Hunting rifle CLEANING program

Why would you not use a bore snake ?

If it picks up a piece of sand or metal and you pull it through the bore you are damaging the bore everytime you drag it through. Bore snakes are terrible. They can also break off in the bore sometimes leaving you in a real pickle.
 
Best anology from another forum “cleaning with a bore snake equates to wiping your butt with a hula hoop”. Perhaps the visual is a bit scary, but the mechanics are spot on:)
 
Clean the bore annually at end of the season whether it needs it or not; finish with an oiled patch. Lightly oil metal surfaces. A small blob of grease on the back of the locking lugs and the cocking piece doesn't hurt, either.

You should not need to do any additional bore cleaning unless you somehow get some sort of foreign debris in the barrel. In that case, a rod may be what you need to clear the obstruction. For this reason, plus the ones mentioned above, I would forgo the bore snake.
 
yikes.. well rifle is brand new and so is the snake.. did not know these were so disliked lol
Take a length of weed whacker line and melt one end a bit and sharpen the other so a patch can be put on easily. Cheap pull through cleaner that won’t hold dirt, won’t get stuck and can poke out minor obstructions. For anything larger cal I’ve skewered a piece of earplug which works perfectly.

Not my pic but you get the idea,
wheelwacker.jpg
 
I like to use the brass rods that screw together in sections. My preference is the inexpensive Universal gun cleaning kits that come in a little plastic tray. After every 3 shot group I will dip a bronze bore brush in Hoppes No9 and run it back and forth down the barrel a dozen times each way. I'll then put the slotted patch holder onto the rod and dribble on some more Hoppes onto a piece of old t-shirt that I make my own patches from. Make another couple dozen passes. I'll then put on another piece of tshirt but no solvent, I will pass it through the bore a couple dozen times to make sure I get the solvent out.

I'll then take another 3 shot group and repeat the above process.
 
I suspect that could vary depending on the barrel. I actually had that discussion with a shooter at the Range this morning after observing my cold/clean round land high which is often (but not always) the case. My theory is that the film of oil results in higher pressure. The shooter I was discussing the phenomenon with advised that he always starts with a clean bore and his chrony says the cold/clean round is usually 20 - 30 fps slower than the subsequent shots. Although it seems counter intuitive that a drop in velocity results in a higher POI, perhaps barrel harmonics may have the final word.

EDIT: This is what happened this AM @ 100m with one of my hunting rigs. Cold/clean is the single hole on the left followed by two five shot groups to the right.

Did you check your load with a chronograph to see if the first shot is faster/higher pressure?

I have seen 200 fps less speed with first shot out of a sqeeky clean barrel
 
I like to use the brass rods that screw together in sections. My preference is the inexpensive Universal gun cleaning kits that come in a little plastic tray. After every 3 shot group I will dip a bronze bore brush in Hoppes No9 and run it back and forth down the barrel a dozen times each way. I'll then put the slotted patch holder onto the rod and dribble on some more Hoppes onto a piece of old t-shirt that I make my own patches from. Make another couple dozen passes. I'll then put on another piece of tshirt but no solvent, I will pass it through the bore a couple dozen times to make sure I get the solvent out.

I'll then take another 3 shot group and repeat the above process.

I hear this is the method David Tubbs recommends.
 
I like to use the brass rods that screw together in sections. My preference is the inexpensive Universal gun cleaning kits that come in a little plastic tray. After every 3 shot group I will dip a bronze bore brush in Hoppes No9 and run it back and forth down the barrel a dozen times each way. I'll then put the slotted patch holder onto the rod and dribble on some more Hoppes onto a piece of old t-shirt that I make my own patches from. Make another couple dozen passes. I'll then put on another piece of tshirt but no solvent, I will pass it through the bore a couple dozen times to make sure I get the solvent out.

I'll then take another 3 shot group and repeat the above process.

Making sure to insert the rod from the muzzle end. For stubborn fouling, use a stainless steel bore brush...
 
I spent 30 years in the army. As a matter of routine, in garrison we swiped the bore before range shooting to ensure that any oil or debris was removed. After shooting, we wire brushed the bore (I used Hoppes #9) and then ran patches though until they came out clean. Our rifles were wiped down and a thin coat of quality rifle oil was applied over the metal and bore. The woodwork was wiped down but never oiled. I guess I was trained to take the time to take care of my rifle so that when the time came - it would take care of me.
 
Anytime the rifle is exposed to wet conditions, or brought into a warm room after being out in cold conditions, the exterior needs to be wiped down with an oily rag, and an oil soaked patch worked back and forth through the bore, then patched dry. Likewise, bolt disassembly would normally only be done annually or semi-annually, but if out in wet conditions, the bolt should be disassembled wiped down with an oily rag, and reassembled. This is one reason I prefer simple to disassemble bolts. For bore solvents I have a soft spot for Hoppes #9, but have switched primarily to Wipeout foaming bore cleaner, which I leave in overnight and patch out in the morning. If I'm in a hurry, I have plenty of Sweets on hand, but I seldom use any ammonia based solvents now. If Wipeout isn't patched out, no damage occurs to the bore . . . according to the label at least, but I'm not happy with the tacky residue it leaves behind if not patched dry. I prefer one piece cleaning rods, and a bore guide, but its useful to have a jointed steel rod with attachments and some patches in the pack should a mishap occur int he field. I use a very light smear of Lubriplate A-130 grease on the locking lugs.
 
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