I just picked a JR Carbine in 9mm today. I haven't had a chance to get it to the range yet. I Thought I would dip into the CGN knowledge base before I take it out and see if theirs any tips or gripes from other owners, as well as opinions on ammo preferences.
JR Carbine in 9mm
- Thread starter dvn00
- Start date
I've been working on getting mine broken in. It gives me random hammer-down stoppages where it chambers the round but the hammer doesn't lock back. Other than that it's a sweet gun, fun to shoot and pretty accurate.
My major gripe is the takedown procedure. It doesn't come with the combo wrench which I think ought to be mandatory kit, especially since the instructions tell you to take the gun apart before shooting it! Without a carbine stock wrench you need to tap the castle nut with a drift which marrs the finish; same with the handguard retaining ring though there's no real need to take that off for cleaning. Furthermore, being a blowback operated firearm it gets VERY dirty during normal fire so taking it apart is pretty much a necessity after each shooting session. I've also found that using a drift and hammer it is NOT possible to tighten the stock nut enough to prevent it from loosening under fire.
JR Carbines sells the tool for like $17 but for a simple hunk of steel I think it ought to have come with the gun (especially given it's not a $300 Keltec), or the gun should have been engineered to have a more user friendly takedown procedure. Other than that it's a good gun, my rant makes it seem worse than it is. It's essentially a non-restricted, less expensive, 9mm AR that uses cheap and easy to find mags; what's not to like?
My major gripe is the takedown procedure. It doesn't come with the combo wrench which I think ought to be mandatory kit, especially since the instructions tell you to take the gun apart before shooting it! Without a carbine stock wrench you need to tap the castle nut with a drift which marrs the finish; same with the handguard retaining ring though there's no real need to take that off for cleaning. Furthermore, being a blowback operated firearm it gets VERY dirty during normal fire so taking it apart is pretty much a necessity after each shooting session. I've also found that using a drift and hammer it is NOT possible to tighten the stock nut enough to prevent it from loosening under fire.
JR Carbines sells the tool for like $17 but for a simple hunk of steel I think it ought to have come with the gun (especially given it's not a $300 Keltec), or the gun should have been engineered to have a more user friendly takedown procedure. Other than that it's a good gun, my rant makes it seem worse than it is. It's essentially a non-restricted, less expensive, 9mm AR that uses cheap and easy to find mags; what's not to like?
I've been working on getting mine broken in. It gives me random hammer-down stoppages where it chambers the round but the hammer doesn't lock back. Other than that it's a sweet gun, fun to shoot and pretty accurate.
My major gripe is the takedown procedure. It doesn't come with the combo wrench which I think ought to be mandatory kit, especially since the instructions tell you to take the gun apart before shooting it! Without a carbine stock wrench you need to tap the castle nut with a drift which marrs the finish; same with the handguard retaining ring though there's no real need to take that off for cleaning. Furthermore, being a blowback operated firearm it gets VERY dirty during normal fire so taking it apart is pretty much a necessity after each shooting session. I've also found that using a drift and hammer it is NOT possible to tighten the stock nut enough to prevent it from loosening under fire.
JR Carbines sells the tool for like $17 but for a simple hunk of steel I think it ought to have come with the gun (especially given it's not a $300 Keltec), or the gun should have been engineered to have a more user friendly takedown procedure. Other than that it's a good gun, my rant makes it seem worse than it is. It's essentially a non-restricted, less expensive, 9mm AR that uses cheap and easy to find mags; what's not to like?
Hey thanks for the reply! Do you think an AR wrench would work for he breakdown? Also, I have the round barrel, but have seen some with the 'angled' barrel. Do you know if that's the first Generation of this firearm? I saw a couple YouTube Videos where every other round was a light primer strike, I'm wondering (hoping) thats an issue with first gens. Have you experienced this problem?
I'm new to ARs if my questions sound Noob
QuietWhisper
Regular
- Location
- Saskatchewan
Just curious, but what kind of ranges have you shot your 9mm carbine at and are you running an optic? I am wondering if 200yards is totally out of the question for a 9mm? What are you thoughts/opinions? Thanks alot eh!
QuietWhisper
Regular
- Location
- Saskatchewan
Im skeptical as well but Im trying to find someone who has tried for themselves...i know once I get a 9mm carbine it will be one of the first things I do.
I am using handloads in mine with two different bullets, 124 gr. roundnose lead (wheelweights) which I cast over 3.4 gr. of Alliant Promo and 115 gr. roundnose copper plated over 3.8 gr. of Alliant promo. The copper plated bullets have run flawlessly. I don't think I have ever had an FTF or FTE. The lead bullets are another matter and their performace has been very sporadic. I may go 10-20 rounds with no problems and then a jam. Then 4 rounds and a jam, etc. It's a little frustarating because the malfunctions are not consistent. I suspect it may be one of two things. Perhaps the softer lead bullets are deforming prior to chambering and leading to jamming although when I extract them they don't appear to be damaged to any degree. The other possibility (which I am leaning to) is that as is common practice I size the lead bullets .001" larger than the the copper plated bullets are (.356" vs. .355") and if the chamber is tight it may explain the inconsistent lead bullet feeding vs. the consistent copper plated bullet feeding. The brass is all from the same lot for both bullet types so I have discounted that as a factor.
As for optics I am using an older Bushnell Holosight than came on a handgun I bought a few years ago. It actually looks pretty good and considering that it has the same 1 MOA dot surrounded by the 65 MOA circle that the EOTechs use it is plenty accurate for the effective distance of the gun (I would say 150 yards) plus close-up work. I have also mounted a set of Yankee Hill Q.D.S. Same Plane Sight System flips ups:
http://yhm.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_3&products_id=4&zenid=ff78ca0eeadd4b96fd4f61bb5441e4cd
which co-witness nicely with the Holosight.
