IPSC Target Stands

[KillerSquirrel]

Does anyone have any pictures or drawings of those wood IPSC target stands? I'd like to build some but I can't remember any of the dimensions. IIRC they're just a bunch of 2x4s slapped together.

 

[RePete]

You make them the width of the Classic target, and use 1x2'sabout 5' tall for the uprights.

RePete.

 

[viper7]

Instructions link

The diagrams are a little screwed up, but the link should clarify things.

I've built dozens of these...best built with galvanized nails or big ass screws.



http://www.kuci.org/~dany/firearms/targets.html

Poor Man's Target Frame

Welded target frames typically cost $25 or more. You can cut cost by building your own. They won't be as compact as welded frames might, but they will be functional.

Need:

One 8' 2x4
Two 5' 1x2s
Two short (6") 1x2 spacers.
Saw (and miter box if you are using a hand saw)
C-clamps capable of a 4" span
drill and screws, or hammer and nails

Procedure:

Cut the 2x4 into two 18" lengths, and two 30" lengths. Cuts should be an even 90 degrees so the ends will square well.

Clamp the two 18" pieces parallel to each other, on edge, with the short 1x2 spacers between them. The spacers should have the long side flat between the two boards, so that the gap between is the skinny width of the 1x2s--approximately three-quarters of an inch.


Place the clamped 18" assembly on a flat surface and put the two 30" 2x4s on edge, at a 90-degree angle to the other boards, centered. Nail or screw the joints together at the arrows:

Remove the clamps and spacers, and you will have a completed target-frame base. Each base will accomodate one IPSC target. They can be stacked for transportation.

When you want to shoot, set the base down, and insert two 5' 1x2s vertically into the gap. It should be a tight fit. If the 1x2s are too loose, wrap the ends once with masking tape. You will end up with a target frame five feet high, with a stable base, and plenty of surface area for stapling your target or cardboard backing to.

 

[(((Echo)))]

IF you're a welder or know one, make it like this.



(E)

 

[Walter Hornby]

one piece of advice. when you are spacing the 2 x 4 for the target sticks, use a piece of lathe with a peice of carboard on it. otherwise you stands will be to tight when they swell due humidty and heat.

 

[Slavex]

or only attach one piece of the cross bean to the legs. use a 4-5 inch carriage bolt to secure the cross beams to each other. That way you can tighten it up or loosen it to fit other sizes of lath, including 1x2 if need be.

 

[doc25]

..... and use wing nuts so you don't need to have tools on hand!

 

[Slavex]

ooops forgot the wingnuts part, but yeah, use wingnuts.

 

[96Brigadier]

or only attach one piece of the cross bean to the legs. use a 4-5 inch carriage bolt to secure the cross beams to each other. That way you can tighten it up or loosen it to fit other sizes of lath, including 1x2 if need be.

I made two of this style last night. My plans are as follows (to build two stands):

3 - 8' 2x3
2 - 3/8" diameter 6" carriage bolts
2 - 3/8" wing nuts
4 - 8' long by 1/2" lathes.
24 - 2.5" #8 wood screws

Cut the 2x3's into 23" lengths. Each 2x3 gives you four 23" lengths for a total of 12 pieces.

Screw four of the 23" lengths together to form a box, two of them on the bottom and two on top. Note that this then forms a box 23" by 23" on the outside, 18" by 18" on the inside (i.e. the inside width is the width of an IPSC target).

On the 5th and 6th 23" lengths drill a 1/2" hole through the middle. Screw one of them to the top of the box you made, use the carriage bolt and wing nut to attach the other. This gives you a sliding rail that you can tighten with the wingnut.

Cut the 8' lathes to desired height, stand upright in the gap between the two rails and tighten

I'll post pictures if desired. With a mitre saw, cordless drill and tape measure I was able to make two stands in about a half hour (these plans will make two stands).