Jumping in....in over my head?

STR8 Shot

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Good afternoon gentle folk,

I am in the process of collecting bits and pieces to begin reloading .303 brit and possibly 7.62×39

Looking at the load charts I see many different choices of powders for any given bullet weight. How does one choose a specific powder?

Any help is greatly appreciated.
 
If I were starting from scratch, I'd find load data for what I'm looking to load, then cross reference that with cost and availability of components. Some powders are next to impossible to find, while others are (relatively) readily available.

As far as bullet selection, that all depends on what you're planning on doing. Hunting and target shooting necessitate very different projectiles. And if you plan on hunting, your bullet selection will vary depending on what you're planning on hunting, and from how far away.

Answers are going to be pretty broad until you let us know what you're planning on shooting.
 
Good afternoon gentle folk,

I am in the process of collecting bits and pieces to begin reloading .303 brit and possibly 7.62×39

Looking at the load charts I see many different choices of powders for any given bullet weight. How does one choose a specific powder?

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Is a good question - most powder and bullet makers publish books or recipes with loads that they tested to be at safe pressure levels - does not mean that all of their recipes are going to work equally in your rifle - your chamber and bore are different than the one they used, the lot of bullets, the lot of powder , the primers and probably the brass cases that you use are probably different to what they used. There is at least as many reasons why your results might be different than theirs, rather than the same - that leads to what works really well for one guy, may not work well for you.

These days, is almost about what can you find to use - powder, primers, etc. So far as I know, most brass and most bullets relatively easy (still) to find some - in some areas, not so for powder or primers - so it might occur that you have no choice about what you use?

Some years ago, I received a 22-250 - was not sure what powder to try with 53 grain bullets that I had on hand - a correspondent advised he had very good results in his 22-250 using IMR 3031 powder, and same bullet weight - so I got some. Turned out to also be the powder recommendation from another person to try to reproduce 30-06 loads from 1906 - not nearly the same as used today. Is really up to you to "work up" what particular amount works best (and safely) in your rifle, using your components - what someone else uses might give you a clue where to start - but I do not like to use any one else's recipe, without "working up" to that level. What I found is that many "Start" loads function just fine for me. If performance from 30-06 not adequate, then get a 300 Wby or whatever - but, sooner or later you will find a combination that suits your needs.

I notice that some reloading manuals like Lyman, Nosler or from Sierra will indicate what they consider the "best" or "most accurate" powder that they tested, but numerous other manuals do not indicate that. And their results may not apply to you or your stuff. Is a place to start, though.

Correctly or not - it has been my past practice to start with selecting the bullet weight that the thing was designed for originally. Your 303 British probably used 174 grain in service, at 2440 fps plus or minus 40 fps - although the very originals used 215 grain. But I notice most commercially loaded ammo for 303 British is 150 grain or 180 grain - it likely all will "work". Your 7.62x39 probably used 123 grain in service, at circa 2,300 or 2,400 fps - my latest batch is 150 grain bullets to try - to be seen if they will "fit" into my chamber and what kind of groups that I get when I try that - whatever was "original" is likely a "good enough" place to start, although there will be some variation.

Then, velocity - in an extreme - seems to be a desire among some to "push limits" - for example, to "load up" a 45-70 to be like a 458 Win Mag, or a 30-06 to be like a 300 Win Mag. I have done so myself. But, also I probably got that "back asswards" - I got a 458 Win Mag rifle and load it DOWN to 45-70 levels. The price of the rifles is not much different. As I have got older (I am 68), I see less and less need to "push limits" - if your 7.62x39 is not enough, get a 308 Win. Or a 30-06. Or a 300 Win Mag. Or a 300 Weatherby Mag. And so on.

Velocity - is a typical North American thing to think "faster" is "better" - I would guess with premium bullets, etc. that might have some truth to it. However, I notice European and Africa old-school guys always mention "too fast" - is likely they were using NOT PREMIUM (read: cheapest) bullets when hunting game. Typically those guys were concerned about the bullet's penetration - its performance AFTER impact - where as most target shooters are concerned about performance between the muzzle and the paper target - in other words, BEFORE impact. And, there was a quote that I read from old school bench rest shooter Speedy Gonzales - he apparently said or wrote that he did not care how fast the bullet was going, as it went through the same hole as the last bullet did. Sort of up to you what is most important to you - I have not had much luck to get maximum velocity and smallest groups from the same load/rifle - other's experience will vary from that.
 
