Lapping a rebated rim cylinder on New Service

[tokguy]

Thanks for all the help with the 219 cracked stock...still working sourcing cyanoacrylate ( I live about 20 mins outside of town... can't just zip to Home Depot).
The latest thing is this old warrior.

I built a firing pin this morning...tested it with primed casings from my 455 era. All good... my reading glasses, a finer file and a little hobby vise ( And some Green tea ...about 4 actually). Cut it out of a Spade bit for large diameter holes in wood... perfect thickness!
But this old warrior got the cruel cut... it's a 45 LC now. Problem being with that is the Gun Plumber must not have done the cut on the same days...at least one hole is proud. Proud enough to cause considerable drag with a full cylinder. I'm guessing a 45 LC casing jury rigged into a drill and some valve grinding compound ( got 2 different grits in the shop) is the best way to tackle the problem.

I would have rather they shaved the rear off of the cylinder rather then attempt the rebating... but it is what it is. 45 LC is a much more powerful and accessible cartridge than 455...that is why I got rid of the 455's...PITA to work with. On the bright side I've about 40 thinned and trimmed 45 Scofield casings... so the revolver is still relevant without modification. But I do want to get the rebated trouble straightened out so 45 LC is the cartridge of choice.
Strangely enough... the bore slugs at .452... I'd have guessed that it would have been .454 or such.
But I digress... am I on the right track to rectify the problem at hand? Building a hand or firing pin is actually quite easy... lapping out a cylinder is a step beyond what I have done so far. A man has to realize his limitations and there are much more skilled Gun Plumbers on this sub forum than I.
Regards
Tokguy

 

[fingers284]

I'm leaning towards a trip to a gubsmit that has a .45 LC reamer or, probably more "localy avail', a trip to a machine shop to have the rim recess cut a smidge . The "grinding compound on a brass" will just probably round off the lip of the chamber because the grinding compound will cut the brass much more aggressively than the steel of the cylinder and once the brass is rounded off, that contour will continue with the steel altho on a much slower pace. The "square corner" recess you want for your brass in the cylinder will never be achieved using your projected idea I think.

Even a local basement hobby machinist with a small lathe and a 4-jaw could mount that cylinder offset to the lathe bore and just touch a cutter to the rim rebate in a very few minutes of set-up. this would retain the rebate square shoulder for brass rim seating.

 

[tokguy]

Thanks!
Good call on that... glad I asked. Saved me grief for sure.
Upon careful examination the firing pin bushing was a couple thou proud. A few careful passes with a die makers file and it's much better. Still one proud rim... but I think I can do something with it too.
Regards
Tokguy