Husqvarna m98 accuracy expectations

DeadShot519

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I have moved along all my 30-06 rifles, currently don’t own any. I either reach for a lighter tighter 308 or up into a 30 mag. But I am getting myself set up to start reloading. I have a few hundred pieces of once fired 30-06 brass, and a couple 30 mags I’ll be picking up projectiles to start loading. So I decided I want a cheap 30-06 rifle to practice loading that will also see some hunts as a loaner rifle.

I have kind of been eyeing an older mauser action Husqvarna 98 rifle. Found one that’s sub $500, drilled and tapped for optics, and has a decent synthetic aftermarket stock. But the owner has only shot the rifle with the iron sights. The only accuracy info he can give me is he hits pie plates all day at 50 yards with the irons (this doesn’t tell me much)

Do you guys think I can expect decent accuracy from this rifle if I were to buy it? I’d be happy as hell with a 1.5moa gun. But from my readings some of these don’t shoot worth a ####. I originally was just going to grab a savage 110/111 or a ruger American in 30-06 but I’m digging the crf utilitarian old school Mauser. Never owned one before.

What do you guys think? Would you take the risk on the Mauser or just grab a ruger American that is more likely to shoot well? Input plz.
 
I’ve had great success with multiple Husky ‘98 rifles and have also used the actions for custom builds.
Condition of the barrel and crown obviously is important and an after market synthetic stock could be a plus or minus, depending on quality of fit and composition.
There are LOTS of old Husky and Brno rifles out there so be patient. An aftermarket safety that works with a scope is important.
I would hold out for a good, commercial Brno (large or small ring) but it would cost more than $500 usually however very good deals do show up if patient.
 
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I have many Husqvarna 98 rifles in 8x57, 30-06 and 6.5x55. After bedding and free floating the barrel accuracy - 1/2" groups at 100 yards with reloads (SMK bullets etc.) are normal because the Husqvarna barrels are very good. All depends of the condition of the bore you will have.
 
They’re only held back by 50 year old stocks and heavy triggers. Address that (or not) and they’ll shoot as well as current rifles.
I don’t own any that are scoped though. For long range I use the more recent Husqvarnas.
Are you sure that synthetic stock is decent?
 
I have moved along all my 30-06 rifles, currently don’t own any. I either reach for a lighter tighter 308 or up into a 30 mag. But I am getting myself set up to start reloading. I have a few hundred pieces of once fired 30-06 brass, and a couple 30 mags I’ll be picking up projectiles to start loading. So I decided I want a cheap 30-06 rifle to practice loading that will also see some hunts as a loaner rifle.

I have kind of been eyeing an older mauser action Husqvarna 98 rifle. Found one that’s sub $500, drilled and tapped for optics, and has a decent synthetic aftermarket stock. But the owner has only shot the rifle with the iron sights. The only accuracy info he can give me is he hits pie plates all day at 50 yards with the irons (this doesn’t tell me much)

Do you guys think I can expect decent accuracy from this rifle if I were to buy it? I’d be happy as hell with a 1.5moa gun. But from my readings some of these don’t shoot worth a ####. I originally was just going to grab a savage 110/111 or a ruger American in 30-06 but I’m digging the crf utilitarian old school Mauser. Never owned one before.

What do you guys think? Would you take the risk on the Mauser or just grab a ruger American that is more likely to shoot well? Input plz.
If you're looking for a shooter, the American Gen II are awesome, especially in the Predator model.
That'll set you back in the $900ish range.

I would even consider the older Sako L61R AII,AIII AV available at InterSurplus. Maybe not quite as accurate, but solid smooth actions.
 
Find an FN Huskey without the thumb cut out and the slide safety on the right side. And,like QN said, If the crown is good, and with a decent, free floated barrel it'll shoot well. I have several Huskies and IMHA they are very undervalued.

Bass
 
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Intersurplus has some 1640 30-06 worth looking at I bought one on black Friday free shipping $400 all in nice actions side safety, tapped haven't shot it yet confident it will shoot well bought several in the past all did well
 
I agree that the 1640 are great rifles, I have one in 30-06 feather weight and it is a great shooter!
I would definitely go for that before looking at cheap current production rifles!
 
If you're looking for a shooter, the American Gen II are awesome, especially in the Predator model.
That'll set you back in the $900ish range.

I would even consider the older Sako L61R AII,AIII AV available at InterSurplus. Maybe not quite as accurate, but solid smooth actions.
Every Sako i ever shot was extremely accurate. The older ones in particular. Never had a dud.
 
You will find that "Accuracy" is pretty much a function of the barrel quality - which Husqvarna seems to do fine, if the user keeps it clean. Lousy groupings can be expected from sloppy fit of action to stock, poor "bedding" of the barrel, loose action screws, loose scope mounts, cheap chit, "dumb ass" scope, inconsistent ammo, etc. A person can not blame (or credit) all accuracy issues onto a brand name or onto your hand loads - several things have to come together to have an "accurate" shooting rifle. One can hardly expect to get target rifle precision out of a hunting rifle, although it is nice to get as good as you can get it. Compare what the top 20 target shooting winners use, with 20 people that you have hunted with - there is probably a considerable difference in what they use. Remember that there are a bazillion dead moose, elk and deer that were shot dead with 3 MOA rifles - one way to look at "accuracy" is that it tells YOU how close to get with THAT rifle and load, to ensure a one shot death of the quarry.
 
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I am not sure how much experience that you might have with a Mauser 98 - if the extractor claw has been replaced with a mil-surp part, or the front end has not been beveled, you will not close that bolt on a round that you slide into the chamber - the bolt face on an unaltered Mauser 98 will want to bring a cartridge up from the magazine - it will NOT "close" on a chambered round - so, to fire "single shot", is usual to put one round in the magazine - not in the chamber. Some people find that to be problematic - at the very least, it is very different to extractors in "modern" guns that tend to be able to "snap over" the rim of the chambered cartridge - whether push feed or controlled round feed.
 
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