Husqvarna Sporting Rifles #### - ALL MODELS!!!

Thanks so much for the info. Do you know what specific model this would be? There is so much contradictory info out there. I have added a picture of a barrel stamp.

Well, the model is simply FFV-HVA 1900 Grade III., a.k.a on very early models DeLuxe (Lyx). The recoil pad is not original as per only DeLuxe Magnum / Grade III Magnum had the factory pad. Grade III have no sights, MC stock with high gloss finish, rosewood fore end, jeweled bolt and most of the time "engraved" floorplate and depending on the period, QD sling swivels.
Standard (Grade II) is the same, but with sights and front hood, no jeweling on the bolt, oiled stock, no floorplate "engraving"
 
Last edited:

Attachments

  • P1010049.JPG
    P1010049.JPG
    136.7 KB · Views: 22
  • P1010250.JPG
    P1010250.JPG
    124.2 KB · Views: 22
  • P1010252.JPG
    P1010252.JPG
    113.1 KB · Views: 22
Last edited:
Here's a 1937 vintage Model 46 Husqvarna before the final steps of refinishing, I wanted a light, classy Mauser deerstalking rifle for the big woods of the foothills that can throw a heavy bullet of some authority. I think this will fit the bill very nicely and for an absurdly low price, virtually all the features and quality and styling of similar English vintage rifles (barrel-band swivel and 3-position flag safety even!) going for literally 40 times the cost and more. It's had some reshaping, cartridge follower sporterized, Pachmayr old English brown style recoil pad installed. Skinner rear bridge peep ($37 US) screws right into an existing tap hole and held solid at height by a drip of blue loctite. A bit of polished buffalo horn in the original rear sight slot. Front sight hood removed, not a fan of those in the bush. The bore is pristine and i don't think the action has been cycled much, it cycles flawlessly, as is to be expected from a Mauser. No tang cracks, wood to steel fit first rate. The spar urethane finish needs to cure a month before the brittle, glassy finish seen here is buffed to a satin, which tends to turn out really nice with the spar - like a tough velvety skin almost. I've worked up a good load for this 9.3x57 with 45.5 grains of Varget under 286 grain North Fork cup nose solids. I was almost shocked by the accuracy, i had no idea what to expect and was more than pleasantly surprised. Also, the report of the rifle was another surprise - distinct and pleasant, a nice deep round boom as opposed to a sharp crack. I was going to lop the barrel a couple of inches down to 22" from near 24" but decided against the velocity loss with this fairly sedate round. It's actually not a bad piece of walnut under that gloss, plain but every bit as nice as many vintage premium guns. I'll get better shots at some point after final completion. husqvarna mine immediately post-finish crop may 2026.jpg
 
Last edited:
Here's a 1937 vintage Model 46 Husqvarna before the final steps of refinishing, I wanted a light, classy Mauser deerstalking rifle for the big woods of the foothills that can throw a heavy bullet of some authority. I think this will fit the bill very nicely and for an absurdly low price, virtually all the features and quality and styling of similar English vintage rifles (barrel-band swivel and 3-position flag safety even!) going for literally 40 times the cost and more. It's had some reshaping, cartridge follower sporterized, Pachmayr old English brown style recoil pad installed. Skinner rear bridge peep ($37 US) screws right into an existing tap hole and held solid at height by a drip of blue loctite. A bit of polished buffalo horn in the original rear sight slot. Front sight hood removed, not a fan of those in the bush. The bore is pristine and i don't think the action has been cycled much, it cycles flawlessly, as is to be expected from a Mauser. No tang cracks, wood to steel fit first rate. The spar urethane finish needs to cure a month before the brittle, glassy finish seen here is buffed to a satin, which tends to turn out really nice with the spar - like a tough velvety skin almost. I've worked up a good load for this 9.3x57 with 45.5 grains of Varget under 286 grain North Fork cup nose solids. I was almost shocked by the accuracy, i had no idea what to expect and was more than pleasantly surprised. Also, the report of the rifle was another surprise - distinct and pleasant, a nice deep round boom as opposed to a sharp crack. I was going to lop the barrel a couple of inches down to 22" from near 24" but decided against the velocity loss with this fairly sedate round. It's actually not a bad piece of walnut under that gloss, plain but every bit as nice as many vintage premium guns. I'll get better shots at some point after
Looking pretty darn nice right now.
 
