I am looking for advice on a scope leveling system. Is the Wheeler scope leveling tool sufficient which is basically a level for the gun and one for the level. Or should I get the professional system that has th one level attaché to the barrel and one for the scope. I have 5 different scopes to mount.
Level For Scope Mounting
- Thread starter Rem54
- Start date
Potato boy
Regular
- Location
- North of the mountain
Wheeler works for me, get the model with the barrel clamp not the action level.
gunaddict99
CGN Regular
- Location
- Just west of Ottawa ON
I found their basic one that went in the action unsatisfactory, as it didn't fit all actions. I later purchased the barrel clamp model and found it much better. A cheap way is to use a string and plum bob to align the vertical bar of the reticle
Most shooters don't shoulder a rifle so the action is plumb(level).
Everyone has a natural hold.
I prefer to shoulder the rifle at the range and hang a plumb line @ 100 yards.
I level the crosshairs with plumline and then set the bubble level.
Otherwise you may/might find yourself fighting the bubble level while shooting which isn't natural.
Canting the rifle isn't a huge issue as long as the reticle is plumb.
Everyone has a natural hold.
I prefer to shoulder the rifle at the range and hang a plumb line @ 100 yards.
I level the crosshairs with plumline and then set the bubble level.
Otherwise you may/might find yourself fighting the bubble level while shooting which isn't natural.
Canting the rifle isn't a huge issue as long as the reticle is plumb.
The “cheaper” Wheeler kit containing just two bubble levels, is $31.99 worth of junk.... on one level (in my kit) the one used to stick to the side of the action, the surfaces were not even ground at precise right angles, from the factory... the level was manufactured as not ever indicating a true level/ plumb... as stated above, spend a little extra for either Wheeler’s professional version or one from another company.... $31.99 for two plastic bubble levels is ridiculous too.... if only we could all boycott Chinese junk....
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Vern Kowalski
Member
- Location
- East Central Saskatchewan
I've used the simple Wheeler leveler and did not like it at all. The professional model by Wheeler with the barrel clamp is a huge improvement.
EXD Engineering, Vertical Reticle instrument. There is a thread on rimfire central in the states about leveling showing how to use this. It sold me, have the Wheeler system but there never was a flat surface on the gun to use the levels. The method of using the scope turret isn’t always the best.
canadaman30
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Far from the City
Magnetic roof truss dial gauge from CT for about 25.00 work great.
BigUglyMan
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- New Scotland
This.
Level the rifle in a gun vice/ rest. Then hang a plumb line and line up the reticle to that plumb line. I've used this method to level many scopes. I've also used the corner of my neigbour's house which I verified as plumb with my full size level.
This works really well if you are hunting with a gun vice/rest.
If you are just using your shoulder, use that and go with a natural hold (including your natural cant) and a string line..
I agree.
It's easily seen when you goto range.
You shoulder rifle and try to level the action with the bubble but will always find yourself "fighting" the bubble.
Unless you naturally shoulder the rifle perfectly level.
Set the rifle to your shoulder and level the scope to a plumb line...then lock the bubble down.
Having the action canted will not affect accuracy.
BigUglyMan
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- New Scotland
At hunting distances that most game is shot at it makes absolutely no difference if it's plumb or not. When you start marching off into the great wide open it's important to have the rifle level and the scope plumb. If the scope is canted then as you reach farther out your scope will not track true on either the elevation or windage.
Since most hunting shots will be shot off a rest of some sort, it's important to do everything right in advance of taking to the field. And since I have yet to see a person who can shoulder a rifle, hold it still, match it to a plumb line and adjust the scope as necessary all the while, I'll stick to my method.
- Location
- Vancouver Island BC
Perhaps one could set up a rest / vise in such a way that you could shoulder the rifle but it is still in the vise? Either at the edge of a table or something that works at standing height? Then leave the rifle at whatever cant is produced by putting it to your shoulder as naturally as possible, then line up the scope vertical to a plumb line? I am just very new at this... I am waiting for my first scope for my first rifle, i will be doing practice and silhouette with a 455 american. I have no idea yet how much difference it will make to have a cant or not. However some members suggest, and this is strictly for silhouette shooting, that having a cant between rifle and scope reduces neck strain at matches and during long practice sessions. We shall see, i plan on experimenting with scope / rifle adjustment to find what is most comfortable and most accurate for me. Eventually i will be shooting long range target from a rest, and with that setup it will likely make the most sense to be absolutely sure the rifle and scope are adjusted to each other accurately. Also a huge thanks to the community here i have learned so much in the past few days i almost feel like i might actually hit a target on my first day out at the range. Hopefully it will be the one i am aiming at lol.
I guess the bigger question,
What is the intended use and at what ranges for the scopes?
On my 900M .308 target rig i expected nothing but pure perfection, went with a spuhr uni mount which has a self leveling shim included.
On my shorty lightweight .308, which will unlikely ever shoot pass 200M, used regular rings with the basic wheeler leveling system, looks good enough.
What is the intended use and at what ranges for the scopes?
On my 900M .308 target rig i expected nothing but pure perfection, went with a spuhr uni mount which has a self leveling shim included.
On my shorty lightweight .308, which will unlikely ever shoot pass 200M, used regular rings with the basic wheeler leveling system, looks good enough.