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Everything below really depends on what you can find, afford... right now, there is a massive shortage of many desired items


for powder, generally 2 groups... temp and not temp stable. If you want lowest powder price, you get ball powder which is generally not temp stable ie effective load pressures change as temps rise and fall. If the ammo/rifle needs a narrow range of powder to shoot best, you have to change the powder charge when facing large temp swings (10C). H335 is likely your best option right now.

temp stable powders don't have this problem over a wide range of temps (30C).. hodgdon extreme family is the most popular. Varget is likely your best option right now. This stuff may cost double ball powders.

Primers, any large rifle primer is a good primer right now

For bullets, you need to know the bore diameter of your barrel... if unsure, you should test 0.311" and 0.312" diameter bullets (1 box each) in similar weight. If bore is bigger then bullet, accuracy will be terrible. 150gr to 174gr is most common.

Once the brass has been fired in your rifle (fireformed), I would suggest using a Lee collet neck die to only neck size the brass. Keep pressures very moderate (action can be springy). Use powder charges as close to the 'start' loads as possible (use data from prominent loading companies). When cases get fat to chamber, throw them away and start again with new cases. If you keep pressures to the liking of your action, you should have no issue loading 6 to 8 times before cases grow enough to be a problem.

Good luck with your journey

Jerry
 
Picking a specific powder can be done in a few ways. My buddy picked his powder based on charge size - he picked a powder that had a relatively small charge so 1lb of powder would go further - 45ish gr vs some powders were up to 55ish gr. I picked my powders based on reading what other people were using - for example, IMR4350, H4350, and H4831 are all very popular with 270Winchester, so I bought IMR4350 of those based on price and availability. IMR4350 shot real good in my rifle, so I stuck with it, but if it didn't I would have tried out something else.

I want to say BCL-2 is a very popular powder for 303brit, so I'd start with that personally.

There is no one perfect way to pick your powder. It is not uncommon for people to try multiple powders in a single rifle to see which one their rifle likes. For many, this is part of what makes reloading so much fun, you get to experiment until you find the perfect combo for your particular rifle.
 
STRB: .303 can pose some problems when reloading. First thing NOT to do, is full length size cases, once fired in your rifle's chamber. As Mysticprecision advises. Instead, only size the necks. The Lee collet die is likely the easiest way to accomplish this. You can also adjust your case sizing die, to some degree.

Here's a good online resource, which should help you choose the right powder(Or available powder): Hodgdon Reloading Data Center.

If you can find IMR 3031, this is a good powder for .303. Likewise: Varget. Both useful in a variety of other caliber cartridges, too.
 
If I were starting from scratch, I'd find load data for what I'm looking to load, then cross reference that with cost and availability of components. Some powders are next to impossible to find, while others are (relatively) readily available.

As far as bullet selection, that all depends on what you're planning on doing. Hunting and target shooting necessitate very different projectiles. And if you plan on hunting, your bullet selection will vary depending on what you're planning on hunting, and from how far away.

Answers are going to be pretty broad until you let us know what you're planning on shooting.

Thanks for the reply.

I plan to mostly hunt deer within 250 yards, so not a huge distance. Probably looking between 150 and 180 grain bullet weight.

My confusion lies with the number of choices of powder. Looking closer (150 grain chart) I see that I am given the velocity for the different powders - do I just choose based on desired velocity?

Example, I see Accur 2520, 4064, 2460, 2495, etc. And thats just one brand.....
 
Thanks for the reply.

I plan to mostly hunt deer within 250 yards, so not a huge distance. Probably looking between 150 and 180 grain bullet weight.

My confusion lies with the number of choices of powder. Looking closer (150 grain chart) I see that I am given the velocity for the different powders - do I just choose based on desired velocity?

Example, I see Accur 2520, 4064, 2460, 2495, etc. And thats just one brand.....

The powders listed will give you a variety of velocities, but they'll mostly be within in a certain range. Looking at Hodgdon's data for 150gr bullets, everything is 26xx-27xx FPS with a max load, with a few exceptions that are down in the 2500s.

