Just getting into 38spl/357mag + 9mm reloading

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TO Papa

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Hi all,

I'm looking at getting a single stage press for reloading 38spl, 357mag and 9mm. I did some research but have some questions.

1) I've heard Unique powder can be used for all 3, what are your experiences with it? Is it dirty? Does it provide good accuracy overall?

2) I've heard Trail Boss is popular for revolvers, but from what I've seen the muzzle velocities are on average about 300fps less than other standard loads with other powders. What gives? Will this affect my accuracy, or cause any bullets to stick in my 6" barrel? (99% sure the answer is no) Or will it just make less of a bang and give less of an adrenaline rush?

3) Nosler has recommendations for powder and projectiles and maximum accuracy. Are they a reliable source or should I stick with Lee or Hornady's reloading manuals?

4) I intend to wash my brass with LSD, resize my brass and crimp the ammo. I've heard people say one or more of these steps can be skipped or ignored. Thoughts?

5) What are the benefits of using anything other than small pistol primers for all 3 loads? I haven't even heard of people using magnum primers, although I'm assuming that's what they're for.

6) Projectiles: Which weights are usually best to start? Anything in the mid-range in terms of weight? What are the benefits of using wadcutters, semi wadcutters over jacketed?

7) I've been told a 357mag die set can be used to reload 38spl. Can anyone confirm?

8) How can I disassemble ammo safely??

Thanks!
 
1) Unique can be used for all 3, but I think you'll find that half the fun of reloading is finding the right load for each gun. I use Titegroup or CFE Pistol for 9mm, SWF for .40S&W, and Alliant 2400 for my .357.
2) I've never use Trail Boss so I can;t speak to this, but I suspect it is used for Cowboy Action precisely because of the lower pressures and better handling.
3) I have a lee and a Lyman manual and have never found the need for anything else. Nosler and the like tend to restrict themselves to their own line of projectiles and I find that limiting.
4) I haven't used LSD since the early 70's, and never to wash brass. I would not skip any of the steps you mentioned since clean brass functions better in a press, unresized brass will have feeding issues, and a crimp is essential in all three rounds (taper for 9mm and roll for .38 Spec and .357)
5) Magnum primers are "hotter" and better for use in the longer magnum ctgs due to better ignition. Not to say that small pistol wouldn't work, it certainly may. But best to stick to the "book" version when starting out.
6) Start with a midrange weight like 124 for 9mm and 140 or 158 for 38 Spec/.357. Easily found and relatively cheap. Lead will shoot "dirtier" (smokier to to burning of alox) than jacketed, is cheaper, but will generally foul the barrel more than plated or jacketed. If you are shooting inside, you'll want to stick with plated or jacketed. Wadcutters, semis, just make a neater hole in the target.
7) Most dies sets are made for both since the difference is in the length. The diameter is exactly the same.
9) Use a kinetic bullet puller such as those from Frankford Arsenal or RCBS. For rifle I use an RCBS collet type puller with the appropriate collet.

Hope that helps. Fire away with more questions as they come up!
 
1. Unique works quite nicely in 9mm and 45acp, but it is not great for 357 mag. Unfortunately there hasn't been any Unique around for a few years. Almost impossible to find.
2. Trail Boss is made for reduced velocity loads.
3. OF COURSE Nosler is reliable.
4. try it and then use your own judgement. You need to resize every time you load. Washing it is not necessary but sizing is.
5. Might be some advantage to mag primers for the 357 IF hyou are using one of the slower powders. Otherwise no advantage at all.
6. Bullet weights are your choice - look at the data, then look and see what is available.
7. sometimes. But not necessarily.
9. use a bullet puller.
 
I use CFE pistol/ tightgroup / VN 340 for all three. Small pistol primers are fine. I use just enough crimp to remove the bell and have no issues with either of the three you mention. 158 g Campro plated bullits are great for 357/38. And 115/124 g for the 9 mm with 124 g being my most accurate. My rcbs die does 357 and 38 , you have to use a spacer for 357 ,which comes with the dies. And I have a bullit puller that screws into my press. It works really well.
 
TO Papa said:
Lol.

Is Alliant 2400 good for preventing double charges?
It sounds to me like magnum primers then might be better for slower burning, bulkier powders. Am I right?
Click to expand...

Alliant 2400 would not be very well suited for the 9mm but would work somewhat in 357. It's more of a rifle powder or large volume pistol cases. Mag primers aren't needed in these small case volumes but probably won't hurt anything either. Try not to sweat that bit
 
If you only use one powder for 9mm, for 357 and for 38Spl:

Titegroup if you are laoding for accuracy and not trying to get max velocity.

PowerPistol (or N330) if you want to load both medium and full power.

98% of my ammo is made for accuracy and I use jugs of TiteGroup.

I use DRG bullets (made in Guelph). They cost about $32/500 for cast lead bullets. The lubricant on them makes smoke, but they do not lead my barrels.

For 9mm I find the 135 gr works better than other weights. I use 3.3 o 3.9 of TiteGroup. Most guns are best with 3.5gr.

For 38Spl, the 158 lead SWC works well. Guns like 4.5 to 5.0 of TG. Just a little roll crimp.

For 357Mag, the 158 lead SWC also works well. Guns like 6.0 of TG. A solid roll crimp to prevent the bullet from backing out on recoil.

I started on a single stage press, loading 9mm and 38SPl. It is not too slow if you load a bucket of brass at a time. Size a bucket. Then bell a bucket. Then powder charge and seat a bullet. You need a good powder thrower.

