Husqvarna 1600 front sight removal

adosland

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I've got a nice condition husqvarna model 1600 I'd like to carbine or take 4" off the barrel.
Before I try drifting the front sight off looking for a screw that may or may not exist? Are these held by a screw or silver solder?
Thanks
 
They are soldered on but very early ones also have a screw beneath the sight blade. Drift the sight blade out and if you don’t see a screw then heat it up and pop it off.
 
They are soldered on but very early ones also have a screw beneath the sight blade. Drift the sight blade out and if you don’t see a screw then heat it up and pop it off.

This, but if it's got the screw and it's been soldered, the screw will very likely be frozen with solder as well.

Heat it up until you see the solder appear at the bottom of the sight and then remove the screw, with a tightly fitting flat blade screwdriver.

When you attach that sight again, you may have a problem finding a proper tap to fit the threads on the screw.

Have you considered going to a braze on or solder on after market sight??? There are some very nice products available.

Do you have a proper tool for holding the sight in place while brazing/soldering??
 
I've knocked a couple of them off by accident trying to change the sight blade. It's not hard. Propane torch and a good wack with a wooden mallet and you should be good to go. You'll be in for a re-bluing job when you're done.
 
Cheers guys all good advice.
Thanks

One other thing to seriously consider is your method of attachment.

If you intend to use the screw or a similar one, through the sight and onto the barrel, instead of soldering it in place, use two part epoxy to hold it in place.

The screw will do 90% of the work and the epoxy will keep everything in place, without needing heat or specialized tools.
 
Has not been mentioned, but I did one on a Husqvarna 9.3x57 barrel that I sawed off shorter - had no screw - needed propane torch heat to melt the "soft solder" - I do not really know if it was necessary, but I scraped the bluing off where the sight got re-soldered on, and de-greased with acetone - both underside of sight and scraped area on the barrel. Lots of flux. I discovered that soapstone coating or lead pencil coating on the bluing - solder "leaks" will not stick to that - really looked bad with dribbles of solder and quite a bit of flux - but all just wiped off cleanly. As above - is a bit of challenge to create a jig that will hold that sight at top-dead-center, when the "tinning" goes liquid. I used a coil spring to maintain pressure. Has not fallen off or been knocked off, yet. Is in my mind that I would prefer a "banded" style front sight, but have not got around to trying to make one - I am "too cheap" to buy one from a store ...
 
Has not been mentioned, but I did one on a Husqvarna 9.3x57 barrel that I sawed off shorter - had no screw - needed propane torch heat to melt the "soft solder" - I do not really know if it was necessary, but I scraped the bluing off where the sight got re-soldered on, and de-greased with acetone - both underside of sight and scraped area on the barrel. Lots of flux. I discovered that soapstone coating or lead pencil coating on the bluing - solder "leaks" will not stick to that - really looked bad with dribbles of solder and quite a bit of flux - but all just wiped off cleanly. As above - is a bit of challenge to create a jig that will hold that sight at top-dead-center, when the "tinning" goes liquid. I used a coil spring to maintain pressure. Has not fallen off or been knocked off, yet. Is in my mind that I would prefer a "banded" style front sight, but have not got around to trying to make one - I am "too cheap" to buy one from a store ...

Making a sight soldering jig is very easy

Just take a piece of steel, round or square, with a heavy side wall and drill/tap a hole for a screw. Make up a piece that fits over the end of the screw, where it contacts the sight, so it won't mark the sight and will self adjust to the ramp angle.

If you use round stock to make the jig, file a "V" groove directly below the screw.

If you use a piece of square tubing, drill and tap the screw hole on one of the edges and all should be well.
 
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