Just got an Armco Norc 1911

BuddyHollyDied

BuddyHollyDied

BANNED
BANNED
BANNED
EE Expired
Rating - 100%
9   0   0
Location
Saskatchewan
Well I had to see what one was like so I ordered one in .45 with the Armco touch and what a buy it is. Well worth the extra few bucks to have Gunnar go through it, shot 200 rounds through it with no problems what so ever.

I butchered it up good though, polished off the blueing on the sides to give it the eclipse look, turned out not bad, put a red dot sight and mount on it along with a compensator, match trigger, hammer, STI beaver tail and rosewood grips.

I really like it cause I am not scared of drilling holes or hammering on it when I need to on a 400 dollar gun.

An STI it ain't, but worth the money to hack up.:eek: :D
 
Last edited:
Here is some pics, they don't really show the polished sides very well but it looks better in person.

IMGP1454.jpg


IMGP1452.jpg


IMGP1456.jpg
 
Last edited:
what are you using to protect the finish now that you've polished the slide?
 
I am not using anything to protect the finish. I have polished black steel to a high sheen before when playing around making knives. Some of these knives have been laying around for 5 years without a spec of rust on them yet.

If the gun does start to rust I'll just polish it again. For the 20 minutes it takes to polish I could do it every couple months if I had to....but I don't think I'll have to.

Also I can polish out any scratches on the gun as I need to.
 
It actually works not bad, better than I thought. I would say it gets rid of about 50 % of the recoil.

A good barrel comp gets rid of probably 90 to 95% recoil, sometimes better than that.

But it was cheap so I like it.
 
Last edited:
Slavex said:
what are you using to protect the finish now that you've polished the slide?
Click to expand...
Bluing isn't a rust preventative.......blued steel will rust just as fast as "in the white" if you don't have any oil on it.
 
BuddyHollyDied wrote:
It actually works not bad, better than I thought. I would say it gets rid of about 50 % of the recoil.

A good barrel comp gets rid of probably 90 to 95% recoil, sometimes better than that.

But it was cheap so I like it.
Click to expand...

Plus you bought it off an ultra cool guy.;)

Dave
 
Oh I don't know, I suppose around $ 750 to 800. I started with an Armco prepped gun at $449, some pieces and parts I had, some I bought new, some used.

It was just a project gun, I started with a Norinco cause I didn't want to mess up my STI's. The biggest reason I guess was to polish the sides and make an Eclipse looking gun, to see if I could do it and if it would turn out - it did.

I don't use it for competition, its just a plinker.

Just a note on the polishing......the polishing of any steel is essentially a rust prohibitor in itself. Bare metal in the rough will attract and capture moisture, when you polish metal to a high sheen it eliminates alot of the porousness of the metal so the moisture cannot penetrate the metal - thus no rust.

Polish anything and pour water on it and you will see the water bead off, leave it natural and the water sits on it.....this is simplified but the same principle.
 
Last edited:
BuddyHollyDied said:
Polish anything and pour water on it and you will see the water bead off, leave it natural and the water sits on it.....this is simplified but the same principle.
Click to expand...

any special compounds to use when doing something like that or can I just use a buffing wheel and the abrasives that come with it (machine shop wheel not a car polisher)
 
The black bar is for rough work, stripping etc, there is also a red bar that is for intermediate polishing and the white bar is for the final finish fine polish. At least I think thats how it works.

Anyway I used the black bar on this gun cause its what I had, on an 8" polish wheel on the bench grinder. The kind that is a bunch of layers of cloth sewn together.

I couldn't find my white bar at the time so thats where I stopped, one day I'll put a fine polish on it.....maybe.

There are many polishes out there designed for different metals, stainless, aluminum, brass etc, but I use the black and white for everything and it seems to work just fine. Theres probably 10 different color/abrasive levels but these are the main three. They say you are supposed to change the wheel everytime you change polish courseness but I don't.

I don't know much about it, I just load up the wheel with whatever bar is around and make ####e shiney.
 
I did this Para slide years ago. Started with 600g wet dry sandpaper, worked up to 1500g then poished with a speed buffer & buffing creme.

Not the greatest for shooting in midday sun though. I bead blasted it shortly after.:redface:

Dave

IM000068.jpg



IM000063.jpg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom