Hypothetical Action Bedding Problem...

Keebler750

Keebler750

CGN Ultra frequent flyer
Rating - 100%
8   0   0
Location
Alberta!!!
Uh, is it really possible to glue the the action right into the stock....I mean, you know.....hypothetically?

I was just wondering, 'cause.....uh.......

....well it would just be good to know if they still shoot OK if you were to hypothetically do something like that....

Ya. Just wondering.






BTW, I might have a really great rifle for sale soon. With all my expert gunsmithing already done for you. Yup.

:D
 
Last edited:
yes it is possible to glue the action to the stock.
to much bedding agent not enough coverage of the release agent.
what type of stock *wood or syn* and what bedding agent and release agent
?
 
What? You mean, what kind would I hypothetically use???

Let's see...Uh...AcraGlas Compound and Release Agent would probably be a good choice for this job.

The stock I'd gl- ....uh....bed is a carbon composite Bell & Carlson.

Ya gotta love hypothetical what-if kinda questions. Heh heh!
 
In theory if it just so happened. One could use a wedge between the barrel and the forend. Park it outside at -10 or -20 overnight with the wedge putting pressure between the forend and barrel. Should come apart! In theory that is.
Good luck next time use enough release agent.
 
The most accurate Benchrest rifles have been doing "glue-ins" for over 30 years.

Useless on anything but a full blown serious competition rifle. It requires a super accurate rifle to start with. It won't make a so so rifle shoot great.
 
What about a rifle that WAS really starting to loosen up and show an obvious change in dispersion?

Went from shooting .7 to 1MOA to 2 to 3 MOA on the same 'recipe' with only 250 rounds thru the rifle.

The action got really sloppy when you wiggle it with the trigger guard screws out, even though it was aluminum blocked and compounded from the factory (Winchester M70 Coyote Lite 270WSM).

I figured re-bedding was in order....
 
All aluminum blocked stocks should be glass bedded for best accuracy and all factory rifles should probably be rebedded. Tighten screws after bedding has cured... if for some reason you have a problem with screws coming loose - use blue (removable) Loctite on them.
 
guntech said:
The most accurate Benchrest rifles have been doing "glue-ins" for over 30 years.

Useless on anything but a full blown serious competition rifle. It requires a super accurate rifle to start with. It won't make a so so rifle shoot great.
Click to expand...

This is an interesting topic, and I was just thinking about glue-ins. How do some the BR guys remove the action to change out the barrel after burning them out? Is it simple as wedges and differential temp's?
 
Keebler750 said:
What about a rifle that WAS really starting to loosen up and show an obvious change in dispersion?

Went from shooting .7 to 1MOA to 2 to 3 MOA on the same 'recipe' with only 250 rounds thru the rifle.

The action got really sloppy when you wiggle it with the trigger guard screws out, even though it was aluminum blocked and compounded from the factory (Winchester M70 Coyote Lite 270WSM).

I figured re-bedding was in order....
Click to expand...
well if "hypotheticly" you did glue it in like it was mentioned wedge the foreend and either stick it out side for a day in sub zero tempatures or stick it in your deep freezer if it is big enough. the metal will contract and hopefully seperate from the bedding compound.
as for the accuracy drop sounds like you might want to give it a cleaning and check ALL of your screws* action/stock, scope base, scope rings etc*
 
Keebler750 said:
Went from shooting .7 to 1MOA to 2 to 3 MOA on the same 'recipe' with only 250 rounds thru the rifle. I figured re-bedding was in order....
Click to expand...

Tighten the screws and really clean the barrel.

Oh I forgot, its glued, don't worry too much about the screws now.:p

NormB
 
Well - hypothetically, it is easy to "lock" the action into the stock if the compound has surrounded certain contours. For example, in mausers where the barrel meets the receiver, there is a recess - if compound gets in there one will have a b*tch of a time getting it out....
 
kell2784 said:
This is an interesting topic, and I was just thinking about glue-ins. How do some the BR guys remove the action to change out the barrel after burning them out? Is it simple as wedges and differential temp's?
Click to expand...

Some don't remove the action. They have the measurements required to fit and install a new barrel the very same as the old one.

If you lay a hot iron on the scope mounts and leave it for 20 minutes or so, that heat should be enough to weaken the grip of the epoxy. If it isn't, give it longer.
 
I stay on top of all the other culprits like cleaning, loose screws, scopes, etc. She just wasn't shooting.

I'll give an accuracy report for my glue-in soon to report how much of a difference it really made. (actually I think the action will be removable, just really tight).

I'm gonna use this gun at Milcun this weekend for some long range practice. Should be interesting.

Thanks for all the replies...heh heh...I hope you all had a laugh at my expense :D !!
 
UPDATE

Hey....I just used the buddy system to remove the action. It did come out, but I couldn't have done it alone. I thought the mold release had stripped the bluing, but after washing it down, it was fine. I cleaned up a little bedding compound flash, lightly oiled the action and reinstalled.

Oh, it's snug alright. Should shoot better.

My next project for this beast is to bed the trigger guard/floor plate because it just slops around in the bottom of the stock. It doesn't really support the action screws very well. My TIKKA trigger guard fits so tight around the sides that it's got to contribute to the stiffness of the bolted-in action. I'm going to try to make this Winchester one fit like that.
 
Oh, it's snug alright. Should shoot better...........

If you give the front, bottom and sides of the recoil lug a little clearance you will be able to remove and install the action easier. It may also help the accuracy. Without the described clearance the lug may not fully seat due to bedding shavings, oil, or friction.... which may cause a loss of accuracy.
 
"...it'd be REALLY accurate, right?..." Not necessarily. Bedding alone gives no accuracy guarantee. Neither does free floating the barrel.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom