Lee Enfield - what to look for?

W

waterwheel

Regular
Rating - 100%
6   0   0
Location
Location Location
So I'm going to a gun auction tomorrow. I'm considering buying a Lee Enfield if one comes up for a decent price ($300 range?). Can I get some advice on what to look for? I know I should be looking at a N4Mk1, but beyond that, I'm confused and overwhelmed by the options.

My purpose is simple. I'm looking for a low cost, functional piece of Canadian history to restore the woodwork on. I've done this with a Cooey or two, looking for the same thing on a lee enfield. Cooey's are cheap, but the enfields seem to run from $150 to $1000+ and I don't get the differences.

Some thoughts:
- do I care that much about matching numbers?
- do I care about the manufacturer?
- sights, etc, are these normally a problem?
- do I care about sporterized vs full wood? (I don't understand if both are factory original or not).

Some general beginner thoughts appreciated!
 
Sorry, I can't give you too much usefull advice on the Lee Enfield, but I have heard of much inflated prices at gun autions, with some good deals too.
 
If you're going to go to the trouble of restoring a rifle then yes, you probably want #'s matching. That is if you want purist collectible factor.
If it's just a shooter/hunter/beater then it doesn't matter as function is everything.
All Enfields were full wood originally so don't get a sporter unless you want a sporter or it is priced accordingly.
Replacement wood sets & hardware for No4's isn't that hard to find but isn't cheap either.
Barrel length should be 25.25" with bayonet lug intact. If not ...... it's been chopped and is not a prime candidate for restoration.
Most collectors do not want one that has been drilled & tappped for scope mounts.
Unless you're getting a Parker Hale sporter that comes with PH mount & rings, then that's different!
For a military config rebuild, you don't want any extra holes etc.
If it's a sporter, make sure the receiver charger bridge hasn't been machined off as this can't be restored!
There are many makers of No4 Mk1's but as a Canadian ......... a premium is attached to Long Branch rifles.
Try find one that hasn't been FTR'd (not necessarily a bad thing however!)
Try find one that doesn't have the Ishy screw! An ugly screw put through the stock to try prevent splitting in tropical conditions.
Take a 303 bullet (.311") with you (not a loaded cartridge, just the bullet) to check the barrel wear.
Insert bullet in muzzle pointy end first.
If it doesn't go too deep (past the shoulder) then there's still life in the barrel.
Pull out the bolt and see what the barrel looks like inside. They can be anything from clean & shiny with nice sharp rifling to looking like a sewer pipe.
Me personally, I prefer one manufactured during the war years just from the historical perspective.
When you look at the wood where it meets the metal at the wrist, you shouldn't see gaps or daylight. It should be a tight fit, no wiggle. If there's excessive gaps, the wood has shrunk and it could effect accuracy. Check both the fit of the forestock & the butt at the wrist.
There's plenty of other details but that's some of the bigger points to look for.
Hope that helps.
ENJOY & BUY ONE!
 
Last edited:
There are sporter #4's in the EE here all day every day well under your $300 mark and many of them were just wood sportered, and still have full barrels with bayonet lugs and everything. You might have more luck that way than crossing your fingers in an auction - even if the gun is provinces away, you can ask the right questions and request the right pictures.
 
Are you looking for Boer War, WWI, WWII, Korea, or what? Are you looking for specifically Canadian made or would UK or Australia suit you? As you can see from the comments, it's a bit more complex than just picking up one rifle. Each era of Lee-Enfield is fascinating. Each manufacturer has a story. So whatever you choose is no better than anything else. It's all in the stories that stir your blood, as it were.

For instance, I've decided my milsurp collection would be representative of what a Canadian 2 Lt. or Lt. might be found with during WWI. So I've started with a Ross. Next will be S&W H.E. in .455, SMLE No. 1 Mk. III*, Colt New Service .455, and I hope a Canadian Contract Colt Govn't Model.

So there's many ways you can go with a milsurp collection. It really helps if you narrow down what era interests you most. You won't waste any money on something you don't really want. That's surprisingly easy to do.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom