Led sled recoil

Just bought one last week from Amazon. tried it for the first time yesterday. The reduction in recoil was substantial using a Lee Enfield and a M1 Garand. Dialing in your scope is a breeze. I should have bought one a long time ago. Money well spent
 
With luck, the stock won't crack, and the poi will be close from field positions. I have personally witnessed two cracked stocks, from lead sleds, and the point of impact can be effected.
 
POI is definitely affected on a heavy recoiling rifle if you compare it to shooting prone without holding the forend. I've gotten into the habit of controlling recoil by holding down the forend when I shoot prone with my 300 WM and my groups are not only smaller but the POI also matches the lead sled better.

The biggest thing to watch out for is damage at the stock to action interface. Broken wood stocks are possible but I even discovered an issue with my Accustock (with full length aluminum bedding block). My factory recoil lug actually bent and I couldn't figure out why my accuracy went from consistent 3/4" to 1.5" with the exact same lot of factory ammo. When I removed the lug there was a shiny mark where it had dug into the barrel nut so it wasn't bent from the factory. I installed a 1/4" thick aftermarket recoil lug and it hasn't happened again.

I use the lead sled for load development and sighting in. I confirm the sight in from prone and then practise from all field positions. Just my way of doing things.
 
I forgot to answer your question... :). Recoil reduction is substantial. Think of it as adding the entire weight of the lead sled to your rifle. It's not necessary to add even more weight to the sled. That will just exacerbate stock damage issues.
 
Recoil reduction will depend on what cal you are testing. While it will be dramatically reduced, save your shekels for a new scope and maybe some stock repair. I've seen the dreaded Sled shear off base screws and bugger up more than one scope. Better and cheaper to learn how to manage the recoil than to use that gimmicky tool.
 
Kind of dumb to put your rifle up against a brick wall but if there is some give in the system and you add a bit more foam to the cradle where the butt pad rests.... It should work just fine.

Keep in mind that some people get cracked stocks and damaged scopes and rings without using a lead sled....
 
I built one years ago out of some steel and a scissor jack (automotive), they do reduce recoil nicely, but with the pocket in the back at the butt, it increases overall length of pull which was kind of annoying when you're used to a certain cheek position.

I did like it for load development with the 300WM I had. It was a heavy rifle but still, 10 different 5 round groups and your shoulder can be getting worn out with a magnum, Id definitely suggest it for some of the magnum calibers for load development, you can avoid getting flinchy/jittery and not be bothered with the recoil. Its nice for knowing the groups reflect the ammunition load/rifle and take a bit of your shooting out the formula so you can really see what is gonna be the most accurate load and not what group you happened to be shooting best that day.

Personally I wouldn't bother with a smaller caliber but it all depends on how you feel the recoil (shape of the stock and energy) and how it fits to your shoulder, and how many rounds you put through it at the range in a day.

I lent the thing to my parents who live in BC, dad has two shoulders that are titanium from midway up his upper arm bone, and mom can only handle so much with her 270, otherwise Id offer to lend it out in Calgary.
 
I made a sled for testing the bigger pigs that weighs about 18 pounds and you can still shoulder the recoil... and the felt recoil is very light. It slides freely on the bench. No damage to stocks or scopes.

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I bought my sled specifically for the CZ 450 Rigby. I have 75lbs of shot (3x25lb bags) on it. It reduces recoil by about 50%. I do now use it for other rifles as I have issues with my shoulders (too may dumb things done when younger). I use what I feel is enough weight to reduce felt recoil. Usually 25lbs for up to 338WM, 50lbs for 375H&H, 416Rigby. Those work for me.
Make sure the sled has give to it and can move. Do not "anchor" it in place. Battenfeld customer service rep stated this when I was asking about using it for my 450. If it can't give or move the torque will be absorbed by the pistol grip/tang area and chances of it cracking are greatly increased, hence the complaint about Leadsleds cracking stocks....no you didn't use it properly.
 
I have a sled that I use when developing loads.
375ruger with 300g pills.
Hardly Andy recoil felt.
But it’s bent the back on the sled where the but pad sits
 
rifleman338 said:
Recoil reduction will depend on what cal you are testing. While it will be dramatically reduced, save your shekels for a new scope and maybe some stock repair. I've seen the dreaded Sled shear off base screws and bugger up more than one scope. Better and cheaper to learn how to manage the recoil than to use that gimmicky tool.
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We have encountered this many times in warranty claims on Leupold optics. All of that energy has to go somewhere - if the rifle is unable to move, the force is transferred to the scope and mounts. The effects are increased with some of the massive, overly-heavy offshore optics; all that mass will negatively affect your base screws.

