Kriss Vector with custom made 12 inch quad rail **NOW WITH HOW TO**
- Thread starter pavmentsurfer
- Start date
There is no reason an aftermarket rail supplier couldn't EASILY build this. Its simply a mild modification of an existing part. Material only needs to be removed, not added so its not even like they'd have to re-do tooling in a large way.
I think it would be cool if a rail like what i have made was built with a taller top rail that mated to the factory top rail... youd have a LONG monolithic top rail which would make iron sights VERY usefull and it would look cool.
I think it would be cool if a rail like what i have made was built with a taller top rail that mated to the factory top rail... youd have a LONG monolithic top rail which would make iron sights VERY usefull and it would look cool.
As promised, here is the best step by step I can come up with.
First, (obviously) check that your gun is unloaded and safe and remove the lower from the upper with the 3 pins. You dont need to take the bolt or bolt carrier out if you dont want to.
It would probably be a decent idea to wrap the barrel shround in something at this point so it doesnt get scratched as your sliding the quad rail around... I didnt, nothing was damaged but I had to be VERy careful.
Now remove the lower rail from in front of the magwel area by drifting out the small pin and sliding the rail toward the front of the gun.
Measure from the edge of where the lower rail use to sit, to the very front edge of the gun. This is how much material you need to remove from the upper portion of the hand guard.
Transfer that measurement over to the hand guard. I marked 3 spots. Both side rails and the top rail. Then cut to those marks. You want to trim BEHIND the side rails. You can see how I did it well on one side and not so well on the other. This was all a matter of my dremel angle. Take your time here. A larger diameter cutting wheel is helpful. A You could probably use a saw of some kind as well... or even a grinder if your really careful.
This is what the removed piece should look like.
Now test fit the rail to make sure you have a tight fit along the bottom where the rail meets the frames magwel area AND at the very front of the gun where it mates to the flashlight mounting cover. Trim where necessary.
Now you need to drill the mounting holes. This was the hardest part. I didnt use any fancy measuring method (probably should have) I pretty much eyeballed it and got lucky. The 2 rear holes need to be drilled and, if you want to go as far as counter sinking them, it makes for a cleaner finish. I used the screws that came with the rail for the rear holes. Theyre the same threads as the Kriss rail mounting points.
First, (obviously) check that your gun is unloaded and safe and remove the lower from the upper with the 3 pins. You dont need to take the bolt or bolt carrier out if you dont want to.
It would probably be a decent idea to wrap the barrel shround in something at this point so it doesnt get scratched as your sliding the quad rail around... I didnt, nothing was damaged but I had to be VERy careful.
Now remove the lower rail from in front of the magwel area by drifting out the small pin and sliding the rail toward the front of the gun.
Measure from the edge of where the lower rail use to sit, to the very front edge of the gun. This is how much material you need to remove from the upper portion of the hand guard.
Transfer that measurement over to the hand guard. I marked 3 spots. Both side rails and the top rail. Then cut to those marks. You want to trim BEHIND the side rails. You can see how I did it well on one side and not so well on the other. This was all a matter of my dremel angle. Take your time here. A larger diameter cutting wheel is helpful. A You could probably use a saw of some kind as well... or even a grinder if your really careful.
This is what the removed piece should look like.
Now test fit the rail to make sure you have a tight fit along the bottom where the rail meets the frames magwel area AND at the very front of the gun where it mates to the flashlight mounting cover. Trim where necessary.
Now you need to drill the mounting holes. This was the hardest part. I didnt use any fancy measuring method (probably should have) I pretty much eyeballed it and got lucky. The 2 rear holes need to be drilled and, if you want to go as far as counter sinking them, it makes for a cleaner finish. I used the screws that came with the rail for the rear holes. Theyre the same threads as the Kriss rail mounting points.
By chance, when the rail is fit perfectly, the front rail mounting holes on the gun line up DEAD ON with a set of pre-existing holes in the rail. But the hole is way to big for a screw and even with a washer it wouldnt support the handguard vertically so I used a nut I had in my tool box as a spacer to fill the hole. It was the exact same size as the hole and the bolt I used fit through the middle of it perfect. the bolt I used was from my RC truck spare parts bin. I really cant specify what it was because it was very random. The washer is also from an RC wheel hub. To get a flat enough surface for the washer to sit against I had to grind off ONE rail section that sat directly over the front mount hole.
Once it was all installed I checked to make sure there was still enough room to operate the charging handle without issues. For me, it works great.
The final step was to smooth out the area on the sides of the handguard that mount over the body of the gun... this is where your hand will be moving to charge the gun and the rails are sharp. I just cut a 4 bar section of magpul ladder rail covers and insalled it. The added benefit was that it pretty much covered up the bolt and washer.
Thats it, Its done. I put on the Magpul AFG and a set of Ergo rail covers from my XCR for a smoother forward grip. You can mount whatever you want. I wouldnt use the rail for anything that will be flexed or pried on alot (a bipod or sling mount, for example, may not be a good idea) as the rail is only mounted with 4 screws a LONG way back and those screws are into the plastic of the gun... so its not ROCK solid. But its more than solid enough to mount lights and grips and other accessories. For me, the most important aspect was the look. I think it really improves the strange appearance of the NR vectors LONG barrel. I think a good idea would be to put some sort of protective layer over the barrel shroud just behind the very front of the rail. It does flex a bit and could contact the shroud if it got bumped hard enough. Even just a few wraps of electrical tape would give it enough of a buffer. That would be the ghetto way of doing it. A thin strip of rubber or something would be classier.
I hope this helps explain how I did it. If anyone needs any other specific info or pictures just let me know and ill get it up asap.
Once it was all installed I checked to make sure there was still enough room to operate the charging handle without issues. For me, it works great.
The final step was to smooth out the area on the sides of the handguard that mount over the body of the gun... this is where your hand will be moving to charge the gun and the rails are sharp. I just cut a 4 bar section of magpul ladder rail covers and insalled it. The added benefit was that it pretty much covered up the bolt and washer.
Thats it, Its done. I put on the Magpul AFG and a set of Ergo rail covers from my XCR for a smoother forward grip. You can mount whatever you want. I wouldnt use the rail for anything that will be flexed or pried on alot (a bipod or sling mount, for example, may not be a good idea) as the rail is only mounted with 4 screws a LONG way back and those screws are into the plastic of the gun... so its not ROCK solid. But its more than solid enough to mount lights and grips and other accessories. For me, the most important aspect was the look. I think it really improves the strange appearance of the NR vectors LONG barrel. I think a good idea would be to put some sort of protective layer over the barrel shroud just behind the very front of the rail. It does flex a bit and could contact the shroud if it got bumped hard enough. Even just a few wraps of electrical tape would give it enough of a buffer. That would be the ghetto way of doing it. A thin strip of rubber or something would be classier.
I hope this helps explain how I did it. If anyone needs any other specific info or pictures just let me know and ill get it up asap.
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