-45 for a Bushnell trophy 20-60 I gave him years ago. And I miss the spacemaster. Glass quality is soo different and the eye relief.

Over winter I'll make a telescopic arm. Just weld a piece of 1 inch tube to the side and slide in a piece of 3/4" tube with the same ball mount.
 
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