Levers and rolling blocks

H Wally

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So, on the topic of lever actions and rolling blocks:

I'm a student, but I work a side job to afford my firearm habit. What is a rough entry range into the lever or rolling block community? I like the look of the blued octagonal barrels and the far back set triggers:p If there's a particular rifle or caliber you favour in them, I'd like to hear why.

Secondly, are any of these rifles available in fairly common calibers? (.308, 30-06, .303, 7.62x54R, 7.62x39, 8mm) (I'm a milsurp shooter you see, that's what I reload, so it would help to be a similar caliber)

Anyways, I await your infinite wisdom and sarcasm.:wave:
 
Take a look at the Rolling Block Rifles sold by TradeEx, one of the site sponsors here.
http://www.tradeexcanada.com/index.php?option=com_paxgallery&task=table&gid=16
These are mostly military Rolling Blocks that went into refurb about the same time the bolt action rifle took over the battlefield, causing them to get fired into storage. A lot were then converted into Forester's rifles (think game warden/conservation officer) and eventually sold off as surplus.
There are a fair few civ models (Husqvarna, and Carl Gustav made) and unconverted military guns among their stuff, too.
http://dutchman.rebooty.com/1889sporter.html Take a look at the rest of the info on this site to see options for ammo.

That's the cheap way in. Set triggers will double or triple your entry cost at this point. Unless you are right handy with hacksaws and files.

From there on up, it gets expensive, either to build it or buy.

You are pretty much stuck with the new production Browning or Winchester guns if you want a modern caliber. The high pressure rounds amount to being a really dumb idea, on a roller, and a Winchester action, esp. one with set triggers, is gonna cost a LOT unless you are lottery-grade lucky.
Remington RB's were made in 7mm Mauser. Be a bad idea to hot rod the loads, though.

Check around online for the Pedersolli rifles. CPA makes a decent copy of the Stevens 44 1/2. There are about 5 outfits making Winchester 1885's in various price levels, and about as many making Sharps' copies.

Have fun. Be sitting when you start looking at the prices for most of the stuff out there!

Cheers
Trev
 
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Completely forgot tradex!

Just curious what to expect on some of these.

Like this one: http://www.tradeexcanada.com/index.php?option=com_paxgallery&task=view&gid=16&iid=3289

It says it's 16 gauge, and I knotice the price is significantly lower, but does that imply that it was for some reason made into a smooth bore to fire shot shells, or is it still rifled? Also, since they're dated 1867 I'm assuming they're black powder cartridges?

I know it's a lot to ask, but it always helps the most when I can get direct answers.
 
I've bought a couple rollers from Tradeex and been quite impressed. Condition was at least as good as stated and they were very helpful to talk to. Quick to post extra pics if you ask as well.

The 12.7 X 44 can often be shot with modified 50-70 brass. Don't know that you would ever get any better than plinking grade accuracy from them thou.

I have a 12ga. from them that I shoot with black powder and brass shells. It even had a sight on it that worked pretty well. The other one that I got is a 8X58R Danish Krag and I've only begun to work up a load for it. Again with black powder. Black seldom works very well in necked cartridges and both dies and odd diameter bullet molds have been a bit of a hassle.

To be more specific to your questions: The 16ga will be a smoothbore probably made as a sporting or gamekeepers gun. I would stick to lighter loads but it should be safe with smokeless. It may have been a 12.7X44 and rebarrelled but the 12 ga I have looks like it was made as a shotgun (has funny shaped breach block and twin extractors). The 8X58R were rebarrelled in the 1890's from what I understand and would have been 12.7X44 originally.

And a link to fill out my long winded answer:
http://dutchman.rebooty.com/rb.html
 
The Winchester 1895 is a levergun that can be found in both 30-06 and 303 British. However, it will set you back at least $1,000 to get one of them.
 
Re: the 16 gauge;

It was likely one of the civ sporting models I spoke of earlier. I bought one of these (with a welded shut barrel, due to a crack) for really cheap without looking at it too closely first, and the action is not the same as the military actions. If you look close at the picture you can see the radius on the action around the breech block pin, and there are other shapes and sizes differences.
Best bet if you are looking for one to shoot right off, is one of the 12.7 guns. The 8x58RD guns have better heat treating, and are like to be in better shape (but not for sure) and have the new rotary extractor, but are not antique status guns until they are re barreled to something bigger, like a 38-55 or a 40-65, as examples. It's that or deal with oddball brass and odder dies. One way or the other, you gotta lay out some coin for getting it shooting. The guns with dates on them are easier to prove for antique status, but I am not certain of how the CFC is treating the attempts to get the others de-registered.

My plan, and what I would do again, is to re barrel one of the 8x58's to a 40 caliber black powder cartridge and start from there, with available brass and dies. As nice as it would be to keep it all together, I don't see finding the dies or molds or ammo as a real likelihood right now. I won't chuck the barrel, but there is not really enough meat on it to re-bore it, or re-line it, so waddya gonna do.
On that basis I would suggest that you shop for an action and wood, and not worry much about the state of the bore.
If you are looking to buy one of those rollers, anyways.

There really is no way to get into a lever or rolling block single shot cheaply, and still have a reasonable expectation of shooting it. The modern replicas are pretty damn good, but cost a fair few bucks, and then, if you actually want to be able to shoot ammo that is readily available, you are further limited to fewer, and more expensive models.

<sigh>

Cheers
Trev
 
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If you like the rolling Block, forget the high intensity cartridges, they will tax even the #7 smokeless action. There are a few single shots that can handle the high pressure carts.. the best for that is the Ruger#1. You won't get by cheaply though as most folks want one(a Rolling Block) with a good barrel chambered in an early cartridge that will work for hunting and target work ie: 45/70, 45/90, 40/65, 50/90, etc, all Black Powder.
Let's cost this out, used RB $700, Badger barrel $400, new wood $200, gunsmithing $200+, Triggers are usually not good on the old guns, so maybe more gunsmithing. The other alt. is a new gun from one of the quality US makers, Shiloh or C. Sharps for the '74, CPA for the Stevens 44 1/2, Lone Star for the Rolling Block,etc.
 
I have bought several RB's from TradeEx incld. a 16 gauge. You can get a Green mountain barrel almost half the price of a Badger. Action for around the $300.00 mark. Gumsmithing would be the highest cost me thinks. Not meant to hijack, but does anyone want to mount a barrel for me? costs?

Another option would be to reline the existing barrel. You could make a "baby roller" in .45 colt. That would be a fun project.
 
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