Just getting into reloading?

Went to the range. I couldn't tell any difference from factory .38s and my middle of the range .38s+P rounds. I switched over to 9mm and the wheels fell off. I tried three times 6 shots and got 2/6 rounds to light off each time(in the same 2 cylinders of the revolver each time I think). Problem was the rounds went in too deep in the Ruger Convertable 9mm/.38/.357 Mag. There was a very light firing pin strike on 4/6 rounds. I tried factory 9mm and no problems, they didn't go so far into the wheel. For the hell of it I tried 6 rounds in my BHP 9mm and was able to fire off 3 of the FTF reloaded rounds and 3 of the untried reloads. So the BHP fired the reloads no issues at all.

I'm going to do a little more research on the cylinder sizes of the Ruger and the size of the reloads vs factory rounds as well.

Was a little cold out so I didn't stay at the range all that long.

As far as the members reply regarding how long it takes to reload vs my free time and it's value. For the price of 9mm I don't think it is worth my time to reload if I can buy the 9mm at $11/box. The .38 and .357 is more in line value wise as is the .44 Mag and .45 ACP as these rounds cost a lot more. I am new to reloading and for example test the weight of the power charge maybe 5 times for 50 rounds. I measure the empty brass length and measure the completed bullets lenght most shells. I am careful doing the reloads and do not rush. Even if I tried to be fast it still takes a fair chunk of time doing it right. If you value the exercise as a hobby and it is time away from the old woman than it is an excellent value, any time away from my wife is a good value!

JimmieA.
 
For the price of 9mm I don't think it is worth my time to reload if I can buy the 9mm at $11/box
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Depends how much you shoot. If you do 1000 rounds/week, it's worth it.

45 ACP as these rounds cost a lot more
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9mm once fired brass: 6c/100
.45 ACP one fired brass: 11c/100

9mm 125 LRN : $40/500
.45 ACP LRN: $52/500

9mm powder: 3.8 gr
.45 ACP powder: 4.8 gr

Primers, almost identical.

There's really not much in it.
 
To buy factory .45 ACP or .44 Mag bullets is a lot more than reloading your own. Where I live it is about $40 box for .45 and maybe $50 for the .44mag. The place I got this price is 3 hours away for me as well but possible the cheapest source local to me. What ever the cost I intend to reload as I have all the #### to do it now and it does sorta work for me except in the 9mm Convertable.

JimmieA.
 
I just did some checking. My reloads I crimped the brass at the tip of the brass and it measures 9.51mm where new Winchester rounds that I have have no crimp and measure 9.56mm. The 9mm round is slightly tapered and the Convertable cylinder uses this taper to make the gun work. My crimp at the end is enough to let the round slip into the cylinder too much and gets a light hammer strike. So I have set the die too deep and crimped the end of the brass. That is my conclusion Watson! One of the cylinders in the Convertable wheel is slightly smaller than the others at the very end of the brass but not something that I could measure except with a bullet that was tight or not tight. Also this is after firing the gun so it could be a little dirty. The reloads seem to be dirtier than factory loads, leaving power residual.

JimmieA.
 
The reloads seem to be dirtier than factory loads
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Haven't read the entire thread, but if you're using lead bullets then there will be more smoke and dirt because of the wax and the lead.

This is normal. If it's too much of an issue, switch to copper plated.
 
Nothing brings out more flamethrowers than crimping auto cartridges.

For cartridges that headspace on the forward edge of the casing (9x19 and .45 ACP are great examples), the term 'taper crimp' keeps coming up. In other rounds, a crimp serves to keep the bullet in place. Not so in these ones. The bullet should be firm and unmovable before the taper crimp is applied. The taper crimp in reality just serves to take out the belling of the case mouth deliberately put in so as to allow the bullet to be inserted without problems.

The secret to loose bullets in such rounds therefore is to ensure your sizing die reduces the diameter enough in the first place.
 
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