Lee factory crimping die

[Dsiwy]

I have been reloading 357Mag and am wondering do I need to taper crimp the cartridge when seating the bullet or just use the Factory crimp die after?

Should I back out the seating die to disable the crimp and just use the Factory crimp die for crimping?

 

[yomomma]

Well it headspace on the rim so either will do. I prefer the factory crimp die

 

[Dsiwy]

So I don't have to do both, like I have been.

Just want to cut down on the wear on my brass, I find the tapered/seating die really marks up the brass.

I'm using HS6 so crimping heavy to allow a cleaner burn.

 

[Riley1981]

For revolver the seating die should have a roll crimp.. I have a factory crimp die but only because I bought 2000 bullets for 38 super really cheap and they have no canulature so the factory crimp makes its own

 

[Trinimon]

I roll crimp my 357/38, 45LC, 44Mag ammo since they're seated by the rim. Taper crimp for anything that's seated on the case mouth.

 

[yomomma]

Lee factory will be a roll crimp which is far superior to the taper. Just need the one.

 

[emerson]

I roll crimp my 357/38, 45LC, 44Mag ammo since they're seated by the rim. Taper crimp for anything that's seated on the case mouth.

This is what I do fir my Blackhawk.

Lee factory will be a roll crimp which is far superior to the taper. Just need the one.

I had a difficult time figuring out which of the Lee dies were which. In some calibers at least Lee has both taper and roll crimp, I think. It seemed more complicated to nail down which was which at the time of purchase. It's been a while now, just remember that google wasn't particularly helpful. Nice part of roll crimping I don't trim brass. For the 44 I load it hot, roll crimp hard, use brass until I find a split. Toss it, use the rest. 10+ max reloads, no issues.

 

[K-C]

This is a list of Lee Factory Crimp Dies for handgun cartridges. The chart specifies Roll or Taper:

 

[luckey]

Yes. Normally we don't do seating and crimping on the same die, instead, as you mentioned, use seating die only for seating, then dedicated factory crimping die to crimp. Without crimp or not enough could have safety issues. Just last week at range, I saw remington factory ammo bullet came out(luckily not backed in) jamming the gun due to not enough crimp to hold the bullet under heavy recoil(the gun was a probi 2" s&w in 357mag).

I have been reloading 357Mag and am wondering do I need to taper crimp the cartridge when seating the bullet or just use the Factory crimp die after?

Should I back out the seating die to disable the crimp and just use the Factory crimp die for crimping?

 

[VinnyQC]

No crimp or very light crimp on the seating die. Then you can crimp as much as you want using the factory crimper, it won't crimp too much.

 

[SP641]

I seat and crimp separately. it boils down to personal preference, as both the 3 or 4 dies set will give out similar results IMHO.

 

[Dsiwy]

Thanks guys!

I had to easy up on the crimp as it was crushing my CAMPRO bullets. Now it's set to only leave a light line on the plated jacket.

 

[tjhaile]

I prefer to separate bullet seating and crimping operations and would therefore choose the Factory Crimp die instead of setting up the seating die to crimp. This way makes for easier adjustment of either operation and is no more extra work if you use a progressive press. I also think it makes for a better crimp, as the bullet is not being pushed into the case at the same time as the case is being crimped.

 

[CobraGuy]

Great chart....thanks for sharing.

This is a list of Lee Factory Crimp Dies for handgun cartridges. The chart specifies Roll or Taper:

 

[Pencilneck]

Been reloading hundreds of 357's, all I ever used is the seating die to crimp, never had a squib

357 with the seating die and 454 casull with a factory roll crimp die Campro bullets on both

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[Dsiwy]

^ I'm getting a 454 Casull next as was wondering if CANPRO bullets hold up, guess you answered that one