I hate this - But I'm a SVT-40 newbie

Riflechair

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Complete and brutal honesty requested when answering the following. I'm venturing into unknown territory and I'm outside of my comfort zone.

1. What do I need to pay attention to before / when purchasing one of these rifles?

2. What do I need to pay attention to when shooting one of these rifles? (performance expectations / safety / etc)

3. Assuming corrosive ammunition - What do I need to pay attention to when cleaning one of these rifles (bore and gas system)?

Thank you everyone.
I really look forward to your responses.
Riflechair
 
The best reference for the SVT is as follows:
http://mosinnagant.net/ussr/svt401.asp
It has three seperate pages and is a great read. It looks at production/variations and has great pictures.

To summarize:

There are three different makers. Tula, Izevesk and Kovrov. Kovrov is the rarest (only made for six months roughly).

Try to get one that is matching. 95% of the rifles on the market are post war refurb/forced matched. The odd one doesn't have matching numbers.

If possible get one without the UN import markings on the top of the reciever.

Many have stock repairs (some better than others - patches). Try to find a rifle without patches. The AVT/Navel stocks are a little more desirable.

Bores range from fair to excellent, try to find a nice one.

There are several variations of parts out there (muzzle breaks, triggers, mags, etc.) most variations do not add value and are really individual preference.

I have never seen a 1945 rifle, so if you see one it is probably uncommon.

Complete and brutal honesty requested when answering the following. I'm venturing into unknown territory and I'm outside of my comfort zone.

1. What do I need to pay attention to before / when purchasing one of these rifles?

2. What do I need to pay attention to when shooting one of these rifles? (performance expectations / safety / etc)

3. Assuming corrosive ammunition - What do I need to pay attention to when cleaning one of these rifles (bore and gas system)?

Thank you everyone.
I really look forward to your responses.
Riflechair
 
1) Depends on what you're looking for. Generally, as long as it has nothing to do with Globe arms it should be fine, but the rarities to look out for are if it was made prior to 1940, as these are SVT-38s, and a bit rarer, if it has rails AND a notch out of the back of the receiver, as these are sniper variants (many models have just the rails, they need a notch out of the back of the receiver too), and if they were made in the Kovrov arsenal, as only about 50,000 rifles were made in the Kovrov arsenal. Other than that, the usual rust/pitting, and matching numbers. When they refurbished these, they'd often zombify them, and electro-pencil matching numbers on them. If they're stamped matching, that's a lot better. Sometimes, they'd also replace the original stock with an AVT-40 stock, it has a large A burned into it and a second notch around the safety, to accommodate the full-auto selector in the safety. Putting these on was a fairly common refurbishment procedure. Another thing is the plum versus silver bolt, plum means refurbished, silver means it was a war bring-back and a bit rarer. Don;t expect even a pencil-matched magazine, almost none of the mags for these match, pencil or stamp. Some people/companies would cut the 10-round mags to 5 to make them legal here, these are often flimsy and they're a disgrace to own, so get one with a rivet in it, not cut.

2) Clean the cosmoline off, it's everywhere. It may not look like it, but it's in the gas system, the bolt, the magazine mechanism, everywhere. If even a bit of it is still there, it can cause issues in cold weather with the bolt being held open with a full mag because the mechanism that holds it open, activated by the mag, is frozen open, and the firing pin or trigger spring could freeze up, and you'll get a light primer strike, and the round won't go off. It'll usually go off the second time it's struck, but that *click* when you're expecting a *bang* is disconcerting. Make sure you set your gas setting right, most people tend to have theirs on 1.3 or 1.5, if you don't have it up enough, it won't cycle. Make sure after you're done adjusting it to tighten it so it doesn't slip to a different setting. There's a ring that the rod fits into, that ring loosens and tightens, you loosen the ring to be able to easily change the gas setting, which is done by turning the 5-headed bolt on the front of the gun, above the barrel, to the face with the right number on it, and tighten this ring so that bolt won't move, and will stay on the right setting.

Don't expect MOA accuracy, it's Russian surplus, be happy you can hit an 8.5x11 target at 100m. If it's not perfectly aligned for you, the front sight adjusts much like a Mosin's, and if it's shooting too low/high, you have to either add to or subtract from the front sight, it's not very adjustable. There is the alignment mark on the barrel and the sight post for a rough sighting in, the Russians marked almost all their guns like this when they had them "zeroed," getting the notches lined up on the barrel and sight post is the easiest way to sight one of these if it's off.

