I need to lengthen a wood stock that was previously shortened. I’m not sure what material to use that will look best. I’m thinking something solid black might be best. Its LOP is presently 12.5 including a 7/8 pad that was poorly installed. Does anyone sell an extra thick recoil pad? I would like 13.25-13.5 LOP. Any suggestions?
Lengthen LOP on wood stock. What material?
- Thread starter synik
- Start date
Do it right or don't do it at all.
Take off your butt pad, which you don't mention whether it's a factory hard plate or cushion type recoil pad.
Use the base of this pad as a template to mark out wood, plastic or even metal, such as aluminum, so you can cut out/drill holes with enough thickness to get the LOP you require. I usually make these up with 3-5mm thick plates.
You don't mention the type of stock, other than it's wood.
If you're planning on adding length to a collectible rifle, such as a full stock milsurp or Winchester lever action, the rubber butt pad would be your best choice, if it has a curved butt plate.
The late model 94 rifles, other than some of the Commemorative types, had flat ends on the butts to attach the butt plates.
Making up "shim" type plates is easy and they can be finished to look very nice. They can also be utilized without devaluing or altering your existing stock.
Don't glue them, just slip them together and get some proper length screws to torque the plates down. Unless you use very slippery material, they won't move.
I personally don't like the look of spacers made out of the sidewalls of tires, flip flops, or plastic buckets.
I have seen some very nice spacers made from 3/4 or 15mm belt scraper material, which comes in Red, White and Black.
Take off your butt pad, which you don't mention whether it's a factory hard plate or cushion type recoil pad.
Use the base of this pad as a template to mark out wood, plastic or even metal, such as aluminum, so you can cut out/drill holes with enough thickness to get the LOP you require. I usually make these up with 3-5mm thick plates.
You don't mention the type of stock, other than it's wood.
If you're planning on adding length to a collectible rifle, such as a full stock milsurp or Winchester lever action, the rubber butt pad would be your best choice, if it has a curved butt plate.
The late model 94 rifles, other than some of the Commemorative types, had flat ends on the butts to attach the butt plates.
Making up "shim" type plates is easy and they can be finished to look very nice. They can also be utilized without devaluing or altering your existing stock.
Don't glue them, just slip them together and get some proper length screws to torque the plates down. Unless you use very slippery material, they won't move.
I personally don't like the look of spacers made out of the sidewalls of tires, flip flops, or plastic buckets.
I have seen some very nice spacers made from 3/4 or 15mm belt scraper material, which comes in Red, White and Black.
Take your old pad off and add wood to to extend the butt 3/4" sorter then the desired length then add a slip on to cover the wood extension
There are grind to fit Nitro recoil pads that are quite thick.
HDPE (high-density polyethylene) is a cheap solution as you might be able to scoop one from the kitchen while the wife is out shopping for dinner.
Draw back is they are generally white in color.
Figure out the length of pull you need and double up or cut one spacer and add a nice soft aftermarket pad .
Rob
Draw back is they are generally white in color.
Figure out the length of pull you need and double up or cut one spacer and add a nice soft aftermarket pad .
Rob
I've been wondering the same thing. I have an Ithaca 20 gauge a previous owner cut short for his wife. The current butt end is so small a slip-on pad doesn't fit correctly.
I have a couple of donor stocks around I have considered cutting to the right length and lengthing the shotgun butt that way.
I do not have a shop or decent tools though. I am not a do-it-yourself woodworker at all other than being able to run a chainsaw and split firewood.
I have a couple of donor stocks around I have considered cutting to the right length and lengthing the shotgun butt that way.
I do not have a shop or decent tools though. I am not a do-it-yourself woodworker at all other than being able to run a chainsaw and split firewood.
Industrial supply shops or online, or you can go to just about any place that uses belt conveyors for gravel, glass, sand and they will have it on hand.
It rubs on the bottom of the head roller and causes anything sticking to the belt to fall off.
If you send me an address, I will send you some. I have 5/8 in and 1 inch thickness bits left.
This stuff is not rock hard. It's relatively soft but it's also very tough.
You will still have to shape it with a belt sander or grinder.
Yes, you can cut it with a razor knife, but it's very difficult/almost impossible to cut to desired shape and finish with a blade.
- Location
- Blaster land, Okanagan BC
Horse rubber stall mats would work well also, is somewhere around 1/2”-5/8” thick. Same thing as the rubber truck bed mats, have a bunch of off cuts of it I’m going to use to hang 8” steel plates.
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I’ve never used one, but carpenters use a thin bladed saw, coping saw I believe. I bet one of those would help cutting the initial shape.
Adding a whole inch of lop? I would add a piece of wood to the stock. Stacking thin bits of whatever is fine for small adjustments but won't look nice if you need half a dozen of them. You'll need a new recoil pad thats a little bigger if you follow the existing stock contours too.
It really depends on how nice you want it to look afterwards. Or if you just want serviceable. Nothing wrong with that.
It really depends on how nice you want it to look afterwards. Or if you just want serviceable. Nothing wrong with that.
If you really are into cosmetics, find a replacement stock.
Would cure the appetite for making the unit look good and proper.
If you just want to make it work, then find a Pachmyer pad in the over thickness varitety.
Add a slip on pad and this should be enough to make it lengthy.
It's a tough decision on what route to take on a budget.
Would cure the appetite for making the unit look good and proper.
If you just want to make it work, then find a Pachmyer pad in the over thickness varitety.
Add a slip on pad and this should be enough to make it lengthy.
It's a tough decision on what route to take on a budget.
Backcountryal
CGN Regular
- Location
- New Zealand
Firstly get rid of the present butt pad cos youre gonna need a bigger one to keep the lines of the butt. Buy the thickest you can that suits your preferance in style and colour etc. Then cut some rough spacers out of say 6mm ply and stack em up to determine the size of the spacer you will need to achieve the length you want. I have lengthened several butts using clear acrylic blocks of the desired thickness, can get it up to about 1 1/2" thick relatively easy from your local industrial plastics supplier. Fit it all together and grind to shape as you would any butt pad, making sure you retain the lines of the stock. Then take it apart again and polish the edges of the acrylic block with brass polish or similar until it comes up crystal clear, you can see through it. Reassemble. Or if you dont like the see through look, use black acrylic and matching black butt pad. Polish up the same, If you dont like the nice shine you can get on the acrylic use some 1200 grit or finer sandpaper and carefully make it a matt finish. Its easy to do, should only take 2-3 hours for an immaculate job.And way easier that trying to match up a short piece of wooden butt from a donor stock.
I also use this method when refitting the original piece of the stock. After sanding both the butt and the extra piece absolutely flat, I fit in an acrylic spacer between, maybe 5mm thick. This makes up for the wood removed when cutting the butt shorter, and some. Then sand the butt to a nice finish and refit the original butt pad. But this does require you to refinish the whole butt so that its all matching, albeit with a clear fine line just forward of the butt pad.
I also use this method when refitting the original piece of the stock. After sanding both the butt and the extra piece absolutely flat, I fit in an acrylic spacer between, maybe 5mm thick. This makes up for the wood removed when cutting the butt shorter, and some. Then sand the butt to a nice finish and refit the original butt pad. But this does require you to refinish the whole butt so that its all matching, albeit with a clear fine line just forward of the butt pad.
