I need advice regarding alignment pins on Lee mould.

schick

schick

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My 2 cavity Lee mold has an issue where the forward-most alignment pin keeps moving back into the body. Of course the bullet come out looking like hell, almost comical. The unit was from Midsouth Shooting and is beyond warranty, even though it was barely used (I sat on it for 2 years). Lee suggested I go with Midsouth, so here I am, trying to find a method to fix this bugger myself.

I have already tried to put the pin back in place by carefully aligning the two halves and driving the alignment pin forward, but it moves again within one or two pours. Any suggestions on how to keep the little sucker in place? Midsouth customer service informed me they no longer make the 22 Bator mould, so I would like to fix this thing, if at all possible.

Thanks in advance to any that might help.
 
I would be tempted to stake an aluminium plug in place behind the pin. That or try some Loctite.

M
 
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jethunter said:
Thread the hole from the backside and put in a stop screw? I dunno, probably cheaper and easier to get a new mold.
Click to expand...

I thought of that. My buddy has a tap and die set to lend. If it fails I will get a new mould. Sadly Midsouth doesn't have anymore 22 Bator, and no word of new production from Lee. Maybe I can find a nice .224 alternative mould for the savage rifle.

Thanks.
 
I would use a pin punch and dimple the aluminium near pin hole
some casters had success using JB weld to keep the pins in place , I dont know how well JB weld holds high temperature

http://leeprecision.net/support/index.php?/Knowledgebase/Article/View/719/0/alignment-pins-fall-out--overheating-double-cavity-mold
Alignment Pins Fall Out- Overheating Double Cavity Mold
Posted by Steph @ Lee Precision on 05 October 2017 11:25 AM
We made a change to the alignment pin system in 2012, and have produced and delivered tens of thousands of the new style molds, have received glowing reviews and almost complete satisfaction.

The maximum operating temperature should be limited to 400 degrees with the absolute maximum of 450 degrees, for a maximum of 30 minutes. At 450 degrees the pins will turn a pale straw-yellow. Any temperature above this will excessively reduce the tensile strength of the aluminum block by annealing. Once this overheating occurs, the only option is to send it in for replacement.

The aluminum molds will not overheat by simply casting but can be overheated by preheating with a hot plate, torch, setting on top of the pot to heat up or immersing in molten alloy for an excessive amount of time.
 
Hot/cold cycles that bullet molds see tend to mess with the epoxy/Loctite - been there and tried that and it was short term at best.
 
Gilbear said:
I would use a pin punch and dimple the aluminium near pin hole
some casters had success using JB weld to keep the pins in place , I dont know how well JB weld holds high temperature

http://leeprecision.net/support/ind...pins-fall-out--overheating-double-cavity-mold
Alignment Pins Fall Out- Overheating Double Cavity Mold
Posted by Steph @ Lee Precision on 05 October 2017 11:25 AM
We made a change to the alignment pin system in 2012, and have produced and delivered tens of thousands of the new style molds, have received glowing reviews and almost complete satisfaction.

The maximum operating temperature should be limited to 400 degrees with the absolute maximum of 450 degrees, for a maximum of 30 minutes. At 450 degrees the pins will turn a pale straw-yellow. Any temperature above this will excessively reduce the tensile strength of the aluminum block by annealing. Once this overheating occurs, the only option is to send it in for replacement.

The aluminum molds will not overheat by simply casting but can be overheated by preheating with a hot plate, torch, setting on top of the pot to heat up or immersing in molten alloy for an excessive amount of time.
Click to expand...

I was preheating and keeping my moulds warm with a small hotplate. I didn't think I had it too high, but maybe I did. The 429 mould seems unaffected. Lesson learned.
 
schick said:
I was preheating and keeping my moulds warm with a small hotplate. I didn't think I had it too high, but maybe I did. The 429 mould seems unaffected. Lesson learned.
Click to expand...

Overheating could cause those loose pins but it's also very possible that they came that way from the factory. That happens sometimes with Lee molds.

With my hotplate set on high it's impossible to get the mold over 400F. I know because I've done a fair bit of experimenting on mold temperatures and how it relates to casting. I have some molds that are drilled for a temperature probe so I can monitor mold temps. I don't use it much now but it was interesting to se what was going on and I did use it to see what the hotplate was doing.
 
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tap the backside of the pin hole and screw in a stopper. It's adjustable and you don't need to drill any new holes. If you were closer I could do it for you in 15 minutes.

The other thing to remember about aluminum molds is that they will not take the same amount of abuse that a steel or iron mold will take. You need to close them more carefully and not snap them closed or you will have pin problems. Most alignment pin problems are from using too much force when you close the mold while casting.
 
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