Lee Factory Crimp Die?

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Logan.Reese

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I searched the forums but could not find anything so here is my question. I was wondering if the Lee Factory Crip Die reduces the case life? I have been reading quite a bit and it just sounds too good to be true! What is the difference between the using just the normal seating die or both the seating die and the factory crimp die? Does the brass have to be full length sized before using the factory crimp die? or can it just be neck sized?

Thanks,
Logan
 
I assume you're talking about rifle? The rifle FCD dies doesn't to any resizing (unlike the pistol dies) so I can't see how it would affect brass life. It works the mouth of the case like any other crimp die, but it's a collet crimping action instead of taper or roll. You can size the brass however you want, it will still crimp the same.
 
i think the lee crimp die works far better than the stardard roll crimp. i use it for lever rounds and my 7.62x39. trim lenth isn't critical and the crimp is much more secure. i don't think it affect case life at all. the roll crimp can buckle or bulge thin cases like 30 30 and if not trimmed to same oal the crimp isn't uniform.
 
damndirtyape said:
I assume you're talking about rifle? The rifle FCD dies doesn't to any resizing (unlike the pistol dies) so I can't see how it would affect brass life.
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I will be reloading 9mm pistol ammo as well, so will the FCD reduce the life of that brass? Is it still worth it to use if it does?

Thanks for the help,
Logan
 
I neck size and then use the FCD for a little more bullet grip , helps when hunting and ammo gets handled alot , in and out of rifle , not sure about case life , but any extra working of the case will probaly reduce case life. Also I neck size twice , then full size , then neck size twice and recycle the case.I only go five reloads per case, this is only my method ,I shoot max loads , only one split case so far , knock on wood.
 
Logan.Reese said:
I will be reloading 9mm pistol ammo as well, so will the FCD reduce the life of that brass? Is it still worth it to use if it does?

Thanks for the help,
Logan
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I use a FCD for my 9mm to get rid of the glock bulge. I haven't yet worn out any 9mm brass so I can't comment on lifespan, but I bet you'll lose the brass before it wears out, with or without the FCD.
 
CanFire said:
How does the Factory Crimp Die get rid of the glock bulge? Wouldn't that be done by your sizing die?
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Because the FCD is actually a dual crimp/sizing die, it has a carbide sizing ring that goes lower than a regular sizing die. There are caveats to using it, it may deform lead bullets etc., but I've never had any problems with jacketed.

My Glock brass won't fit in a Dillon cartridge headspace gauge without the extra sizing the FCD does.
 
damndirtyape said:
Because the FCD is actually a dual crimp/sizing die, it has a carbide sizing ring that goes lower than a regular sizing die. There are caveats to using it, it may deform lead bullets etc., but I've never had any problems with jacketed.

My Glock brass won't fit in a Dillon cartridge headspace gauge without the extra sizing the FCD does.
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The names of the dies is quite confusing. The factory crimp die for rifles and bottle neck pistol cartridges is a crimp only die. The one you're referring to is in fact called the carbide factory crimp die, and is a post-sizer and crimper, which is excellent for semi auto pistol ammo.
 
I'm bringing this tread back up, as I'm thinking about getting into reloading myself, and am confuse :redface: by much of it.
I will be starting with 9mm. That said... Lee Factory Crimp or Hornady Taper Crimp (this, obviously, will be used in an auto loader).
Also... Lyman vs. Hornady loading manual.
Thoughts on this would be appreciated.
 
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ontgunner said:
I'm bringing this tread back up, as I'm thinking about getting into reloading myself, and am confuse :redface: by much of it.
I will be starting with 9mm. That said... Lee Factory Crimp or Hornady Taper Crimp (this, obviously, will be used in an auto loader).
Thoughts on this would be appreciated.
Click to expand...

If you want to use brass from Glock or other roomy chambered gun in a tight chamber, you'll probably need the FCD, otherwise, it's not necessary. The FCD may undersize or deform unjacketed bullets, you may experience problems if shooting straight lead.
 
Any "working" of the case mouth will eventually contribute to split case mouths ie: sizing, flaring/belling, crimping.
 
ben hunchak said:
Any "working" of the case mouth will eventually contribute to split case mouths ie: sizing, flaring/belling, crimping.
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Okay... sorry for sounding stupid. Would this be more prevalent with the factory or taper crimp?
As an aside, .38 spl/.357 may be next in line. Would this affect which crimp I should buy?
 
ontgunner said:
As an aside, .38 spl/.357 may be next in line. Would this affect which crimp I should buy?
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9mm is taper crimped 'cause the round headspaces on the case. The 38/357 is a rimmed case and is roll crimped. Just get the crimp die for the round you're loading for and all's good.

(E) :cool:
 
ontgunner said:
Okay... sorry for sounding stupid. Would this be more prevalent with the factory or taper crimp?
As an aside, .38 spl/.357 may be next in line. Would this affect which crimp I should buy?
Click to expand...

They're both taper crimp. The FCD for straight-walled pistol cases also has a sizing ring that goes further down than the sizer die, but its crimping action is identical to other crimp dies. This is not so for the FCD for rifle or bottleneck cases.

AFAIK, most, if not all, revolver rounds are roll crimped, which will accelerate case mouth wear.
 
No intention to hi-jack the thread here,
however I want to mention something.
With regards to the 'Glock bulge', when I put Glock fired brass in my Dillon
chamber gage, it bottoms out fully just like a properly re-sized case would.
When I put Sig fired brass in the same chamber gage, it does not bottom out. Therefore, I am lead to believe that the 'Glock bulge' isn't much of one and that the 'Sig bulge' is more pronounced.
I find it odd that the unsuported chamber brass fits and the suported chamber brass doesn't.
 
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