I always prime a bucket at a time (still do) using a Lee AutoPrime.
 
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TO Papa said:
Is Alliant 2400 good for preventing double charges?
It sounds to me like magnum primers then might be better for slower burning, bulkier powders. Am I right?
Click to expand...

Yes, You are using over 14 grains under a 158 SWC so a double charge is obvious (always double check though). Magnum primers are better for slow burning powders but also help with more complete ignition with higher volume magnum cartridges. In addition they are a little tougher than small pistol and can take higher cup pressures than sp. I use a magnum primer in my .357 loads exclusively. I'd probably do the same if I was loading .38 spec to +P or +P+ charge weights.
 
Lawrys just outside of Caledonia has a quantity of Alliant's PROMO powder. You must buy 8 pounds, however, all taxes in, it's about C$26.00 a pound. Promo loads just like RedDot.

All of the calibers you mentioned you wish to load will work great with Promo. Low charge weight, very energetic, and8 pounds goes a long way...
 
3) You can never have too many reloading manuals..... The bullet manufacturers' version will only include loads for bullets they make, while the Lyman and Lee list anybody's (almost. The powder manufacturers' data will sometimes mention a specific bullet, but many (of similar construction) can be substituted for another brand.

4) For the 38 and 357 (revolver, I presume), loads should be crimped. Some heavier loads (certain powders in 357 Mag) benefit from a healthy crimp, while light 38 spl loads can get by with less. The 9mm headspaces on the case mouth, so you want to crimp just enough to get rid of any case mouth flare.

5) I've only used small pistol magnum primers for one load in the 357 Mag. Most of the time I use normal small pistol primers. The 9mm also uses small pistol primers. Need need for magnum primers here.

6) Wadcutters cut nice clean holes in paper - just like a paper punch. Semi-wadcutters typically have a truncated cone nose, with a shoulder for a cleaner hole than a round nose. The clean holes make for easier scoring.... Jacketed bullets are more expensive, but will stand up to magnum velocities. Lead bullets (and copper plated) are typically loaded to lower muzzle velocities. The plated ones can be pushed a bit faster than lead, but not up to magnum levels.

I use 148 gr wadcutters and 158 gr semi-wadcutters in 38 spl loads, jacketed 125 and 158 grain bullets for the 357 Mag, and I tend to 120-125 grain bullets (jacketed, cast lead or plated) in the 9mm. I find the recoil with the 9mm is not as snappy with the 125 grain bullets vs. the 115 grain. A good starting point is your favourite factory ammo.

7) The other way around. You need a crimping die with the crimp shoulder lower for 38 spl. To load 357 magnum, just adjust the seat/crimp die higher up, away from the shell holder, and adjust for the right seating depth. As was mentioned earlier, the diameter of the case and the bullet are the same between the 38 spl and 357 mag. The 9mm is another critter altogether.

8) A bullet puller.... Either a collet type (works with your press) or a kinetic puller (looks and works like a hammer). The collet type will not easily pull wadcutter type bullets.

You've asked a lot of questions in one go, so take the time to digest all the answers....
Don't be afraid to ask more. This is the place to ask!
 
2400 is a great powder for proper Magnum loads. And when I've used it there was no need for a magnum primer. If you find some H110 or W296 on the other hand magnum primers can aid on getting a consistent ignition with that hard to set off powder and probably give you more accuracy through the consistent burn pressure that occurs with a magnum primer.

Neither is a good powder for small charges though. You want to stick to the more classic powders for those.

Titegroup and Bullseye work well from max charges right on down to mouse fart like soft charges that are actually quite a lot less than the loading manuals recomend. Titegroup in particular is noted in Hodgdon's Cowboy Action load data which extends down to lower amounts than listed in their regular manual.

A lot of the hot and fast powders like Titegroup and Bullseye result in a small dusting of powder in the case. 3.6gns of Titegroup in the bottom of a .38Spl looks like a drop in the bucket. So care WILL be needed to ensure you don't produce a double charge. And if loading on a single stage that implies using a flashlight and not only checking that powder is down there but that it's roughly the same height as the cases around it. THEN proceed to seating the bullets. Although the powder depth is pretty small a double charge is different enough that it's pretty easy to see.

In 9mm casings it's VERY easy to see. As in there's almost not enough room for the bullet. But again this implies that you inspect the powder levels to see that you didn't get a double or miss a casing.

In any event at the present time it's a case of beggars can't be choosers. There's not a whole lot of powders out there on the store shelves. It's not as bad as it was about a year ago but it's still a case of buying what they have and not what you'd always like to have. So stay flexible.

There's more than just Unique which would be OK for loading the whole list. Check the loading manuals and make up a list and carry it around of powders that are listed for all three calibers. Then you'll be ready to buy when you find any of them.
 
As mentioned above, GET A BULLET PULLER.
As a relatively new reloader (only about 2000 rounds so far), I can tell you that the puller will definitely see some use!
The first time you whack the crap out of it with a loaded round is definitely a 'sphincter tightening' moment, but it works.
 
get a collet puller. Especially when you are first setting up your dies, you are going to accumulate a lot of rounds to dis-assemble. Even now, I get the occasional round that fails chamber gauge check, or maybe a sideways primer. The puller was ~$35 and ~$15 for the collet for each caliber. I save up a batch, and it takes no time at all to pull apart each round. No damage to the bullet so I can reuse that, but I usually just toss the powder as I experimented with a couple of different types.

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