I want to start reloading, what do I need?

thebaron

thebaron

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I am going to pick up 2 manuals before I do anything and do a bit of studying.
I will be getting: Nosler Reloading Guide no.5 and Speer reloading guide no.13

Are these any decent?

After reading up I was going to pick up a RCBS Rockchucker kit to start off my ventures.

-This kit includes:
-Rock Chucker Supreme press,
-5-0-5 scale,
-Uniflow powder measure,
-Hand priming tool,
-Hex key set,
-Case loading block,
-Case lube kit,
-Powder funnel and
deburring tool.

The kit sells for 360$ at a local shop

What else do I need?
I will be loading pistol and .223 with it.

Thank you!
 
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Hi

I am a big fan of the Lyman books.

Lyman does not make powder or bullets (well Casting molds don't really count;) ) So they don't hype anything up.

I find the data in their books very accurate, and for a beginner, they give very good "how to" lessons.

Do you know someone that reloads? Being tutored by someone that has several years of reloading under their belt is a very good way to start.

You don't have .223 dies on your list.

The other piece of advice I have for you is don't get to brand loyal in your reloading equipment. When you buy a kit, it's all the same company, but you will find different companies make somethings better then others.


In my case:

Single stage press, some dies, deburing tool, RCBS.

Lead pot, Case trimmer. Lyman

Powder thrower, Redding.

Progresive press, case tumbler, Dillon.

Some dies, Lee

Sticker
 
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Something for case trimming, I use the lee trimmers plenty of others but the lee is cheap and easy. Other than that you look to be ready to go.
 
RCBS Rock Chucker Supreme Kit and the RCBS Accessory Kit. Both can be had for under $300.

Then you need dies and a shell holder for each caliber.

The Speer manual comes with the kit.
 
Hrm, shell holder, I'll add that to my list.

How much do dies cost? say .223 and 9mm?

If I get a case trimmer, does that mean I need to get a caliper as well? (To measure how much to trim?)
 
Good stuff guys, I am noting all of this down for when I head out to the shop.

Are there any things that I dont NEED but that you guys use that saves time/frustration/lives?
 
... You can also have brochures/loading data either downloaded, or better still, a copy sent via mail, from a lot of the Powder Manufacturers. Don't forget that some accessories can be bought second hand, IE dies, holders etc.etc. Get GOOD QUALITY stuff no matter what ! It'll work out cheaper in the long run ! Carbide dies eliminate lube pads and the mess, also a case cleaner/tumbler is good ( Lyman have excellent customer service in you buy a used one and need parts) ... good lighting over your work area is another essential ! .... as a safety measure, only load one cartridge/caliber at a time, and only have one powder on the table at a time ! ..... slow and careful is the way to go ! That way it's a very safe and satisfying hobby that's affordable !! ..... David K.
 
looks like your on the way......add in the other few goodies ..others have said.... read the manuals over and over:) then post your results here:) cheers and happy reloading..

ps....if your not sure of something..:redface: please dont be shy to ask all here;)

Don
 
I just bought the Rockchucker Kit to get started as well. I looked at lots before buying and I think for what I am doing, it can't be beat. Great choice!

Don't hesitate to ask questions. EVERYONE here is great. They all enjoy what they do, but I think they enjoy getting others involved more!!
 
Reloading Books

Here's another good book for starting up. Available from Amazon.ca for $18.66
reload.jpg


http://www.amazon.ca/exec/obidos/AS...31172-6457112?_encoding=UTF8&s=books&v=glance
 
I was reading the manual and looking at the different .223 loads. One is a 40g Sierra Spitzer. Can I load any .40 gr .224 bullet with this load data or only the 40gr spitzer? (This question applies to all other types, I was using the spitzer as an example)
 
Anyone?

For load data stated for a 55gr XX brand YY type bullet,

Can I load the same charge in a 55gr AA brand BB type bullet?

Oh, none of the manuals I read tell me how deep to seat the bullet using XX amount of powder? They state the maximum overall length but that's it.
 
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I am no expert, but I will give you what I have learned. For different design, the projectile will travel differently. This could, in theory, change the pressure of the chamber and barrel is subject to. Spitzer boat tail will generally have less drag/ect than a wadcutter for the same weight/diameter. I would stick to the manual exactly if I was you. So much as your choice primer can change the pressure. Atleast in shotshell reloading.
As for seating, the overall length is the max that the ammo can be. Limitation that might not allow this length include mag length (Milsurps I hear), the best positioning of the projectile to the lands, and others.

Hopefully others will chip in their experience as I havent much experience with reloading, just lots of reading and physics :D
 
Varying the brand of bullet usually won't make much of a difference, however when trying new loads/bullets for your particular gun start at minumum recommended load and work up from there. Varying seating depths will affect pressure so again when adjusting from SAAMI specs to tailor for your gun work up from minimum charge. It is a time consuming but rewarding hobby, if you haven't bought your equipment yet take a look at the Lee anniversary kit, good bang for your buck and a great way to get started on this obsession.
 
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