i got bit by the M14 bug
- Thread starter justseedz
- Start date
i couldn't help it ,i wanted it soooo bad,,went to CRAFM,and got my new baby to add to the collection,,,a Norc M305
now iam looking who in canada can fine tune this
Thanks Guys
Part of the appeal to owning one of these rifles is doing most of the fine tuning yourself from what I understand; even getting more involved than just fine tuning sometimes! Spend some time familiarizing yourself with the inner workings of your rifle by reading through ALL the stickied threads at the top. I read through all that stuff months before I even bought my Norc; I knew how to strip it, clean it, & trouble shoot before I even held one lol. I am pretty new to this rifle platform as well so even though I have heard of a few smiths that work on them, I wouldn't feel comfortable recommending anyone for fear of misleading anyone. I'm sure if you tell us what city you're in/ close to, there will be several very knowledgeable members who can point you in the right direction.
P.S. Just looked up CRAFM & guess you are from the Montreal area!
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TacticalTeacher
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Georgian Bay, ON
Well I do offer Monday evening visits to my basement workshop for a bottle of JLohr Cabernet but that's a bit far for you to drive! 
I'm working on booking another clinic this winter in the Trenton area, but that's still in the planning process.
Cheers,
Barney
I'm working on booking another clinic this winter in the Trenton area, but that's still in the planning process.
Cheers,
Barney
maple_leaf_eh
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
There are people who think that working on guns is some sort of mysterious black art. It is in fact simply small moving parts with springs, screws and fittings. There are a few pieces never to be touched, but otherwise this is how many of us have learned about mechanical engineering. Yes, there are specialized tools, but a hammer, some pin punches, quality screwdrivers, grease, flat and round files, and maybe a hockey puck, will suit for 90% of gunsmithing.
I graduated to a cradle rest after years of making do, but a well-lit table top where you can work undisturbed will suffice. I've also graduated from plastic margarine tubs to magnetic parts dishes lately.
I graduated to a cradle rest after years of making do, but a well-lit table top where you can work undisturbed will suffice. I've also graduated from plastic margarine tubs to magnetic parts dishes lately.
Welcome to the addiction!
I'd like to second what Pikester and Maple_Leaf_Eh said, there's really no trick to it if you take your time and read up on it (start with the stickies here). If an all-thumbs ape like me can do it, anyone can. Just steer clear of doing any trigger work until you're sure you really understand what you're doing, really small changes can have big (and sometimes bad) effects when hammers and seers are involved. TonyBen and the rest of the gang on m14forum.com are a great resource too, there's some tremendous knowledge and advice to be found there.
I'd like to second what Pikester and Maple_Leaf_Eh said, there's really no trick to it if you take your time and read up on it (start with the stickies here). If an all-thumbs ape like me can do it, anyone can. Just steer clear of doing any trigger work until you're sure you really understand what you're doing, really small changes can have big (and sometimes bad) effects when hammers and seers are involved. TonyBen and the rest of the gang on m14forum.com are a great resource too, there's some tremendous knowledge and advice to be found there.
maple_leaf_eh
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
Today I rec'd a news broadcast from gun-tests.com that relates to the question above.
"Just as pencils have erasers to remove excess letters and words, so the pistolsmith must have something to remove excess metal. The bench grinder and mill are your large erasers. Using power tools you can remove large amounts of metal readily, or small amounts quickly. The mill also allows you to remove exactly-known amounts. Files, stones and emery cloth are your small erasers for fitting parts, smoothing engagement surfaces or polishing. They can be found in every gunsmithing shop as well as other machine shops in the country.
If you already have these tools at home, they are likely to be of the common household variety. The file is coarse and usually rusty. The sandpaper is rough and made for sanding wood. Most stones I have seen around friends' houses are worn, uneven and clogged with gunk. Suitable perhaps for sharpening a hunting knife (but often not even that) and entirely unsuited to the task of stoning a firearms part.
Files for your handgun must be much finer than the files intended for sharpening the lawnmower blade. Pistolsmithing files are precision tools. As such, you should treat them kindly, and never loan them. You will find that files and rasps intended for cabinet making, stock making and other woodworking tasks are too coarse. The finest-cut common wood file is too coarse for much use on metal. However, if you buy files that are too fine, you'll have to do more work (each pass will remove less metal than a coarser file would) but on the plus side you will be hard-pressed to file too much metal. At a bare minimum you will need two large files, one minimum file and a set of small ones. First, purchase an extra narrow pillar file in the Swiss #2 cut. This file, 8 inches long and just over ¼-inch wide, is narrow enough to maneuver into and around your work, large enough to hold comfortably, and cuts smoothly enough that with the right touch will produce a near-finished or finished surface. If you cannot find them at a tool store in your hometown, Brownells carries them. I have used so many and been so pleased with each of them that I refer to it as "the perfect file." It does have a drawback, and that is its flexibility. It will bend while you work with it and you have to watch out for unwanted rounding of your cut surface because of this flex.
... "
"Just as pencils have erasers to remove excess letters and words, so the pistolsmith must have something to remove excess metal. The bench grinder and mill are your large erasers. Using power tools you can remove large amounts of metal readily, or small amounts quickly. The mill also allows you to remove exactly-known amounts. Files, stones and emery cloth are your small erasers for fitting parts, smoothing engagement surfaces or polishing. They can be found in every gunsmithing shop as well as other machine shops in the country.
If you already have these tools at home, they are likely to be of the common household variety. The file is coarse and usually rusty. The sandpaper is rough and made for sanding wood. Most stones I have seen around friends' houses are worn, uneven and clogged with gunk. Suitable perhaps for sharpening a hunting knife (but often not even that) and entirely unsuited to the task of stoning a firearms part.
Files for your handgun must be much finer than the files intended for sharpening the lawnmower blade. Pistolsmithing files are precision tools. As such, you should treat them kindly, and never loan them. You will find that files and rasps intended for cabinet making, stock making and other woodworking tasks are too coarse. The finest-cut common wood file is too coarse for much use on metal. However, if you buy files that are too fine, you'll have to do more work (each pass will remove less metal than a coarser file would) but on the plus side you will be hard-pressed to file too much metal. At a bare minimum you will need two large files, one minimum file and a set of small ones. First, purchase an extra narrow pillar file in the Swiss #2 cut. This file, 8 inches long and just over ¼-inch wide, is narrow enough to maneuver into and around your work, large enough to hold comfortably, and cuts smoothly enough that with the right touch will produce a near-finished or finished surface. If you cannot find them at a tool store in your hometown, Brownells carries them. I have used so many and been so pleased with each of them that I refer to it as "the perfect file." It does have a drawback, and that is its flexibility. It will bend while you work with it and you have to watch out for unwanted rounding of your cut surface because of this flex.
... "
