Just right Carbine in .40 Smith and Wesson FTF issues

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Xterra282

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Went to the range today wanting to put some rounds down with my Just Right in .40 S&W. fired the first mag and only had 2 FTF( no primer strike. I think round 3 and 7). Throw in another mag and 10/10 were FTF with no primer strikes.( or it was so lite it didn’t even mark the primer).

Took it home and tore into the rifle and the firing pin appears in good condition to the naked eye( no micrometer) only thing I noticed is the return spring was on backwards. Could this be the cause of the FTF?
 
Plus every time I squeeze the trigger the mechanisms works. The firing pin just doesn’t hit the primer or if it does it doesn’t hit hard enough to mark the primer
 
In the JR carbine the firing pin , has a slap type fire pin setup, where as the hammer hits the firing pin, it slaps the firing pin forward, hitting the prime....for a better lack of words...not like a traditional type firing pin setup, where as the pin is hit and held forward , by the hammer, on the primer. They will tell you at JR that it is a safety thing.
Did you do a caliber change on your rifle, if so that might have changed the distance of the firing pin to hammer to primer.In a normal type firing pin setup you can measure the protrusion of the end of the firing pin...its hard to do on a JR. You can take the spring out and see how far it stick out the front of the bolt face. I do know, that at one time , they had a problem ,with the ends breaking off. But one phone to JR in the USA will net you a new firing pin...if that is what’s wrong. Most of the time at no cost to you! Also one call to them , and they can tell you anything and everything about the firing pin...and anything else about your rifle. great people to deal with, always had great service.
I’ve had mine for about 5 years...1000’s of rounds, and other then the charging handle coming loss ( my fault) I put a longer stock on it causing the bolt to cycle too far back. And separating the head and body of a couple of rounds...again my fault...I think the brass was on reload #5...or maybe 6 lol. They will tell you not to shot reloads in it, but I think that is about all mine has ever have, except for maybe , the first couple of boxes of store bought.
Hope this help.
Cheers
Brian
 
quinnbrian said:
In the JR carbine the firing pin , has a slap type fire pin setup, where as the hammer hits the firing pin, it slaps the firing pin forward, hitting the prime....for a better lack of words...not like a traditional type firing pin setup, where as the pin is hit and held forward , by the hammer, on the primer. They will tell you at JR that it is a safety thing.
Did you do a caliber change on your rifle, if so that might have changed the distance of the firing pin to hammer to primer.In a normal type firing pin setup you can measure the protrusion of the end of the firing pin...its hard to do on a JR. You can take the spring out and see how far it stick out the front of the bolt face. I do know, that at one time , they had a problem ,with the ends breaking off. But one phone to JR in the USA will net you a new firing pin...if that is what’s wrong. Most of the time at no cost to you! Also one call to them , and they can tell you anything and everything about the firing pin...and anything else about your rifle. great people to deal with, always had great service.
I’ve had mine for about 5 years...1000’s of rounds, and other then the charging handle coming loss ( my fault) I put a longer stock on it causing the bolt to cycle too far back. And separating the head and body of a couple of rounds...again my fault...I think the brass was on reload #5...or maybe 6 lol. They will tell you not to shot reloads in it, but I think that is about all mine has ever have, except for maybe , the first couple of boxes of store bought.
Hope this help.
Cheers
Brian
Click to expand...

Hey Brian

thanks for the info.

No there has been no change in caliber, but I think you might of helped me figure out what is wrong. when I was looking over the bolt this afternoon I wasn't able to remove the firing pin retainer from the firing pin. your explanation made the function of this rifle clear to me now. need to break out my rifle again
 
So just to follow up with this. I got the issue sorted out. Thanks to @quinnbrian, breaking down how the firing pin works on the JRC, I noticed when I tore it down that the firing pin and the firing pin retainer were very hard to separate. Upon a second look after Briann posted the info i noticed that the firing pin retainer was starting to deform a bit and that the hole where the firing pin floats out wasn’t quite the same diameter as the firing pin ( made obvious by the small scrapes when forcefully removing the firing pin). So after breaking out some jewels files and a couple quick passes, the firing pin floated properly now as well as I was able to fire 150 rounds at the range today with not a single issue. Going to be ordering a new firing pin retainer, firing pin, and spring ( might as well order some replacements while I am at it )

Just want to extent a thanks again to Brian for the help.
 
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