lee loadmaster- chain query
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The chain has always worked well for me - the only way to break it is to mis-adjust so as to bottom-out the takeup spring at the bottom.
But, if you really want to replace it with a cable and don't mind spending $$$ to have one custom-built, you could contact your local aircraft supply shop and have it done.
Or, go here: http://www.mcmaster.com/, goto page 1291, scroll down to 'create-your-own wire rope assemblies'. I'd put a fork on the top for the measure, and a threaded stud on the bottom to allow for adjustment. More effort than it's worth IMO, but quite doable.
But, if you really want to replace it with a cable and don't mind spending $$$ to have one custom-built, you could contact your local aircraft supply shop and have it done.
Or, go here: http://www.mcmaster.com/, goto page 1291, scroll down to 'create-your-own wire rope assemblies'. I'd put a fork on the top for the measure, and a threaded stud on the bottom to allow for adjustment. More effort than it's worth IMO, but quite doable.
Use a piece of 1/16 cable, with a small set screw style clamp on each end. You know, the ones that look like they came off of the choke on an old Chevy. Just make sure you still use the spring, and that it does not bind on the bottom of the stroke.
You know what I did with the chain on my Lee Pro 1000? I got rid of it and replaced it with a spring. The Auto-Disk powder measure has two methods of operation: chain reset and spring reset. You all know about chain reset, but spring reset is meant for using the Auto-Disk with the turret press where the turret spins around and you can't chain the powder measure down anywhere. The powder measure resets automatically when you lower the case from the die that you have the measure attached to. In order to convert the Auto-Disk, you'll need two parts: The "F" lever (p/n AD2309) and the spring (p/n AD2296). You replace the "T" lever on the Auto-Disk with the "F" lever and then hook one end of the spring on the notched arm of the "F" lever and hook the other end on the back of the Auto-Disk.
I replaced it with steel cable. One end of the cable (the bottom) I put it into a 45 cal mould with a knot in it and cast a bullet on it. I put the spring on then and wired it through the holes for the chain and looped it through itself. Voila it's done and cost me nothing and won't break again.
I have never had a problem with the original chain on my Loadmaster.
Some type of leather lace would work very well.
If you want to replace it with a steel cable, you can also use one of the inserts from the old style electrical Marr connectors that has a screw clamp to hold the wires. This would give adjustment.
Some type of leather lace would work very well.
If you want to replace it with a steel cable, you can also use one of the inserts from the old style electrical Marr connectors that has a screw clamp to hold the wires. This would give adjustment.
I came across this and thought it pretty good reading.
I have four Loadmasters set up for various calibers that I shoot and have set up six others for friends. They can be made to work very well, here's what I found to cure the problems. The way it comes from the factory with the dies assembled in the turret is not the way you want to set the press up. In small print as a HINT on page 6, under STATION 2 is how you should set up the press. If you don't have a universal decapping die, order another carbide sizing/decapping die and put that in station 1, this accomplishes the same thing without the decapping pin breakage problem since the die centers the case for the decapping pin and now you will have a free spare decapping pin. The primer slider, lm3252 for large primers and lm 3254 for small primers, is the spare part most likely to be needed. Lee replaces these free of charge, all you have to do is send it back. Call Lee at (262) 673-3075, they take credit cards, also get at least one universal decapping pin, the unbreakable one that breaks if the 1/2" nut is too tight and the case pusher doesn't. (push the case all the way in and the decap pin misses the primer flash hole and tries to punch a new primer hole in the case) Get a spray can or a can of motorcycle chain lube to apply to the feed rod, lm3262, the slider, lm3259 works better if it has a sticky lube on it, Lee used to recommend STP, but I can't find it any more. I'd use STP if I could find it. If your loadmaster feed rod has a silver coating on it, this is a new design but may still need lubed. I’ve had to polish the new silver feed rods with fine steel wool and lube them with motorcycle chain lube to make them function smoothly. Some silver feed rods work without lube right out of the box (from other shooters but not in my experience) and others don’t. I had hoped that the silver feed rods would break-in and not require lubrication but so far no luck. Check this rod for misalignment, if the slider hangs up and the rod is flexing, try rotating the rod a few degrees either way with a crescent wrench and recheck slider action. Be careful you can bend the feed rod, lm3262, if the handle feels springy about mid up stroke and you see the feed rod flexing, stop and move it by hand and fix/lube/adjust it. Feed rod lubrication problems manifests itself in two ways, slider binding with jerky movement is caused by no lube or the lube drying out and becoming too sticky relube or put on a drop of light oil. Case feeder not pushing the case all the way into the shell holder is cased by slider adjustment or lube not sticky enough. You will get a feel for this the more you use your loader, it's no big deal. When trouble shooting or just learning how the loader works, remove the TURRET with all the dies from the loader frame and then you can look straight down and watch the primer mechanism work with an unprimed case in place. You will have to reposition the primer lever against it’s outside stop to watch its’ engagement with the wedge bar and to observe for less than smooth movement. This is how I discovered what causes a primer to flip upside down or side ways in the primer trough. What I found was that anything that causes a hang up or jerky movement of the primer lever, like a burr from previous damage inside the primer trough or the primer lever hitting the case retainer, ect. needs to be corrected to cure the problem. I round the outside edge of the case retainer at station two with a file so the primer lever doesn't hang up on it. Rough engagement of the wedge bar can cause the primer lever to hang up then snap to the end of its travel and flip a primer. I polish and put a slight bend in the tip of the wedge bar for smoother engagement of the primer lever. Even with the carrier, LM3238 properly adjusted, the tab on the primer trough will lose it's memory and not keep the primer trough against the loader frame and in contact with the ribs that help shake the primers down from the tray. I came up with a modification that keeps the primer trough full of primers, I hot glue or epoxy a .22 rim fire case to the side of the primer trough after I cut a slot in the trough body, and fit a spring inside of the .22 case that keeps constant trough tab pressure on the frame ribs. The shell plate nut needs a more poositive lock then the O ring as when it gets loose the indexing gets eradic. Drill the nut for a set screw is the best solution. This fine tuning makes the Loadmaster reliable, I've loaded thousands of rounds with minimal problems. The Lee is much faster then any other loader, especially the blue ones.
