wapitiwhacker
CGN Regular
- Location
- East Kootenay B.C.
Whidden and Hornady make them. Application 6 Br to 6 Dasher. Anyone using one? What are your thoughts? Thank you.
Hydraulic forming dies
- Thread starter wapitiwhacker
- Start date
- Location
- calgary alberta
I had Hornady custom make a set of their Hydroforming dies for my 338 LAI. After trying them a few times and actually following the instructions to the letter still found less than stellar results.
I have since gone back to fireforming using the COW method and have never looked back.
I have since gone back to fireforming using the COW method and have never looked back.
Mystic Precision
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Summerland, BC
You are moving a shoulder forward quite a bit. I would suggest doing the COW method with a secondary shoulder. Results will be more stable.
Jerry
Jerry
338 lapua AI
I have a whidden hydraulic forming die. I have the inline seating die and bushing die too but I don't like them as much as the Forster dies, they are much harder to adjust.
The hydraulic dies are a pain in the ass, truth be told. But they let me shoot a full load the first time through my brass, so ballistics are very close to formed brass.
I shoot the hydro formed brass for back 40 shooting and playing around and just to get more trigger time.
If I was shooting a smaller (cheaper) caliber I would just shoot them to form.
I have a whidden hydraulic forming die. I have the inline seating die and bushing die too but I don't like them as much as the Forster dies, they are much harder to adjust.
The hydraulic dies are a pain in the ass, truth be told. But they let me shoot a full load the first time through my brass, so ballistics are very close to formed brass.
I shoot the hydro formed brass for back 40 shooting and playing around and just to get more trigger time.
If I was shooting a smaller (cheaper) caliber I would just shoot them to form.
6BR to 6 Dasher
I have tried all 3; COW, Form with a light load bullet jam into lands and the Hydraulic forming. I stay with the hydraulic method it saves on barrels and components.
Hydraulic forming will form brass close to finished size but not quite complete the edges of the shoulder will still be round, however forming is close enough you can shoot for accuracy (practice) and load development. Second to this I use the COW method.
I have tried all 3; COW, Form with a light load bullet jam into lands and the Hydraulic forming. I stay with the hydraulic method it saves on barrels and components.
Hydraulic forming will form brass close to finished size but not quite complete the edges of the shoulder will still be round, however forming is close enough you can shoot for accuracy (practice) and load development. Second to this I use the COW method.
wapitiwhacker
CGN Regular
- Location
- East Kootenay B.C.
Thanks for the responses. Results here mirror other forums I've seen the debate on. Definitely a mixed bag.
b72741, Yes, from what I understand the best results come from hydro-forming to no more than .030 long and then knocking the shoulder back with a full length sizer. This gives a more uniform length and defined shoulder but the shoulder edges don't get a good sharp edge until the first firing.
b72741, Yes, from what I understand the best results come from hydro-forming to no more than .030 long and then knocking the shoulder back with a full length sizer. This gives a more uniform length and defined shoulder but the shoulder edges don't get a good sharp edge until the first firing.
