K98 Safety 'Stuck' in Fire Position Issue

[ArsGladius]

Recently picked up a K98K. The safety is functional, such that the gun will not fire in the "safe/bolt locked" or "safe/bolt unlocked" positions.

However when I move it to "fire" I can not move it back to "safe" (I know it has to be cocked to move the safety) with out removing the bolt from the rifle and manually pulling the cocking piece back farther.

When moved to "fire" the cocking piece does move forward about 1-2mm which is what is preventing the lever from moving back to "safe".

From the info I have gathered so far, it looks like the cause is that either the cocking piece or the sear has been worn or modified. I have looked at both and neither seems to be in unusual condition, but I don't have reference components to look at. I have fully disassembled and cleaned the bolt, I have also cleaned the trigger group, no change.

I believe that I can get the parts imported from Numrich in the US, but just want to check that I am not missing something obvious.

I can get pics of the bolt/cocking piece and/or sear if it helps.

 

[CanadianAR]

The safety was a fitted part. So unless it matched the other bolt parts, its not fitted.

If not matching, try another safety. Sometimes another will happen to work. Its a common problem with RC rifles.

Or you can fit it, i think there is a writeup on gunboards, cant remember.

 

[ArsGladius]

The bolt/components match the rifle (stamped numbers).

Trigger group is from a different rifle though.

I'll see if I can dig up that thread on gunboards.

 

[hogie]

You can get parts at Trade Ex. Had same problem with an Isreal K98 that I purchased, replaced the safety and cocking piece.

 

[sean69]

My Yugo does the same thing - it's a matter of 'working it in'

with the bolt closed & cocked push down on the cocking piece then try to move the safety into the safe positions. It may take a fair bit of force - but if you can move it like that - it will eventually get broken in.

 

[sean69]

just hold down the cocking piece as in the pic below, it still may take some force, but after a while you will be able to work it without the thumb hold:

if it's still being ornery, take the bolt apart, look at the back of the safety wing, you can clearly see the 3 positions on it, if the lip between the fire and bolt free positions is sharp you can just slightly chamfir the edge with a dremel - SLIGHTLY - don't grind the darned thing down you basically just want to get rid of the sharp edge.

When I first got that gun you could not move the safety no matter what, if you have the same problem, I'm guessing it's a common issue.

-sean

 

[ArsGladius]

A few people elsewhere have said not to force the safety as the tab may break at the stem.

For my rifle, I think it is a different issue as A) it German made and I don't see them letting it out of the factory like that, B) it has likely seen service so it should be 'worn in' at this point and C) the cocking piece moves forward a good 1 to 2 mm when moved to the fire position. To get it back to safe, I have to pull the cocking piece rewards (with the bolt out of the gun to get enough grip). It is more than a 'wear in' issue for the indexing notches.

Thanks for the suggestion though.

 

[CanadianAR]

If its matching numbers, your best option is dont use the safety. lol.

 

[sean69]

I don't know about breaking the stem - I don't think you could break it with your hands alone, that's hardened steel.... ! [I'm not suggesting you bash it with a hammer!]

And somehow I got this thread confused with another I was posting in - I thought you had a yugo mauser... M48 for some reason.

but take a peek at the pics below:

- my cocking piece moves backwards and forwards when manipulating the safety as well - which you can see is just about the width before the cutaway from the safe position.

Give the thumb trick a try at least, if the cocking piece moves up and down a little then you should be able to switch the safety without using too much force [definitely not a mallet! ]

and one other thing to consider, I noticed you said that the trigger group does not match, but the bolt parts do? Generally all I've seen are 2 digit numbers on the bolt components - there is always the off chance that someone mixed up the safety from another bolt that just happened to have the same last 2 digits, an off chance - but it could be possible.