Improved Modified or Modified for Trap?

Gasanwu

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Playing around with the new Beretta 391 I just bought. I'm just wondering which is better for an autoloader? Since I can only use one choke. What is better for trap? Improved Modified or Modified? Should it be any different if it's 16 yard, double, handi cap(I'd be put on the 16 yard post anyway...:p )?

And for some reason I keep on missing easy straight away targets when I shoot on the 3rd post... any advices? I was using IM choke at the time. I was using target rounds... Winchester 12Ga, 2 3/4... #7.5 1400ft/s or something...
 
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Either choke should work. I prefer modified for 16 yard trap and IM or Full for Handicap.

If you are missing straightaways from the 3rd post you are most likely lifting your head and shooting over the target. Keep your face ON the stock. A straightaway bird from the middle stations almost begs you to lift your head.
 
Here is the long answer to your choke question. In order to break a trap target, you have to send a pattern of shot downrange to intercept the moving target. Ideally, this pattern should be as wide (large in diameter) as possible, while still maintaining enough pattern density (pellets per unit of area) to prevent the target from slipping through. Yes, it is possible to miss a target, even if your aim is dead on. If your pattern has "holes" in it, you can shoot correctly and still fail to break the target.

The pattern is determined by a number of factors, but is affected most by 1) the degree and type of constriction of the muzzle (choke) and 2) the LOAD you are using. Most people do not think of the load when they are talking about chokes. In fact what you are talking about is patterns, and you must talk about the choke and the load when talking patterns.

Two different loads will not pattern the same way when shot through a given amount of choke. This should come as no surprise, after all rifles do not shoot different loads to the same point of impact, so why should shotgun shells all pattern the same?

Degrees of choke such as improved cylinder, modified or full are not international standards, they are the makers interpretation of what those patterns should be. Depending on the manufacturer, a full choke will provide between 0.35 and 0.45 inches of constriction. You cannot expect that a .35" choke will provide the same pattern as one measuring .45, but both are considered "full" chokes.

12 gauge shotshells for targets may contain 1 1/8th oz., 1 oz. or 7/8th oz. of number 7 1/2, 8 or 9 shot, and may be as slow as 1050 fps or as fast as 1400 fps. Different shells will not pattern in the same manner if shot through the same barrel.

The ONLY way to know what kind of patterns you are getting is to shoot your choke and load combination at paper, at the distance at which you expect to break the target. In the case of 16 yd. ATA singles, that could be 26 yards, for the second shot at doubles that could be 40 yards.

A gun which puts 75 percent of a given load in a 30 inch circle at 40 yards would be an ideal full choke gun, unless it concentrated most of the pellets on one side of the circle, or left a doughnut hole in the middle. Unfortunately, the ideal gun and load combination has yet to be invented, so ALL of us shoot patterns which are less than perfect. Some load / choke combos throw patterns which are much more even and consistent than others. If you spend any time shooting patterns, you will find that the differences are not subtle. You can shoot light modified and extra full patterns out of the same choke tube, just by changing loads. Some loads (such as spreader loads) are designed to give wide patterns out of tight chokes. Loads with hard shot and full length shot cups will often (not always) give tight patterns, regardless of the choke used.

To determine the "best" setup to use at trap, there is no substitute for shooting patterns at paper. Experiment with what loads are available, and try them with different choke tubes. Select the combination which produces the most evenly distributed pattern at your longest shooting distance, and you will be well ahead of the game. The results may not be what you expect.

Sharptail
 
I agree with Clay but it depends on the choke. My Browning chokes I used IM for 16 yrds and handicap. My briely extended chokes I can use Modified all the way back to 22yrds. The briely's are a little tight but they are great.

Jacky
 
I'm with Clay on this one because I miss straightaways too...and its because I lift and shoot over...is your gun a "trap" model?
 
Straightaways from post three are not an easy target as everyone seems to think.They are the MOST often missed target in trapshooting today.Think about it.If they were easy,they wouldn't be the most often missed.Too many guys(and ladies)take it for granted that they're easy and get a bit over confident when shooting them.Remember,head on the stock,eye on the target,keep the gun moving and the target will break.
Dave
 
No my gun isn't a trap model... it's the 391 gold sporting model... which doesn't have the monte carlo stock... How do I know if I'm lifting my head or not?

The other thing is, I'm right handed and left eye dominant. So If I use my right hand shoot with my left eye closed, I can see the target still but slower, but the stock feel just right. If I shoot with my left hand and with both eyes open. I can get to the target faster, but I tend to over swing a little and the gun somehow feel less comfortable than if I was using my right hand. Any suggestions?
 
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Chokes are a thing of "inches", misses are a thing of "feet".

I don't believe a slight change in choke will help you break ALOT more birds. It may help break birds harder, and may give you the odd break you may not have had with a tigher choke.
 
vetteman said:
Straightaways from post three are not an easy target as everyone seems to think.They are the MOST often missed target in trapshooting today.

This is because they only appear to staightaways. There is truth to the "there are no straightaways" comment comming from trap shooters. Every bird is angled to some degree. Most of us, me included, shoot behind the bird because we think it is a staightaway.

Jacky
 
98 "ink-balled" targets is quite impressive, but 100 well-broken targets is even
more impressive. Use just enough choke to get the job done consistantly.
Just a a little error will put that tight Full or I/M pattern off the target at
16 yards.
 
First I agree with the others that say you are probably lifting your head on those straight away targets. How do I know. Because I do it frequently as well. 90% of the trap targets I miss seem to be straight aways. Some people think they are easy and they can be with the proper concentration.

As to choke, I normally use a LIGHT modifed Briley choke for 16 yd and find it works quite well and will break targets quite well out to any reasonable distance.
 
Try putting a little sticker about 1/4" to 3/8" diameter in the centre of your left glasses lens. If that doesn't work better for you shooting with both eyes open, then you may have to practice shooting left handed.
 
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