I recently acquired a double trigger hammerless Ithaca sxs 12 gauge. It has "smokeless powder steel" stamped on each barrel. It has a cross bar lock. Wondering what load would be safe for it. No way I'd try steel shot or goose loads. Just lead tap or skeet loads in 7.5 or 8. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Ithaca shotgun help
- Thread starter greg olmstead
- Start date
VERY INTERESTING ,,,,,,,,, as I just shot a round of Trap today with the very same thing ,,,,, a 1922 Ithaca Flues , which also says
"Smokeless powder Steel" . This is the 1st. time I have shot it . I also just fitted a new butstock to it . My best was 20 / 25 .
I am using a 1 oz. load with 16 gr. of 700 X . This is a very light trap load. It is recommended that this fine old gun not
be used with loads bigger than 1 oz & with more than 8,000. PSI loads . For Factory loads try , Winchester 1 oz.
Super Light or Win. Featherlight .
ninepointer
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- Central Ontario
Could be a Flues or a NID.
No it doesnt but I measured it at 2 3/4". The chokes are not removable. It not a full choke but I'm not sure if it's improved or modified.
Awesome thank you. I found a box of Winchester 7.5 1 1/8 oz 1200 fps loads I had for my 870 but they don't cycle in the 870. Would those be safe for it. The only other rounds I have are #4 buck 00 buck 000 buck and steel BB for waterfowl and slugs. I don't much care for shooting shotguns but I'd like to shoot this one for sentimental reasons.
There is no reason why you could not shoot 1 1/8 oz or 11/4 oz loads shot charge would not make any difference they had those loads back at that time . I would not go over the 8 psi chamber pressure. I shoot many vintage sxs’’s I just keep the pressure low . 7000-8000 max
There is a series of three videos on the net re: the Ithaca "Flues" model. The advice is NOT to shoot modern high pressure loads in them.
I have a nice "Flues" model with 30" barrels. I bought it for CAS but I consider it too nice a gun for that. I promised the seller that I would NOT butcher it by cutting down the barrels.
I checked the barrel flats and they are marked with what appears to be LLH on both barrels. What does that mean? The right barrel has the more open choke. Isn't that the opposite of what most SxS shotguns have? The bores do not seem to have been touched.
More recently I bought an Ithaca/SKB Model 100 SxS (F&M) off the EE. It has 28" barrels, extractors only. I'll use this in CAS and Trap, so the barrels will NOT be chopped. Always wanted a class SxS to shoot Trap with.
I have a nice "Flues" model with 30" barrels. I bought it for CAS but I consider it too nice a gun for that. I promised the seller that I would NOT butcher it by cutting down the barrels.
I checked the barrel flats and they are marked with what appears to be LLH on both barrels. What does that mean? The right barrel has the more open choke. Isn't that the opposite of what most SxS shotguns have? The bores do not seem to have been touched.
More recently I bought an Ithaca/SKB Model 100 SxS (F&M) off the EE. It has 28" barrels, extractors only. I'll use this in CAS and Trap, so the barrels will NOT be chopped. Always wanted a class SxS to shoot Trap with.
What do you /they class as a modern high pressure load is. It is not was Struff55 suggested IMO
Cheers
Normally all S x S shotguns have the more open choke on the RT. side & fired by the FT. trigger .
Back to LOADS / Pressure . Normally 1 1/8 & 11/4 oz. loads are over 8,000. psi . You need to find the PSI rating
of any load you shoot in older ( pre 1930's) shotguns to be sure it is RIGHT for that gun . Google up "Shooting" that gun .
You can shoot over pressure loads in any old gun for a while until the wood & other parts start to brake . Then too lait.
Be careful .
Thanks!
I shoot a SxS in CAS (28" Stoeger "Uplander"). It has choke tubes and I installed them so that The right barrel has the tighter choke, fired by the front trigger. This because we frequently shoot at steel targets that launch a clay vertically and I want the more open choke for that, fired by the rear trigger. Ergonomics wise, it makes sense to move your trigger finger from front to rear for the second shot.
From a hunting point of view, the opposite (as you describe) makes sense as the game is theoretically flying away after the first shot, so you need the tighter pattern for the second shot.
I shoot a SxS in CAS (28" Stoeger "Uplander"). It has choke tubes and I installed them so that The right barrel has the tighter choke, fired by the front trigger. This because we frequently shoot at steel targets that launch a clay vertically and I want the more open choke for that, fired by the rear trigger. Ergonomics wise, it makes sense to move your trigger finger from front to rear for the second shot.
From a hunting point of view, the opposite (as you describe) makes sense as the game is theoretically flying away after the first shot, so you need the tighter pattern for the second shot.
