Wondering if any one on here familiar with Kidd triggers could help me out.
I bought a 10/22 at an auction. Came with an IBI barrel, looks like a Power Customs "match" bolt, Magpul stock, and a Kidd single stage trigger on a factory receiver.
When it arrived it was lubed with a really tacky/thick oil. I wiped it all down and gave it a quick clean. Tried shooting it at the range and it wouldn't run, only light primer strikes. When the hammer strikes it feels/sounds weak. Had my takedown model with me that day and swapped triggers (with a factory unit), takedown wouldn't run (light strikes) and my new 10/22 ran flawlessly.
The trigger function checks fine, can't see any obvious issues. The hammer strut/spring appears the same size/style as the Ruger one, I swapped those around and tried it out, I think I managed to get one or two rounds off, the rest were still light strikes.
It felt like that sticky oil that covered the action was also in the Kidd housing, the bolt hold open and safety just felt kind of mushy/dragging, so I flushed the whole unit out with brake cleaner and compressed air. The safety and bolt hold now feel way better.
Took it out and ran two magazines through it a few weeks ago, ran flawlessly. Tried taking it out yesterday and I'm back to square one, couldn't get a single round off.
Started lightly taking apart the trigger last night to try to figure it out. One thing I noticed is the hammer seems fairly snug in the housing/on the pin, compared to a Ruger hammer which pivots easily; the Kidd hammer has a noticeable tension/preload on it. Can't see anything else "wrong" with the trigger, I know aftermarket kits will often include shims/spacers to reduce side-to-side play between the hammer/housing pivot, but I'm wondering if the extra drag on that area is slowing the hammer down a bit causing the light strikes.
For people familiar with Kidd triggers; does that sound normal to you? I didn't go any further with disassembly as the hammer pin appears to be very tight and possibly has to be removed in a certain direction.
I bought a 10/22 at an auction. Came with an IBI barrel, looks like a Power Customs "match" bolt, Magpul stock, and a Kidd single stage trigger on a factory receiver.
When it arrived it was lubed with a really tacky/thick oil. I wiped it all down and gave it a quick clean. Tried shooting it at the range and it wouldn't run, only light primer strikes. When the hammer strikes it feels/sounds weak. Had my takedown model with me that day and swapped triggers (with a factory unit), takedown wouldn't run (light strikes) and my new 10/22 ran flawlessly.
The trigger function checks fine, can't see any obvious issues. The hammer strut/spring appears the same size/style as the Ruger one, I swapped those around and tried it out, I think I managed to get one or two rounds off, the rest were still light strikes.
It felt like that sticky oil that covered the action was also in the Kidd housing, the bolt hold open and safety just felt kind of mushy/dragging, so I flushed the whole unit out with brake cleaner and compressed air. The safety and bolt hold now feel way better.
Took it out and ran two magazines through it a few weeks ago, ran flawlessly. Tried taking it out yesterday and I'm back to square one, couldn't get a single round off.
Started lightly taking apart the trigger last night to try to figure it out. One thing I noticed is the hammer seems fairly snug in the housing/on the pin, compared to a Ruger hammer which pivots easily; the Kidd hammer has a noticeable tension/preload on it. Can't see anything else "wrong" with the trigger, I know aftermarket kits will often include shims/spacers to reduce side-to-side play between the hammer/housing pivot, but I'm wondering if the extra drag on that area is slowing the hammer down a bit causing the light strikes.
For people familiar with Kidd triggers; does that sound normal to you? I didn't go any further with disassembly as the hammer pin appears to be very tight and possibly has to be removed in a certain direction.