I also replaced the stupid 6 position fixed stock with a Magpul CTR.
The last two items I plan to address are to replace the carbine length FF handuards with a set of Yankee Hill Spectre length Diamond FF handguards:
http://yhm.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_4_45&products_id=48&zenid=161200d8306747e574e99d3819c7a0cb
which are about 2 1/2" longer than the JR factory HGs and should minimize the barrel-heavy look of the JR.
Lastly, if I can get my machinist buddy to do it I am going have him thread the muzzle and to install a reverse AR flashhider.
http://www.parallaxtactical.com/store/dpms-reverse-ar-15-5-5-223-flash-hider-896.html
again to minimize the long barrel look
As for removal of the stock for cleaning, etc. yes it is a PITA but any decent stock removal tool should do the trick. Get one that engages at least 3 notches in the the lock ring rather than the older style wrench which only engages one notch (or the single hole in the old-style lock ring).
As for optics I am using an older Bushnell Holosight than came on a handgun I bought a few years ago. It actually looks pretty good and considering that it has the same 1 MOA dot surrounded by the 65 MOA circle that the EOTechs use it is plenty accurate for the effective distance of the gun (I would say 150 yards) plus close-up work. I have also mounted a set of Yankee Hill Q.D.S. Same Plane Sight System flips ups:
http://yhm.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_3&products_id=4&zenid=ff78ca0eeadd4b96fd4f61bb5441e4cd
which co-witness nicely with the Holosight.
I also replaced the stupid 6 position fixed stock
with a Magpul CTR.The last two items I plan to address are to replace the carbine length FF handuards with a set of Yankee Hill Spectre length Diamond FF handguards:
http://yhm.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_4_45&products_id=48&zenid=161200d8306747e574e99d3819c7a0cb
which are about 2 1/2" longer than the JR factory HGs and should minimize the barrel-heavy look of the JR.
Lastly, if I can get my machinist buddy to do it I am going have him thread the muzzle and to install a reverse AR flashhider.
http://www.parallaxtactical.com/store/dpms-reverse-ar-15-5-5-223-flash-hider-896.html
again to minimize the long barrel look
As for removal of the stock for cleaning, etc. yes it is a PITA but any decent stock removal tool should do the trick. Get one that engages at least 3 notches in the the lock ring rather than the older style wrench which only engages one notch (or the single hole in the old-style lock ring).
I just picked up a 9mm JR carbine, and the handguard does leave a little to be desired. I remember reading somewhere in a thread on here that the handguard mount is a little different sized than a normal AR type and he had to fabricate a shim or something.
I wonder if I can find it again - a new handguard would totally change the look for the better.
PWONG - that's good info since I picked up 200 rnds of Remy UMC today And I'm shooting tomorrow (didn't make it out today).
For optics I'm running my EoTech 552 with a Vortex 3xMagnifiet. I love my EoTech and the Vortex Magnifier works great! All pillaged from my SR22.
Thanks Everbody for chiming in on this post!
I am using handloads in mine with two different bullets, 124 gr. roundnose lead (wheelweights) which I cast over 3.4 gr. of Alliant Promo and 115 gr. roundnose copper plated over 3.8 gr. of Alliant promo. The copper plated bullets have run flawlessly. I don't think I have ever had an FTF or FTE. The lead bullets are another matter and their performace has been very sporadic. I may go 10-20 rounds with no problems and then a jam. Then 4 rounds and a jam, etc. It's a little frustarating because the malfunctions are not consistent. I suspect it may be one of two things. Perhaps the softer lead bullets are deforming prior to chambering and leading to jamming although when I extract them they don't appear to be damaged to any degree. The other possibility (which I am leaning to) is that as is common practice I size the lead bullets .001" larger than the the copper plated bullets are (.356" vs. .355") and if the chamber is tight it may explain the inconsistent lead bullet feeding vs. the consistent copper plated bullet feeding. The brass is all from the same lot for both bullet types so I have discounted that as a factor.
As for optics I am using an older Bushnell Holosight than came on a handgun I bought a few years ago. It actually looks pretty good and considering that it has the same 1 MOA dot surrounded by the 65 MOA circle that the EOTechs use it is plenty accurate for the effective distance of the gun (I would say 150 yards) plus close-up work. I have also mounted a set of Yankee Hill Q.D.S. Same Plane Sight System flips ups:
http://yhm.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_3&products_id=4&zenid=ff78ca0eeadd4b96fd4f61bb5441e4cd
which co-witness nicely with the Holosight.
I also replaced the stupid 6 position fixed stock
The last two items I plan to address are to replace the carbine length FF handuards with a set of Yankee Hill Spectre length Diamond FF handguards:
http://yhm.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_4_45&products_id=48&zenid=161200d8306747e574e99d3819c7a0cb
which are about 2 1/2" longer than the JR factory HGs and should minimize the barrel-heavy look of the JR.
Lastly, if I can get my machinist buddy to do it I am going have him thread the muzzle and to install a reverse AR flashhider.
http://www.parallaxtactical.com/store/dpms-reverse-ar-15-5-5-223-flash-hider-896.html
again to minimize the long barrel look
As for removal of the stock for cleaning, etc. yes it is a PITA but any decent stock removal tool should do the trick. Get one that engages at least 3 notches in the the lock ring rather than the older style wrench which only engages one notch (or the single hole in the old-style lock ring).
So all the rounds your using are reloads?
just picked mine up from the post office yesterday.took her apart and cleaned. Easy enough to take apart too. So far its had about 200 rnds of ae 147gr and 50 rnds of some mixed plus p ammo. ran like a #### star, just kept hammering away. Im sure you will enjoy yours.
I have shot factory ammo with no problems but I use mainly reloads, purely for economic reasons.