I have four Loadmasters set up for various calibers that I shoot and have set up six others for friends. They can be made to work very well, here's what I found to cure the problems. The way it comes from the factory with the dies assembled in the turret is not the way you want to set the press up. In small print as a HINT on page 6, under STATION 2 is how you should set up the press. If you don't have a universal decapping die, order another carbide sizing/decapping die and put that in station 1, this accomplishes the same thing without the decapping pin breakage problem since the die centers the case for the decapping pin and now you will have a free spare decapping pin. The primer slider, lm3252 for large primers and lm 3254 for small primers, is the spare part most likely to be needed. Lee replaces these free of charge, all you have to do is send it back. Call Lee at (262) 673-3075, they take credit cards, also get at least one universal decapping pin, the unbreakable one that breaks if the 1/2" nut is too tight and the case pusher doesn't. (push the case all the way in and the decap pin misses the primer flash hole and tries to punch a new primer hole in the case) Get a spray can or a can of motorcycle chain lube to apply to the feed rod, lm3262, the slider, lm3259 works better if it has a sticky lube on it, Lee used to recommend STP, but I can't find it any more. I'd use STP if I could find it. If your loadmaster feed rod has a silver coating on it, this is a new design but may still need lubed. I’ve had to polish the new silver feed rods with fine steel wool and lube them with motorcycle chain lube to make them function smoothly. Some silver feed rods work without lube right out of the box (from other shooters but not in my experience) and others don’t. I had hoped that the silver feed rods would break-in and not require lubrication but so far no luck. Check this rod for misalignment, if the slider hangs up and the rod is flexing, try rotating the rod a few degrees either way with a crescent wrench and recheck slider action. Be careful you can bend the feed rod, lm3262, if the handle feels springy about mid up stroke and you see the feed rod flexing, stop and move it by hand and fix/lube/adjust it. Feed rod lubrication problems manifests itself in two ways, slider binding with jerky movement is caused by no lube or the lube drying out and becoming too sticky relube or put on a drop of light oil. Case feeder not pushing the case all the way into the shell holder is cased by slider adjustment or lube not sticky enough. You will get a feel for this the more you use your loader, it's no big deal. When trouble shooting or just learning how the loader works, remove the TURRET with all the dies from the loader frame and then you can look straight down and watch the primer mechanism work with an unprimed case in place. You will have to reposition the primer lever against it’s outside stop to watch its’ engagement with the wedge bar and to observe for less than smooth movement. This is how I discovered what causes a primer to flip upside down or side ways in the primer trough. What I found was that anything that causes a hang up or jerky movement of the primer lever, like a burr from previous damage inside the primer trough or the primer lever hitting the case retainer, ect. needs to be corrected to cure the problem. I round the outside edge of the case retainer at station two with a file so the primer lever doesn't hang up on it. Rough engagement of the wedge bar can cause the primer lever to hang up then snap to the end of its travel and flip a primer. I polish and put a slight bend in the tip of the wedge bar for smoother engagement of the primer lever. Even with the carrier, LM3238 properly adjusted, the tab on the primer trough will lose it's memory and not keep the primer trough against the loader frame and in contact with the ribs that help shake the primers down from the tray. I came up with a modification that keeps the primer trough full of primers, I hot glue or epoxy a .22 rim fire case to the side of the primer trough after I cut a slot in the trough body, and fit a spring inside of the .22 case that keeps constant trough tab pressure on the frame ribs. The shell plate nut needs a more poositive lock then the O ring as when it gets loose the indexing gets eradic. Drill the nut for a set screw is the best solution. This fine tuning makes the Loadmaster reliable, I've loaded thousands of rounds with minimal problems. The Lee is much faster then any other loader, especially the blue ones.
