Is there any way to estimate muzzle velocity without a chrony?

A chronograph is an invaluable tool. If you are going to try and back-calculate your velocity using measured drops at different ranges though, I would recommend going out a lot further than 400 meters to where the trajectory starts dropping off a lot more.

A quick example using ballistic data I have for my 223's 75 gr A-Max load (2795 fps at the muzzle, 100 meter zero), I get 9.0 MOA up adjustment required to be on target at 400 meters. Just playing around in my ballistics program, I can go down to 2755 fps muzzle velocity and only need 9.3 MOA up. I can go up in muzzle velocity to 2838 fps and then only need 8.7 MOA up. Assuming I can shoot consistent 0.6 MOA groups at 400 meters, this gives me an 83 fps spread where the true velocity can be. This can add a lot of uncertainty when stretching out to longer ranges. Of course maybe this is close enough if you can spot your splashes and aren't worried about first round hits at longer ranges

That is assuming you only used one distance to true your algorithm. The more accurate input parameters you provide the truing solver, the better your estimation.

I am only speaking from personal experience, I could care less what a chronograph says, where the bullets actually meet the paper is what concerns me.

So, what's the associated error in the chronograph you or anyone else uses?
 
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If you're worried about getting on paper at 600m without knowing your m.v., don't worry it's not that bad. You can probably get by without a chrono, in fact.

Hodgdon's online loading info indicates, for .223 Rem loaded with Varget, an m.v. of 2784fps for a starting load and an m.v. of 3010 for their indicated max load. Assuming you have any reasonable loading of Varget, you won't know what exactly your m.v. is but let's take a wild guess and assume it's in the middle - 2900fps.

You have a 100m (or 100y) elevation zero. Run your favourite ballistics program (I like JBM online), with the best ballistics data you can get (there is "Litz" drag data for a 69 Sierra, so I'll use that).

JBM tells me that a 69MK(Litz)@2900fps will drop 18.1 MOA from a 100m zero. So come up 18MOA and fire one or more shots at a clean target at 600m.

But what if you're wrong? What if the m.v. is actually 2784fps? Well then the bullets will strike lower. Instead of the 20.0MOA you should have had on the gun for 2784fps m.v. you've only got 18MOA, so your bullets will group 2MOA below your point of aim. This is about a foot low.

Or, what if your m.v. is actually 3010fps? Well the bullets will strike higher. You have 18MOA up from 100 on your scope but you should have come up 16.5 MOA instead - so your group will hit about 1.5 MOA high (which at 600m is nine or ten inches).

If you have a clean 3'x3' (or even better 4'x4') piece of paper up at 600m, you should be able to catch all your shots. And once you see where they are actually landing, you can then back-estimate what the m.v. probably is.


If you want to make a first-round hit on the 6'x6' target board at 900m or 1000m, you need to know your m.v. You can do this with a chrono, or you can do this by firing at 600m, carefully measuring and correcting, and using your 600m results to guide you to putting on the correct elevation for your 900m or 1000m shot.
 
Chrony it is then. I will have to research which ones are worth buying.

Oehler 35P

The best for the money as far as I am concerned... two chronographs in one unit measures the bullet through two sets of screens... eliminates errors caused by bullet 'glint'.
 
After reading on some forums I've estimated by velocity to be 2900fps. I entered this number as well as the bullet info into "iSnipe" and got some rough estimates for a drop chart.

At 300m I found that the MOA input of 4.26 to be about 6 inches high. Doesn't matter, it got me on paper.

I then went to the 600m range to shoot at a really nice gong that someone build on the range. I entered the suggested 15.7 MOA of suggested elevation and found this to be much to high. After some trial and error, I found that it was actually one whole mildot too high on my scope. 600m through snow is a long walk so I was just happy to hear the "thunk" of the bullet hitting the gong.

The current scope on the rifle is only temporary until I put up a new one on Sunday or Monday and I will be using the "zero stop" to set myself up with a nice range card for targets at known distances. I will look into chronys for a more accurate chart when I get the chance. I'm happy to say that for now my load is a keeper. Despite shooting off a crooked ice covered bench at 300m I managed at least one 1/2MOA group using a crappy bipod.
 
Sterlok is also a decent one for the android and ios platforms and it allows you to store your 5 favorite loads amd rifles to quick refference them have not tried quickload will test that one once weather improves

Get the paid version and you can store way more loads and it includes way more reticles.

For velocity calculation you go into trajectory validation and you just plug in your distance you are shooting at (must be further than zero distance) then enter your elevation correction from real world and it takes the difference between that and and the calculated correction and figures out your real velocity.

Awesome program.
 
I'm sure others have replied similarly, so forgive me if it's already been stated.
I like to measure drops at 200 m distances out to 900 m, with a 100 m zero. This way I have a good amount of data points, vs. just measuring drop at 1 distance. Once your have all your drop data, plug in a sample MV into something like jbmballistics.com. Tweak the MV until the drops match what you saw in the field. Of course, ensure you note all other input data before you settle on a final MV.

I don't have a chronograph (I really should buy one) so I'm curious if there is any way to estimate muzzle velocity so that I punch it into iSnipe or whatever to help me get on target at know distances.

For example, my T3 Tac seems to like 69gr SMKs being fired with 26gr of Varget out of a 20" barrel.

A zero at 100m is easy but then to zero at 600m without a huge piece of paper would be nice.
 
I went to the range yesterday and fired 15 rounds at 300 yards or meters, not really sure. After a little research on the internet I guessed my muzzle velocity to be 2900fps and plugged it into some ballistic software that says my drop at 300 yards would be 13.85" or 12.82 (.1 milrad). The software and my guessed velocity were actually quite close to the mark. The actual drop between my 100yrd zero and 300yrd rounds on target was about 14".

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The fun part about the range trip was that I've learned that with a cheap bipod, a completely stock T3 Tactical, and a rear bag, I was getting 2" groups at 300yrds. I bet I could have done even better with a 24x scope or a scope with a thinner reticle. The Vortex PST is a FFP and the reticle is rather thick at 16x so it's not the best for precision work but I bought it to be "tactical" and for that end it will do just fine.
 
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