Increments of powder during load developpement.

Tak

Tak

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So having sorted out my case prep issues :p, I'm ready to start loading. A few questions :

Is it ok to start 10% lower from the max load ?

What would be the correct increments (percentage), how fast should I raise the powder charge ?

I'm trying to figure out a pattern here , starting loads, in between loads etc.

Thanks

JP
 
It's kinda caliber specific, If I'm loading for a 7mm or a 300 win mag, I will be using slower burning powders and will ussually do load development in 1-2 gr increments. If I'm loading for a 204 or 22-250, I,m using faster burning powders /less case capacity, I'm down to .3 - .5 gr increments, I have found that ussually loads in the mid range seem to give most accuracy,consistency, and have acceptable velocity aswell.
 
Thanks, I'll be loading for 300 wm and 30-30

So I guess 300 wm : 1-2 gr
And 30-30 : .5 gr

:)
 
With some powders it is dangerous to use too light a load. I wouldn't go under the starting loads in the manual.

I usually work with 1 grain increments to start off, then go to 1/2 grain increments when I am zeroing in on the optimum.

Hugh
 
"...ok to start 10% lower..." Maybe. Depends on the powder and cartridge. For example, with a .300 Mag, 10% under the max of 70 grains for a 165 grain bullet using H4350(random selection) is 3 grains under minimum. Every load with every bullet weight goes under minumum for a .300 Mag. Most .30-30 starting loads are or are very close to the starting loads on Hodgdon's site.
It's better to use the Starting load given in your manual and work up, in half grain increments, to the max load. Load 5 of each or a mag load if your rifle only holds 4. Mark the cases or any other method to keep 'em separate.
 
So I'm in Tak's shoes as well. I have worked up in .5gr increments to 0.7gr above the listed maximum in my Sierra reloading manual. I am loading for 22-250 and using Varget powder. I have a load right now that is 36.8 gr and showing no signs of overpressure. I have shot it for group (5 shots) and some of the holes are touching and a couple are less than 0.4 inches away at 100 yds. (My fault-not the gun or load!) How do I know when to stop? All of the increments from 35 gr on up to 36.8 all shot comparable groups. I am wondering should I just say "Yay, under 0.5 in at 100 yds. Done." Or should continue? I am working up a load for coyote hunting and just to see how good I can get it. I have read a ton of info on how to reload, case prep, neck turning, case neck annealing, etc, etc, etc, but I have never read anything about how or where to stop! I'm sure it depends on what your goal is, but I can't help wondering-can it get better?
Sorry for the long winded post, just never been able to nail it down.

Thanks.
 
Say the max load averages 50 grains in three manuals, i would probably start at 47, do 6 at 47, 6 at 48, 6 at 49, 6 at 49.5 then finally at 50.
 
Stevo94 said:
So I'm in Tak's shoes as well. I have worked up in .5gr increments to 0.7gr above the listed maximum in my Sierra reloading manual. I am loading for 22-250 and using Varget powder. I have a load right now that is 36.8 gr and showing no signs of overpressure. I have shot it for group (5 shots) and some of the holes are touching and a couple are less than 0.4 inches away at 100 yds. (My fault-not the gun or load!) How do I know when to stop? All of the increments from 35 gr on up to 36.8 all shot comparable groups. I am wondering should I just say "Yay, under 0.5 in at 100 yds. Done." Or should continue? I am working up a load for coyote hunting and just to see how good I can get it. I have read a ton of info on how to reload, case prep, neck turning, case neck annealing, etc, etc, etc, but I have never read anything about how or where to stop! I'm sure it depends on what your goal is, but I can't help wondering-can it get better?
Sorry for the long winded post, just never been able to nail it down.

Thanks.
Click to expand...

22-250s are famous for being easy to load for and accurate with many different combinations. Chronograph the accurate loads you are shooting. A chronograph costs less than $100 and should be in every reloaders equipment as it is the surest way to verify pressure, short of a pressure gauage.

With a barrel the same length as the test barrel velocity=pressure. There is no deviating from this formula. If your over max load is at or above the max listed velocity then so is your pressure. If your barrel is shorter than the test barrel you are for sure over their pressures. Stop and back up to a velocity within the max pressure for your round, accounting for your barrel leght in the equation.

Most guns can handle loads 25 or even 40% over the rated pressure. this is what English and European proof houses do when they proof a gun. This is designed to create a SAFETY zone only, it is not designed so one can fire every round at proof house loadings.

It is a very bad idea to continually shoot them over pressure. In addition to the extra stresses, one load with a little too much powder, hotter primer or fired on a really hot day or from a hot chamber will use up the last of the pressure capacity and you stand a good chance of blowing the gun.

To the original question, I start at the mid point of the min and max after consulting 3 reliable sources amd work up in .3s for all calibers. I am looking for a load that shoots well with up to a .9 differnce in powder, then load in the middle of that .9 zone. This gives me an area of stabilty where temperature and humidity changes don't radically affect my accuracy.
 
martinbns said:
Say the max load averages 50 grains in three manuals, i would probably start at 47, do 6 at 47, 6 at 48, 6 at 49, 6 at 49.5 then finally at 50.
Click to expand...

That's the way I do it as well but I only load 5 for my hunting rounds.

For precision, I take it a step further. Once I have found the most the 2 best loads (lets say 47-48 grains), I will go down to 1/10 of a grain to get that last little bit of accuracy (47.1, 47.2 47.3...)

With my old Savage FP10 I was able to get 3 shots within a dime at 100m. That's was the best I could get, it shot better than I did :)
 
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With my 17FB I went up in 1/10th grain increments, but it is a small case. I settled on 1.1gr below max for accuracy.
 
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