Most 9.3 calibers are tack drivers.
HVA rifles and shotguns, especially the oldest production are still the hand fitted bargain after +/- 25 years of imports from Sweden. And the original imports were always cherished by their owners in years I started collecting them.
 
I found that many of the Husqvarna 1600 series rifles I have owned over the years had excellent adjustable triggers like the ones sold by Tradewinds.


View attachment 1084785

View attachment 1084786


And you can still buy replacement triggers if they have the stock non adjustable trigger.

Look up Timney #301


View attachment 1084787


htt ps://www.midwayusa.com/product/1006426155?

Timney Featherweight Triggers are precision machined and hand-fitted to provide a crisp trigger pull. They feature a lightweight alloy housing with machined and hardened steel working surfaces. Adjustable for creep and overtravel. Requires fitting by a qualified gunsmith. The Timney #301 Featherweight Deluxe trigger also features a safety. Fits all large and small ring Mausers including the Yugoslavian M48, Husqvarna, Interarms Mark X. Will not fit Swedish M94 or M96 Mausers and carbine actions with "KAR 98" on the siderails.
My solution to the standard HVA trigger is to not replace it with a Timney. They require wood removal and can weaken the stock. (I also think they are overpriced and a bit flimsy.) I simply remove and disassemble the trigger and cocking piece and then carefully square up and sightly polish all contact surfaces. "Slightly" because you don't want to remove any hardened surfaces. If you've never done this before, it might be best to avoid work on the cocking piece. A simple unworn soft Arkansas stone with any sort of honing oil can do the job if you are careful. Then install a slightly lighter spring. Rather than snipping off a coil on the original spring I install a lighter spring of the original length. It helps to have a good supply of springs on hand to experiment with, making sure that the spring is safe. This results in a clean breaking original factory trigger of approx. 3.5 lb., which for me is an ideal weight for a hunting rifle. (If you don't have enough experience to to do this properly, then don't.)
 
Last edited:
Totally. Unlike many think, it's possible to tweak a Mauser trigger to a shorter pull and crisp release... Unfortunately, there used to be a lot of gunsmiths who could do it fast and for very little $$ but nowadays, it seems that buying and replacing parts is the way to go.
Now, before fooling with such critical part, I personally always suggest to get replacement parts, just in case.
 
Totally. Unlike many think, it's possible to tweak a Mauser trigger to a shorter pull and crisp release... Unfortunately, there used to be a lot of gunsmiths who could do it fast and for very little $$ but nowadays, it seems that buying and replacing parts is the way to go.
Now, before fooling with such critical part, I personally always suggest to get replacement parts, just in case.
I find the trigger on my 46 is fine. I never notice triggers to be honest. I've hunted with some otherwise excellent production rifles that are said to have "awful triggers" and never noticed. Perhaps the difference between hunting and range shooting for utmost accuracy. I really impressed by the simplicity of the original Mauser trigger mechanism on my Husqvarna. Given that it's plenty adequate I would not want to add more layers of complexity to something so elegant.
 
I find the trigger on my 46 is fine. I never notice triggers to be honest. I've hunted with some otherwise excellent production rifles that are said to have "awful triggers" and never noticed. Perhaps the difference between hunting and range shooting for utmost accuracy. I really impressed by the simplicity of the original Mauser trigger mechanism on my Husqvarna. Given that it's plenty adequate I would not want to add more layers of complexity to something so elegant.
A double set trigger would never look out of place. :)
 
  • Like
Reactions: DGY
I find the trigger on my 46 is fine. I never notice triggers to be honest. I've hunted with some otherwise excellent production rifles that are said to have "awful triggers" and never noticed. Perhaps the difference between hunting and range shooting for utmost accuracy. I really impressed by the simplicity of the original Mauser trigger mechanism on my Husqvarna. Given that it's plenty adequate I would not want to add more layers of complexity to something so elegant.
Somewhat off topic, but we live in a world of consumerism where everyone wants to be a sniper and this creates "needs". So, we see more and more people spending big bucks into overtuned rifles and when one on a budget comes to classics at a good price, the "need" to "update" that classic to "modern" standard is big, hence the replacement of wood stocks with plastic ones and picatinny rails, 1/2 lbs competition triggers and all. Not that I think modern stuff is useless or doesn't have it's place, but for me, it definitely misses the elegance and class of , say, a high grade stocked safari rifle.
 
Back
Top Bottom