K-31 Diopter-ology

BillD

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Recently acquired a diopter set for my K31; would appreciate any input re their type & install/setup/usage. My google-fu is often lacking, so useful links appreciated also!

NelwMTV.jpg

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https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/the...ageboard/how-to-sight-in-a-diopter-t3674.html

Sights Manual translated to English:
http://www.swissrifles.com/sr/sights/manual/index.html

With a cleaned K31 barrel, it will like take some shots to settle-in. Follow the instructions in the above link.
Understand how the the adjustment are by where the bullet impacted with the Germanic Sights (bei).

The 1970's Gehmann K31 Iris uses a rubberish-plastic collar instead of the usual drill aperture disc that come as stock on the W&F diopters.
I have a fair number of them that hardly move anymore. Test your iris before getting to the range. Not sure what system the G&E irises use.
I'll post some pictures when I can get to my desktop.
 
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Thanks for the links folks! Have found a few more too for watching/reading - never used a diopter of any kind before so I'm starting from scratch right down to the concept of how these work, which the vid link above was great help again! My intended use for this is at 100 & 200M.

diopter, any thoughts on this G&E version in particular? As the vid above again indicated, there seems to be no real starting point indications for the various adjustments, other than eyeballing center postion as below:

aa09k7At1U.jpg



The iris adjuster is intuitive in that it runs from 0.8 to 2.2 (smallest to widest) - but why those particular numbers, any idea? mm possibly?

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Turrent numbers run for 1 to 11, but no apparent start point or start position indicator/reference mark on the diopter body

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These sights where designed for 300m distance with some leeway down to 100 and perhaps up to 600 depending on the rifle it is mounted on.
There was no need for the sliding reference zero indicators as used on the Bisley-Highpower sights.

Expect to re-zero every time you get to the range. Stock does changes a bit due to humidity and temperature. Slight change, but it's there.
Sun position and brightness has a larger effect on zero, which increases with distance.

Btw: .8 to 2.2 refers to iris hole size in mm. Smaller size gives a wider depth of field so target and sights can be in focus, but darkens sight picture. It's a question of picking the best compromise for you that day.

From what I can see, it seems the G&E iris uses leafs like this:
800px-Apertures.jpg
 
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Getting on paper at 300m.
From the manual:it works by the way, for 300m. You will be about 8-10 inches high for 100yds.
***********
Adjusting the line of sight;
-Once in place on the receiver, make sure that the eyepiece is centered in windage (24) and elevation (25) by looking at the long white reference lines (C&D) (opposite of the side you aim through).
-next, set your factory front sight in position 10, representing 1000 meters. Now look through the diopter and line everything up on the target. The sight picture should be perfectly concentric and tangent.

(Pages 8-9)
***********

Use a spot about 300m away as a centering target to line up your sights.
Set you original rear sight to 1000meters with the diopter and front sight already installed on the rifle.
While looking through the iris at your 300m mock target, turn knobs to center the diopter with the 1000m rear sight picture.
This should get you within half a meter of proper sighting (Swiss use targets with same proportions as the ISSF 300m targets, 1m square.

If you need more help, pm me with your phone #

I can guarantee that you will not be even close with the sight lines lined up like you have them now.
 
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These sights where designed for 300m distance with some leeway down to 100 and perhaps up to 600 depending on the rifle it is mounted on.
There was no need for the sliding reference zero indicators as used on the Bisley-Highpower sights.

Expect to re-zero every time you get to the range. Stock does changes a bit due to humidity and temperature. Slight change, but it's there.
Sun position and brightness has a larger effect on zero, which increases with distance.

Btw: .8 to 2.2 refers to iris hole size in mm. Smaller size gives a wider depth of field so target and sights can be in focus, but darkens sight picture. It's a question of picking the best compromise for you that day.

Getting on paper at 300m.
From the manual:it works by the way, for 300m. You will be about 8-10 inches high for 100yds.
***********
Adjusting the line of sight;
-Once in place on the receiver, make sure that the eyepiece is centered in windage (24) and elevation (25) by looking at the long white reference lines (C&D) (opposite of the side you aim through).
-next, set your factory front sight in position 10, representing 1000 meters. Now look through the diopter and line everything up on the target. The sight picture should be perfectly concentric and tangent.

(Pages 8-9)
***********

Use a spot about 300m away as a centering target to line up your sights.
Set you original rear sight to 1000meters with the diopter and front sight already installed on the rifle.
While looking through the iris at your 300m mock target, turn knobs to center the diopter with the 1000m rear sight picture.
This should get you within half a meter of proper sighting (Swiss use targets with same proportions as the ISSF 300m targets, 1m square.

If you need more help, pm me with your phone #

I can guarantee that you will not be even close with the sight lines lined up like you have them now.

Yea I figured that last part would have been just wayyyy to easy LOL! Thanks again for the info, it is much appreciated! I think I have a good handle on how to approach this now when I get it all out to the range. The diopter itself is in very nice shape, the iris cycles through it's range very smoothly and the turrets operate with nice, precise clicks. Was hoping that would be soon but with the first winter storm of the season moving in, may have to wait awhile. Along with breaking in the T81 :)
 
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