Leveling off filling on triggerguard

MBiz

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Hello everyone,
I know they have been a few discussions about files here. Since my knowledge about metal file is inexistent, I would appreciate your recommendation on the type of file to use to level off the filling on that trigger guard that was done with a TIG. Thank you in advance for your help.
IMG-1528.jpg
 
A smooth mill file will do that, slowly. Then to remove the file marks 220 grit wet/dry paper wrapped around that file...
 
Depending where you are starting on use of a file - is dozens of them - is not "one" file - most all have teeth that are sharp going one way - push and make it cut going that way - lift it more or less right off the work to come back - do not drag the teeth backwards across the work piece - that will simply dull or bend over those teeth and it won't cut. Is also helpful to use chalk and a file brush to keep those file teeth clean - they will cut much nicer - very nasty to get a chunk of crud stuck in the teeth that make a gouge in the work piece. Expect to take weeks or months of practice to file something dead flat - most of the time, we "rock" the file on the stroke - taking more off at near end and at far end of the work piece - leaving a "hump". Some files will have a safe "face" or safe "edge" - no teeth - they will not cut in that direction. If you are trying to file a sharp inside corner, then need a file with teeth shaped like that, or use some "safe" edged files to get in there.

Not sure if I have done it, but likely did - I never have owned a milling machine - so was a thing at one time to use a sharp, cold chisel to tap and slice out metal when initially re-shaping something.

Your best chance at getting a good filing job is to get the work piece securely held in something - like a vise - and use both your hands to file - will be VERY hard to make a nice job holding the work piece in one hand and the file in the other hand, with the assembly on your lap or where-ever. Sometimes have to come up with a holding jig - I have one that I bolt a Mauser receiver to - then the bench vise grabs that jig - holds the receiver very rigid, but no risk of marking or crushing the receiver with the vise - and both hands free to file on that receiver.
 
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Your best chance at getting a good filing job is to get the work piece securely held in something - like a vise - and use both your hands to file - will be VERY hard to make a nice job holding the work piece in one hand and the file in the other hand, with the assembly on your lap or where-ever. Sometimes have to come up with a holding jig - I have one that I bolt a Mauser receiver to - then the bench vise grabs that jig - holds the receiver very rigid, but no risk of marking or crushing it with the vise - and both hands free to file on that receiver.

x2 on a way to hold the piece securely. I'd also recommend a good light and a bit of magnification.
 
Ouch,

All is not going to clean up w/o some rework.

Grind the excess weld w/a cut off wheel in a die grinder using the circumference & flat of the wheel.

A #2,#4,#6 swiss pattern 1/2 round jewellers/precision files will make short work of the blending task.
 
Hello everyone,
I know they have been a few discussions about files here. Since my knowledge about metal file is inexistent, I would appreciate your recommendation on the type of file to use to level off the filling on that trigger guard that was done with a TIG. Thank you in advance for your help.

American pattern files come in 3 cuts - Bastard, Second and Smooth (or fine) - these are the files you see in Crappy tire, Princess Auto etc.

A mill file has a parallel section and a slight taper to the front 1/3 or so. Guntech is referring to the shape - (and the cut)

Buy one with a safe edge - or grind it yourself.... You will also want a smooth half round to get inside the trigger guard. both 8" length

Nicholsen or Grobet are the brands that will fit the price point for one job. Don't buy files from Princess auto. Don't worry about Swiss pattern files.

$30/$40 should get you tucked in.

It looks like you have at least one pin hole that will need to be cleared - also looks like there will be some voids when done.


That being said, using a file effectively does take some talent - maybe consider taking to someone, they will have the job done in under 15 minutes.
 
Thank you all for you help. I gave a try and you can see there is some porosity in my welding, I don’t know why. It was my first attempt at TIG welding. Obviously, I need practice. It is not perfect but I far should I go for a 1904 Browning auto 5 trigger guard.

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So what tools did you use?

It looks quite good and when it's blued or powder coated those porosity holes will be unnoticeable or covered.
 
So what tools did you use?

It looks quite good and when it's blued or powder coated those porosity holes will be unnoticeable or covered.

I started with a small drum mounted on a Dremel followed by a fine flat file for the flat parts and chainsaw file for the inside of the guard. The smoothening was done with the "Mirka” sand paper starting with 80 grits followed by 100 up to 280. I also used diamond coated needle files for the intricate parts of the trigger guard. I intend to rust blue the guard.
 
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