Leading

Rife Ling

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Anyone out there found a really good solvent for cleaning out lead from cast bullets ( wheel weights ) Getting tired of scrubbing and soaking and the same over and over again. It's becoming a problem when shooting a lot in an afternoon ? And shooting.45ACP, I one can only back off on the load to a point without creating other problems.:
 
I have had the same problem in .45ACP and it seemed my powder charge was not the problem so much as the size of my boolit. By using a slightly larger bullet (slug your bore then try 1 or 2 thousands over that) you can reduce or stop leading.

That being said, it has been recommened to use a copper cleaning pad like Chore Boy wrapped around a brush with normal solvent and scrub hard. Some of the faster chemicals used to remove lead can be more hazardous to the guns finish and/or you and the environment so be careful.
 
As the above poster replied, there is no reason that a properly fitting(not necessarily hard) bullet, with a good lube, should lead your barrel. Cast too hard, too small, not enough lube, or too hard a lube can all cause problem leading.
 
How's your bore condition?
How hot are your loads?
With a reasonably smooth bore and well-lubed, good fitting bullets - you shouldn't see any significant barrel leading until you are on the hot side of 1200 fps. And I've used .357Mag ammo with plain-based bullets up to 1300 fps with no noticeable leading; but you're starting to temp fate at that level.

When I did get leading (and sometimes I got it pretty bad!), I used a yellow chemical-impregnated cloth called something like "Lead-Away", I think it was from "Kleen Bore"... It worked pretty well.
 
Go to dollar store.
Buy a copper pot scrubber.
Un-ravel it and cut some strips off of it,
wrap it around bore brush.
With a nice snug fit, this will remove lead very fast.
To reduce the leading, slow your loads down
or use a different powder, and or use more alox if you are tumble lubing.
 
A lot seems to depend on the gun. I used to shoot a quite a bit of 44 magnum cast loads. I had three Ruger single action revolvers. One gave very mild leading sometimes, one of them leaded very bad, so I sold it, while with the third you couldn't make it lead the barrel.
I also had a couple of Smith & Wessons in that calibre and one leaded pretty good, while the other one didn't lead.
At one time it was considered that shooting a few hundred jacketed bullets might cure a gun of leading, by smoothing the bore.
 
I bought 2000 brg .45 200grn swc & shot them through three handguns with the same load. Nork 1911 700rnds, no lead. Sti trojan, 500rnds, major leading. Highpoint got the rest mild leading. Go figure.
 
Leading is caused by trying to drive a cast bullet too fast. Proper .45 cast bullet loads shouldn't cause leading.
"...tired of scrubbing and soaking..." Soak longer. An hour or so. Gives the solvent time to work.
 
Leading is caused by trying to drive a cast bullet too fast. Proper .45 cast bullet loads shouldn't cause leading.
"...tired of scrubbing and soaking..." Soak longer. An hour or so. Gives the solvent time to work.

I also doubt you can drive a 45acp load fast enough to cause leading. As mentioned previously I suspect it's more likely your bullets are slightly undersized for your bore causing gas undercutting of the base and leaving nice molten lead deposits as it travels down the barrel. I would suggest this is the predominant reason for lead fouling in pistol ammunition.
If you are shooting factory cast it might be time to cast your own and size 1-2 thou over your current size.
 
I know I'm going to open a can of worms with the "No Cast in Glocks" crowd, but I've had varying results shooting lead in my Glock 21. Everything from major leading to none at all. Just like the other posters above, I seem to get the best results with a slightly oversize (0.001" to 0.002" or so) bullet. I've also found a slightly harder bullet will lead my barrel less, but that may be due to the polygonal rifling in the Glock. The .45 is probably one of the best for handloading cast in, because you shouldn't be able to drive those big slugs fast enough to cause major leading, but some pistols can be finicky. I just do like others here, and wrap some copper "Chore Boy" pot scrubber material around a bore brush and scrub away. The copper stuff is softer than the steel barrel, but much harder than the lead; the fouling should come right out.

Erik.
 
I also doubt you can drive a 45acp load fast enough to cause leading. As mentioned previously I suspect it's more likely your bullets are slightly undersized for your bore causing gas undercutting of the base and leaving nice molten lead deposits as it travels down the barrel. I would suggest this is the predominant reason for lead fouling in pistol ammunition.
If you are shooting factory cast it might be time to cast your own and size 1-2 thou over your current size.

Leading isn't really caused by velocity - it's caused from gas pressure exceeding the lead's ability to contain the pressure. Gas leaks past the bullet and this causes the sides of the bullets to sublimate - depositing lead down the bore as the cold metal of the bbl cools the lead vapours.

Gas checked bullets aim to reduce the leakage by sealing the base of the bullet with copper. Paper will produce a similar effect. Paper patched bullets will even remove leading by the abrasive effect. It's like running a patch after every round.

You could try paper patching :) It's a lot of fun and even if you start out with undersized bullets, you can size them up to bore +.001" by wrapping a thin paper once and forcing them through a sizing die.

Another cause of leading is gas cutting of the base from using too fast a powder for the load. If you have room in the case, a slower powder may help.
 
Simply fire one (1) jacketed bullet at the end of your shooting session.

Bang, no more leading. It really is the easiest way.

You should still try to prevent it from happening in the first place though.
 
Leading isn't really caused by velocity - it's caused from gas pressure exceeding the lead's ability to contain the pressure. Gas leaks past the bullet and this causes the sides of the bullets to sublimate - depositing lead down the bore as the cold metal of the bbl cools the lead vapours.

Gas checked bullets aim to reduce the leakage by sealing the base of the bullet with copper. Paper will produce a similar effect. Paper patched bullets will even remove leading by the abrasive effect. It's like running a patch after every round.

.

yup, but an undersized bullet promotes that gas cutting even if the pressure isn't very high.
gas checks and paper patching defiantly help.

Not intending to hijack the thread but i am currently taking orders for copper gas checks

PM me for pricing and cal avail'.
 
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