3) The corrosive stuff is dirtier than a cheap hooker, the thing will need a thorough cleaning all over after firing it, receiver, mag, chamber, barrel, and gas system. The barrel's top near the gas system and the rod that goes in the gas nozzle will need to be wiped down to get the powder and salt off them. The easiest way to clean the gas port is with a pipe cleaner (like the kid's craft thing, the fuzzy metal wire) dipped in oil. The cleaning rod it comes with isn't long enough to fit down the whole barrel when cleaning it from only the rear, through the receiver, so clean it down the front too, or use a longer rod. Make sure to wipe off the powder from the muzzle break too.
 
this is the accuracy @ 100 out of mine... sold it... not for me

IMG_2934.jpg
 
Pretend that it's an FAL that you have to have a special gas-adjustment tool for.

Internally, the two rifles are VERY alike, despite the differences in stripping.

Once you have that down, remember that your FAL was always its most accurate when the brass just popped out of the action. Tossing brass to Calgary is NOT the way to go for accuracy.

After that, it's all fun.

BTW, the SVT has a fluted chamber to handle all that hard-to-extract steel-cased ammo. It leaves uglyugly marks on your pretty brass cases. Not to fret: the flutes iron out on resizing and make zero difference to function.

As rifles, you can go shot-for-shot on 400-yard poppers, no trouble.

Hope this helps.
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1. What do I need to pay attention to before / when purchasing one of these rifles?

2. What do I need to pay attention to when shooting one of these rifles? (performance expectations / safety / etc)

3. Assuming corrosive ammunition - What do I need to pay attention to when cleaning one of these rifles (bore and gas system)?

1.Check the bore is the main thing I can think of when buying one of these. I was lucky enough to get a 1941 kovrov made svt but the bore was never properly taken care of so while the rifling is strong its heavily pitted.

2. Gas system adjustment is definitely a big part which also depends on the ammo you shoot, mine works well on 1.5. Then there's the issue that svt's have a tendency to eat your brass so if your shooting surp or don't reload then its not a big deal

3. I don't shoot corrosive but I would think the bore and the gas system is all you need to worry about, when cleaning the gas system pipe cleaners will definitely be helpful especially when gleaning the gas regulator and the port to the bore.
 
I have used mfs ammo and my svt likes it.

Field stripping can be a p.i.t.a without the gas tool but it can done with an adjustable wrench.

Watch out when removing the main action spring. One wrong move and it will go flying.
 
The ejection process leaves a dent in my brass and it flings the brass forward not to the side. I reload the brass and so far haven't had issues with the reloads.
 
Hahaha, that vid makes me wonder how these rifles hit ANYTHING. But they obviously do. I just got an sks as my first centerfire instead of an svt after a week of agonizing over the decision, but this thread is making me think I need both :)

Quigs
 
Sometimes you can get an SVT that has a chamber with light flutes so it doesn't screw with your brass as bad as others might. This means you could reload for your SVT and save a bit of cash compared to buying commercial.
 
A gas tube tool is a must, and so is a chunk of 2x4 when you first go to the range. If your rounds get stuck before you find the right gas setting, give it a good sharp whack.
 
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I must admit - One of the main attractants is that corrosive ammo makes shooting these so affordable.



Some people are scared of corrosive ammo and will never be convinced otherwise. I've been using it since a boy first learning to shoot back in the early seventies. I don't understand what the big deal about cleaning it is? I haven't replaced any rifles from rusting away. Then again, some people can't drive a standard either, so there you go.

I shoot surplus ammo cuz its cheaper.
 
Hahaha, that vid makes me wonder how these rifles hit ANYTHING. But they obviously do. I just got an sks as my first centerfire instead of an svt after a week of agonizing over the decision, but this thread is making me think I need both :)

Quigs

Man do they ever! My stock, war abused SVT-40 with dirty surplus light steel ammo can shoot as well as my like new tweaked M14 with match ammo :eek:
They are very well designed rifles. One of my all time favorites by far.
I would say it's only major design flaw was the weakness/flimsyness(word?) of the stock.
Love the SVT-40! You need one Sir, everybody needs one :D
 
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