A better option (when possible) is a muzzle brake, if you are having difficulty with the recoil. There are downsides to a brake, especially on a hunting rifle.

KGL
 
Being on a pension, money is tight.
I made a lead sled, out of old peices of steel that I had.
I should have had one 40 years ago.
Firing my 7mm is unbeilievable, very little recoil. 308 and 06 very light.
Shooting a 243 is like shooting a 22
I use 2, 25 lbs of lead shot, I will try it with another 25 lbs of lead shot.
I would not sight in any hi-powered rifle with out it.
I would suggest to buy the biggest model they sell of the led sled.
I can fire 12 gauge slugs with no problem.
I tried one without the led sled, darn near took my shoulder off.
 
Korth Group Ltd said:
We have encountered this many times in warranty claims on Leupold optics. All of that energy has to go somewhere - if the rifle is unable to move, the force is transferred to the scope and mounts. The effects are increased with some of the massive, overly-heavy offshore optics; all that mass will negatively affect your base screws.

A better option (when possible) is a muzzle brake, if you are having difficulty with the recoil. There are downsides to a brake, especially on a hunting rifle.

KGL
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But if the brake is removable, you can use it for sighting in then pull it off for hunting...?
 
Suther said:
But if the brake is removable, you can use it for sighting in then pull it off for hunting...?
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You should sight in the gun in 100% hunting configuration. Btw, I don't believe scope damage will occur due to a sled. How does it differ at all (as far as the scope is concerned) from a 24 lb unlimited benchrest gun vs a 9 lb rifle in a 15 lb sled? The scope is still mounted over top of 24 lbs. The SCOPE'S mass will cause force on the screws and mounts because they have to accelerate the scope to the same velocity as the action. If anything the scope should see LESS force with a sled as the acceleration of the action is reduced. But there is MORE force at the action to stock interface because you are essentially adding weight to the stock, not the action.
 
rifleman762 said:
You should sight in the gun in 100% hunting configuration. Btw, I don't believe scope damage will occur due to a sled. How does it differ at all (as far as the scope is concerned) from a 24 lb unlimited benchrest gun vs a 9 lb rifle in a 15 lb sled? The scope is still mounted over top of 24 lbs. The SCOPE'S mass will cause force on the screws and mounts because they have to accelerate the scope to the same velocity as the action. If anything the scope should see LESS force with a sled as the acceleration of the action is reduced. But there is MORE force at the action to stock interface because you are essentially adding weight to the stock, not the action.
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Yes, but then you're not shooting it from your sled either so the brake would be useful in any situation the sled is, no?
 
Trying to sight in a rifle on a lead sled is a stupid exercise.

By mitigating the human interface with the rifle, you pretty much guarantee that the POI will be different from lead sled to when you shoot it without one.

Do yourself a favor and either ditch the lead sled or get a smaller cartridge.
 
I have sighted my hunting rifles in using my sled and then tested point of impact without the sled... I found no real difference...

It only makes sense if you use a sled to compare any differences in poi and go from there.

And with a sled that weight is added to the stock... reducing recoil and reducing stress on the scope and mounts... I think Korth is way off on his theory about a sled increasing scope and mount stress.
 
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guntech said:
I have sighted my hunting rifles in using my sled and then tested point of impact without the sled... I found no real difference...

It only makes sense if you use a sled to compare any differences in poi and go from there.

And with a sled that weight is added to the stock... reducing recoil and reducing stress on the scope and mounts... I think Korth is way off on his theory about a sled increasing scope and mount stress.
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That's probably because you properly apply the fundamentals and don't negatively influence the gun when you shoot. However, most people don't. A lot of people don't follow through, or slap the trigger for example - that will show up when shooting, but not on a lead sled.

I know with most of my shooting buddies, I can get behind their rifles and my POI will be damn near identical to theirs - use identical application of fundamentals. However, there's others I know where our POI will be different - I know this for a fact.

I still stand by my comment that it's very unwise to sight in a rifle in a manner which is much different than how you would normally shoot the rifle. Makes zero sense to do it that way. It should only take 3 rounds or less to sight in a rifle, if you can't handle that recoil, you have no business shooting it at all.
 
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