Lee Enfield No 5 beding question

leeaspell

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I baught this rifle a couple months ago and today I took it apart to give it a good clean. What I found was it looks like the last owner tried to bed the action and half the barrel with what looks to be Mono or some sort of plumbers putty maybe. Should I remove it or just leave it in there. The guy said it was accurate but I havent shot it a whole lot yet and only used the battle sights which im not to used to using, I tried the 150's and 180's and I could hit a 5 gallon bucket at 100 yards with the 150's and a 2L bottle with 180.
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Not a great pic off my phone
 
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Yea I thaught it was body filler at first to. If I take it apart again, the stuff on the barrel will be on the stock, and stuff on the stock will be on different part of barrell, it isnt solid what so ever. So I guess tomorrow project is to clean it off.
 
leeaspell

Remember this, if a fore stock had wood crush below the receiver and above the trigger guard of more than .020 the fore stock would have been replaced by the armourer.

If your fore stock exceeds these limits it is possible for the barrel to tilt downward and into the barrel channel touching the barrel channel. (wood crush at area (B) and (D). If the knox form is low it can be carefully shimmed or replaced moving the barrel upward which might requiring the lowering of the rear of bedding point (B)

The bedding points are the same on the No.4 as the No.5 excluding the bedding point (E) on the No.5 because of its free floating barrel. Everything forward of bedding point (D) the knox form on the No.5 is free floating.

beddingpoints.jpg


beddingpoints-2.jpg


Below, section AA .020 clearance, section CC .020 clearance, section DD .040 clearance.

No5Bedding-a.jpg


NOTE (a) Section AA clearance is dependant on what is required to align the barrel in the barrel channel (pushing left or right)

NOTE (b) The rear of the fore stock where it touches the receiver ring can also be used to align the barrel in the barrel channel.

NOTE (c) Both note a and b can fight each other for "WHO" is going to "steer" the barrel down the barrel channel.

NOTE (d) there was a reason why the wooden dowel pins were added to settle the fight for "WHO" controled the barrel steering. :eek:

dowelpins.jpg


NOTE (e) when in doubt get a bigger hammer. :D
 
How do you measure the crush of the wood on something that may have been crushed for 65 years with layers of oil and dirts and what not
 
The wood crush comments I made are to help you understand bedding and trigger pull on the Enfield rifle.
(excluding the Mk.2)

The Canadian manual for the No.4 is written in such a way to keep the Enfield rifle in service with the Canadian Rangers. And you don't throw the fore stock away because of wood crush, because they ain't makin' them no more. ;)

If your stock has excess wood crush you adjust the bedding to compensate, you also compensate by bending the trigger guard to adjust trigger pull when there is too much wood crush. This is just one of the major reasons the trigger was hung from the receiver on the Mk.2 because wood crush would no longer change the angle of the trigger guard.

(the key word below is "may")

No4Mk1Arm_Page_43.jpg


Wood crush shortens the distance below and increases the angle of the trigger guard to where it can no longer be adjusted by stoning the trigger lobes. Wood crush and wood scrinkage is the major cause of bad bedding and rotten trigger pulls. ;)

k-screw-2a.jpg


The following message was brought to you by the American Enfield society and the prevention of cruelty to Enfield rifles. :rolleyes:
 
"...just like Mono or playdough..." Hi. If it's that soft it's not doing anything anyway. Scrape it out, then clean the wood and put on a wood sealer.
"...which I'm not to used to using..." Look through the rear sight at the front sight and sit the target on top of the post.
 
My question about the wood crush was more about what do you go off as a zero? Its hard to measure something if you dont have a starting point
 
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