I rebarrel a Mauser broomhandle in my garage. To 9mm!

Levon12345

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Back when I relined my Broomhandle and posted in this forum how I did it (and it miraculously worked. See thread here) I was contacted by a gentleman that had sent his broomhandle to a shop. The story of that is the chamber was messed up, he sent it back to them and they had it for an insane amount of time and sent it back still broken.

The photos kind of explain.
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Looks good from here.
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Oh dear...
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Oh the humanity!

He asked if I'd be willing to see if I could do something to fix it. Me, being super obsessed with early automatic pistols and hating seeing his in that state said yes. So the owner sent me just the upper half of his broomhandle to avoid any hassle with ATTs and borrowing permissions for the full pistol.

I had trepidations of how trying to ream out the liner would go. The liner was modern barrel steel and the steel a broomhandle is made of isn't nearly as tough. I had fears of my cutting tools breaking through the liner and following the path of least resistance through the original barrel breaking through the side. And that's exactly what happened. I swore a lot.

I didn't think to grab a picture of my failure but I told the owner of my great dishonor and he informed me he was cool with chopping off the barrel and making a new one. I happened to have a 9mm blank handy so the owner wanted to do a caliber swap as well.

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I'm sure somewhere in a poorly translated owner's manual it says something about this machine's limitations.

Turning a big cylinder into a little cylinder on a lathe makes for boring pictures but here it is.
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After making a bucket load of chips, I formulated a plan on how to thread the barrel extension that resembled the concept of square and straight to the rest of the pistol. To the mill!
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Bear with me.

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See what I'm getting at?

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Why these photos are all sideways or upside down is beyond me.

To be continued next post.
 

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He made a thing to hold the other thing.

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A bizzarro set up to hold the fixture perfectly square and true. Forgive the amount of nonsense bolted everywhere, YouTube machinists don't go into deep dives on how to hold obsolete pistols in a Chinese milling machine.

Well time to cut off the barrel. I wish I had taken an ominous picture of a hack saw approaching a broomhandle. But the horror you're picturing in your head right now happened. Now compare that horror to this:

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I guess we know why the old liner disintegrated. It's hard to tell in that photo but it's not just that the hole was off center (a lot) but it was also super out of round.

So I made another plan:

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Started by tapping the off center hole. Because it was also out of round it was a lot of metal to remove. I'd go at most an eighth of a turn then back out to break the chips to keep tool pressure down so I didn't move the fixtures. At 28 threads per inch this took a small eon to accomplish.

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Made a plug to plug the off center hole (out of very large grade 8 bolt)

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Then silver soldered the plug into the hole. I used medium silver solder to keep temps low enough not to mess with any heat treating in the steel. The transformation temperature of steel is higher than the temperature it takes to get this grade of silver solder to flow.

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Next I stuck it back into the fixture, milled it flat, indicated the exact center of the receiver, and drilled a pilot hole.

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Drilled it to the size for the tap

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Hot damn!
 

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Receiver tapped.

Next I just had to finish the barrel.

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Single point threaded to match the receiver and starting to ream the chamber.

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Using a resized and trimmed case to let me know when I'm close to headspace.

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The receiver and barrel fit together! I can actually machine things!

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Hot damn!

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Extractor cut and feed ramps

Last thing I did on the lathe was taper the barrel. I just offset my tail stock and measure with an indicator to get the taper I want.

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I then took it out to test fire it. It didn't blow up in my face, but did lack a front sight. I cut the original one off the messed up barrel and fitted it to the new one.

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Handy tip from Midway USA's gunsmithing channel. Put the emory cloth on the barrel and rub the sight on it so it matches the contour.

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And solder. Good god it's ugly after you do that.
 

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Five minutes of polishing and its back to glory again.

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I test fired it again to make sure the sights were on and sent it back to it's rightful owner. Without taking a picture of it parked on my broomhandle frame for a sweet money shot at the end. I'm real crap at satisfying endings.

This was an interesting project with a real mess of a problem to fix in the middle. Glad I did it and really glad I got it shooting again.
 

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...

I had trepidations of how trying to ream out the liner would go. The liner was modern barrel steel and the steel a broomhandle is made of isn't nearly as tough. I had fears of my cutting tools breaking through the liner and following the path of least resistance through the original barrel breaking through the side. And that's exactly what happened. I swore a lot.

...

I am likely looking at a similar issue, and have the same fears as you express. Did your reamer have a pilot? I have no experience with them. If your cutting tool did not have a pilot, would that have helped? If pilots do help to "follow the hole", what clearances would be prudent? - that is, pilot diameter, versus the hole to be followed?
 
Congratulations and on behalf of the community, thanks for saving another old Broomhandle.

I had a giggle at the remarks that there is nothing on Youtube about mounting antique handgun parts to Chinese mills, and that you aren't good at satisfactory endings.

Ref the hand tattoo - RE or RCE?
 
I am amazed at the skill and creativity some people on this site have. I have a machinist buddy who has similarly applied his talents to doing gun work and he consistently impresses me with some of the projects he takes on.

Congrats sir, on saving a fine old gun from the scrap heap.
 
I am likely looking at a similar issue, and have the same fears as you express. Did your reamer have a pilot? I have no experience with them. If your cutting tool did not have a pilot, would that have helped? If pilots do help to "follow the hole", what clearances would be prudent? - that is, pilot diameter, versus the hole to be followed?

I used a piloted drill bit to start the hole. I only drilled 3 diameters deep then switched to the long drill bit without a pilot. That's what the internet said would be good enough to keep things straight but that long drill bit flexed and broke through the liner.

My drill bit I made has a .300 pilot with a cutting diameter of 0.406 and works well. It's slow as the cutting surfaces are tiny.
 
I have owned a mini lathe & mini mill and can tell the folks that have praised the OP's skill... you don't know half the story... to do that quality of work with mini machinery is outstanding & the patience required would be in the upper levels of the realm to say the least.

Outstanding work man... and I would not hesitate to encourage you on to bigger, better machinery as you surely do have the talent to make use of it.
 
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