You can certainly use velocity as one factor to choose your powder, but I wouldn't use velocity alone as the only factor. Cost and availability are important factors to consider as well, temperature stability can also be important especially if you do load development in the summer but hunt late fall... I'm sure I'm missing other factors worth considering too...
 
IMR 3031 works great with any bullet weight that you choose.
It is readily available and reasonably cheap. It works well in a lot of different calibers.
You will get ~125 rounds out of a pound of powder for .303 British.
In Ontario, there are a few places that have stock currently.
Post your location and I can tell you the closest supplier
 
Thanks for the reply.

I plan to mostly hunt deer within 250 yards, so not a huge distance. Probably looking between 150 and 180 grain bullet weight.

My confusion lies with the number of choices of powder. Looking closer (150 grain chart) I see that I am given the velocity for the different powders - do I just choose based on desired velocity?

Example, I see Accur 2520, 4064, 2460, 2495, etc. And thats just one brand.....

First step, I would say is to see what powders are readily available in your area. No sense picking a powder thats hard to find or very expensive. I cast 155 grain for my 7.62x39 and use IMR3031, a good all around powder. One of the first I ever bought and will do decent in a lot of calibers. Even 303 with the same bullet can use 3031.

Might not get you competition groups, but should get you a deer or bear.

Edit...

Ha, just read the above...
 
Potashminer, Suther, Mysticprecision, Joe, Yomamma, and anyone else I missed, very big thanks for your time to reply. You all have given me considerable information to start with.

As I gather more components, I'll post asking more questions....that I am sure of :D
 
I would cross check between x39 and .303 load data and see if there are a couple powders that are listed for both and then see what you find in stock at stores/suppliers, right now powder and primer availability or prices for components will be the hardest pill to swallow.
 
What all supplies do you still need to get going? Just the bullet, powder combination information?

I have used N540 with good accuracy, and varget. Varget is easier to find right now and generally cheaper, so I currently use it. These I use with LR magnum primers, as I have a better supply of them right now with the shortages of primers.

Depends really in the end with how much shooting you intend to do as well with the rifles, to first see if you will be saving any in the end. Me, I shoot WAY to much almost every week with my rifles at the range, so I save a huge amount over factory ammo. The 303 ammo you can get for $36 per box of 20, so you need to factor in how much you may actually shoot. Will be a while before you start to recoup your initial start up costs with equipment and components if you don't shoot a whole lot. Not trying to dissuade you from reloading, but just to be realistic of actual overall costs.

303 brass, new about $1.08, tips= $0.64, powder = $0.44, primer = $0.25. Roughly 10 firings of the brass, on average so true cost will be $0.11 per load. So your $1.44 per load before you factor in taxes and shipping, and your actual gear to reload with, press, dies, even before you factor in you time. You buy factory ammo @ $1.80 per round and reload for $1.44 plus your gear, so you can quickly see how feasible this may be.

Me I reload as a hobby, as that to me is quiet time, to keep busy, and I shoot a lot, plus reload for 7 calibers right now, so I get to see savings, plus time well spent for me anyways hunting and shooting. Plus there is a satisfaction factor in there for your home made ammo and plus accuracy when shooting, at least for me anyways. I am now into year 3 reloading on my own, and enjoy it tremendously.
 
You folks are awesome, no matter what anyone else says about ya :)

I'm still quite a ways from pulling on a lever and just sorting out things I don't quite understand. You all have been a great help so far.

Because I'm just starting, I have the leisure to wait for good deals and/or stock to become available. I am thankful to be apart of such a great group of people.

Thanks to all
 
Since you are at the beginning start watching you tube channels on reloading.

I know there are lots of good ones, but Ultimate reloader comes up as top tier. He does a bunch of ones on the gear as well. Great to watch and learn.
 
Not to put more on your plate but for me, accuracy is more important than velocity. The deer can't really tell a couple hundred f/s from a .303, but it sure will notice if you don't hit him. The old saying, "you can't miss fast enough. for my Brit I will use IMR-4064 (but it is hard to come by right now) with IMR-3031 and Varget as close seconds.
 
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