I may get a wheelgun first...

caramel

caramel

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I will go early next week to pass my exam, all ready have sent a email to Wolverine, will take arrangements to have one NM AR-10 with my name on it ( they are backorder and i have no idea how long they gonna be), in the meantime, i am shopping for a brand new wheelgun in 357 mag, something like a 686 or 629 or else, i am pretty uninformed about those... 357 mag is a natural for me ( the possibility of shooting 38 Spl is a very good thing for quieter practice) as many of my levers are chamber in that caliber, and just think, it's a dandy caliber + i have many rounds stocked, for many trip @ the range... JP.
 
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Consider buying used older Smith & Wesson revolvers. If they have been properly cared for they have superior workmanship compared to new models.

I'd shop for an EX condition model 27, model 19 or model 13 (if you're OK with fixed sights).

Plus they don't have an internal lawyer lock!

 
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geologist said:
Consider buying used older Smith & Wesson revolvers. If they have been properly cared for they have superior workmanship compared to new models.

I'd shop for an EX condition model 27, model 19 or model 13 (if you're OK with fixed sights).

Plus they don't have an internal lawyer lock!
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Thanks, will make some reading on those models... JP.
 
Google what the dash numbers mean (ie year of make, 625-3, which would be 1989) and look into at what year on whatever model they switched to MIM parts and stupid arse locks.
There will be particular years which are more sought after than others, and thus hold their value a bit better.

Hope that helps
 
The 7 and 8 round guns look good at first. But if you think you might use your wheelgun in some sort of hand gun matches be warned that most rules either push the guns with more rounds up a category or limit how many rounds of ammo you can use. So there's much to be said for sticking with the classic 6 holes in the cylinder.

If you're going to shoot a lot of .357Mag then I'd suggest the Model 28 Highway Patrolman or a Model 27. The hefty N frame of these guns soaks up magnums with ease. A nice second choice would be a 686 or 586 depending on if you prefer stainless or blued.
 
I was impress last year shooting a S&W 686 L 4.2 inch 357 mag, even if it was the first shots i fired from it, i was quite accurate with it, loved the trigger pull and felt perfect in my hand, recoil was there but manageable... JP.
 
TACTICAL111 said:
Google what the dash numbers mean (ie year of make, 625-3, which would be 1989) and look into at what year on whatever model they switched to MIM parts and stupid arse locks.
There will be particular years which are more sought after than others, and thus hold their value a bit better.

Hope that helps
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I think the "-3's" were the last year before the MIM parts, and well before the lock.
 
"...for quieter practice..." You need to re-think that idea. A .38 isn't any quieter.
"...shopping for a brand new wheelgun..." Go to your local gun shop and try a few on for size. The fit to your hand is critical.
"...loved the trigger pull..." All new firearms require a trigger job regardless of the manufacturer. Frivolous U.S. law suits caused it.
"...to MIM parts..." The lock, yes. MIM parts, no. Use of MIM parts makes no difference.
 
I recommend a smooth trigger if you plan on doing much double action shooting.
It's always bugged me that so many of the S&W's I like come with grooved trigger, witch I hate.
 
I second the smooth trigger option. On two that I've got with serrated triggers I ended up burnishing off the some of the sharpness with a Cratex wheel in a Dremel to make it a little more slippery. It may well be that I messed up the single action shooting by doing this but it sure made the double action better. And since I shoot mostly in double action with these guns it made perfect sense to me.

I tend to run counter to sunray's doom and gloom about the trigger. Even out of the box the S&W revolver triggers are pretty good. And from there all it takes for a "90% solution" is to get and install a Wolff spring kit and use the softest rebound block spring. And in fact I even cut a coil and a half off this soft option to reduce the trigger pull a little more. And so far it hasn't been an issue with any of the four I've done by doing this. The double action pull when done this way is sublime. And the single action becomes almost like you're controlling the trigger with mere intention to shoot.... :D

Fit to your hands isn't as big a deal with revolvers since the fit can be totally altered with new grip scales. Along that line I suggest Hogue rubber or wood or Arrends. There's likely other great options but these two work for me where the S&W target grips feel bottom fat and Pachmyers feel too long front to back and much too flat and thin side to side.
 
.357; a 27 with a 5" barrel.
.40/10mm; a 610 with a 6.5" barrel.
.44; a 629 with a 4.2 barrel.
.45; a 625 with a 5" barrel.

Notice they're all N frames- this is not by random chance
But this is just my preference, YMMV.
 
After looking around a lot, the best thing i think is to get one of each, classic models like a S&W 686 357 mag in 4.2 inch and a Glock 17 gen 4 in 9mm, feel like i would be cover to start my handguns entry in the sport, i could add some along the way more specialized... Thanks to all the cgners you gave me an idea, will go next Monday for my exam... JP.
 
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1 of each is a good call. Then more of each just for fun.

My first revolver was a Ruger Super Redhawk in .44mag with the 8.75" barrel. Fun, period.

Planing on getting a .357 soon as my wife had a very hard time pulling back the hammer on the Ruger when she tried it. Currently looking at 686 with 6" or Taurus 608 also 6".

I like my pistols, but picking up brass is a PIA. I bought my first 9mm just so I won't bother picking up the brass, cuz I really can't reload it much cheaper (at least fr now). Love revolvers as there's no picking up brass to spoil my day.
 
Ebola said:
Ruger GP100 will fit the bill nicely to. Solid as a rock. The GP100 will be the only wheel gun I will ever own as I don't feel the need to own anything different from it.
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I agree for the Ruger GP100, it's gonna be a toss between this one and the Smith, both are easy shooting guns... JP.
 
The 4.2" SP 101 is a beauty.
A pair in .357 and .22lr is a nice combo,
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Ebola said:
Ruger GP100 will fit the bill nicely to. Solid as a rock. The GP100 will be the only wheel gun I will ever own as I don't feel the need to own anything different from it.
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caramel said:
I agree for the Ruger GP100, it's gonna be a toss between this one and the Smith, both are easy shooting guns... JP.
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It's a small thing but in double action the Ruger has a little "click" in the trigger pull when the cylinder stop is released to lock things up just before the trigger breaks for the hammer. When I'm trying to shoot in DA for accuracy I find that the click makes me want to "stage" the trigger. And in DA shooting that's just not a good thing. Or in the case of my own Ruger in .44Mag it "warns" me that all hell is about to bust loose and I find that I get this sudden urge to flinch when I feel that little "click" in the pull.

It's a small thing granted, but it shifts my nod of approval over to the S&W side. Aside from this one small niggle you won't go wrong with either. The Smith is a little leaner and lighter while the Ruger has a good solid look and feel. I really like both options but for that little trigger pull thing as I shoot my revolvers mostly in DA. In fact I hardly ever use SA with my DA guns.
 
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