Load 300WM to 30'06

Okay guys.

Look.

I also shoot some factory loads out of my 30'06 which i find tolerable and they are on the upper side pushing around 2790fps according to the box.

So if I can load the 300wm down to those levels that would be swell.

Does anyone have an answer to my primer question?

Also, the us military decided that the garand 30'06 was about the max recoil the average soldier could handle and still remain accurate.

I've read a lot of opinions from gun writers that 15-17lbs is about the most people can handle without developing a flinch. A lot of people have a flinch and don't even realize it.

The 25lbs from the 300wm is just too much. I don't want to develop a flinch

Regards

the us military also decided that the average soldier was 5'6 and 150 pounds- do you fit that profile- i don't - neither did any of the guys in my unit-if you start with a deer load and work your way up you won't develop a flinch- it's a rifle , NOT A CANNON- and with the PROPER COACHING, you won't develop a flinch even with the heaviest of loads- a flinch is usually developed in ANTICIPATION of recoil- THAT MEANS YOU'RE SCARED OF WHAT'S COMING not the actual recoil itself- IF YOU CAN SHOOT A 12 GUAGE, you can do the 300
 
I'm not really interested in a break.

What I usually shoot from my 30'06 is 180gr pill travelling around 2560fps or so...

I'd just like to solve the problem with reloading as I find that load for my 30'06 to be completely managable.

Desired velocity: 2500fps
Max Listed Velocity (300WM 180gn bullet): 3230
Listed Powder Charge: 66.5gns IMR4320
Reduced Powder Charge: 48.3gn IMR4320.

This should work for you. PM me for further details.
 
As for the maximum loads, don't go below the minimum loads for any powder. Issues can result from too little powder in that large case.

If you can't find a real .300 Win load that you can tolerate, sell the rifle. But do not try to "cook up" some load on your own that you think should work because it works in another caliber.
Seriously? Is something going to happen in that case with a 3/4 load that won't happen in hundreds of other cases where reduced loads still more than half fill the cases?
Some of us here have been shooting reduced loads in a large variety of cartridges for decades. For the most part and most powders (NOT the SLOWEST BURNING ONES), so long as you do not drop below 1/2 of your case capacity, you can safely develop reduced loads for your rifle.

OP, although there are some powders that you should not reduce much, IMR4320 is not one of them. However, I would use the rest of the proper components as if you were loading a real, full bore cartridge.
 
i use 3031 for 308 and 30 06 -- 46 gr is max and the 300 wm is only 50gr to start . try powders and see what shoots well , i use 75gr of 4831 in the 300 and if you want to fix your flinch try 99gr of 4831 in 375 rum

I have used IMR 3031 for 30-06 performance in both the 300 Win Mag and the 308 Norma Mag.
50 grains with the 180 gets right into your ballpark of 2650-2700 fps.
As for erratic performance....never experienced any.
As a matter of fact, I shot some mighty fine groups with this load in the magnums. Actually, som spectacular groups.
Regards, Eagleye.
 
Okay guys.

Look.

I also shoot some factory loads out of my 30'06 which i find tolerable and they are on the upper side pushing around 2790fps according to the box.

So if I can load the 300wm down to those levels that would be swell.

Does anyone have an answer to my primer question?

Also, the us military decided that the garand 30'06 was about the max recoil the average soldier could handle and still remain accurate.

I've read a lot of opinions from gun writers that 15-17lbs is about the most people can handle without developing a flinch. A lot of people have a flinch and don't even realize it.

The 25lbs from the 300wm is just too much. I don't want to develop a flinch

Regards

Ah. Well there's your problem. You have read too much about recoil and flinching. ;)

Seriously now, I just grabbed an old Speer manual that was handy. For a 180 gr Mag-tip they list the following:

IMR4320

Starting 56.0gr for 2539fps
Max 60.0gr for 2732fps

IMR4895

Starting 56.0 for 2610fps
Max 60.0 for 2802 fps

IMR3031

Starting 52.0 for 2499fps
Max 56.0 for 2710fps

That should get you started, once you get used to those loads you can increase the speed with other powders. Although a magnum primer wouldn't help with these faster powders, it likely won't hurt either. If you are using a mag primer, use it from the get-go. And once you do move on to slower powders, a mag primer can be beneficial, particularly in cold weather.
 
Thanks for the load data guys. I will pick up some magnum primers and begin testing tomorrow.

I find my 12ga 3" shells to be satisfactory while waterfowling but then with a scattergun sometimes you're not aware of any flinching.

I just know that the 30'06 and 270 loads I shoot now are okay and judging by my groups, I know I don't flinch.

Increasing the recoil by 20% just has me worried about developing one without realizing it and then trying to break that later.

I just thought it would be very prudent to start with the same recoil level I have now and work my way up slowly by increasing my load rather than taking such a big leap.

I believe my technique is quite good with the current firearms I shoot based on my results.

I'd like to keep it that way.

I'll try the loads out and report back if there are any issues.

Thanks
 
Seriously? Is something going to happen in that case with a 3/4 load that won't happen in hundreds of other cases where reduced loads still more than half fill the cases?
Some of us here have been shooting reduced loads in a large variety of cartridges for decades. For the most part and most powders (NOT the SLOWEST BURNING ONES), so long as you do not drop below 1/2 of your case capacity, you can safely develop reduced loads for your rifle.

OP, although there are some powders that you should not reduce much, IMR4320 is not one of them. However, I would use the rest of the proper components as if you were loading a real, full bore cartridge.

So, you agree that for some powders, using too little in a case can cause problems. For that reason I advise anyone wanting to download a cartridge to stick to tested minimum loads with any powder. Someone who has lots of experience, and experienced friends, loading reduced loads is no issue. If a shooter is asking on this forum, I think the advice to stick to tested loads is sound.

Seriously? You agreed with everything I said.
 
seriously, a past pad is probably the answer- probably MORE than enough- i use one on my beretta m14( that's a beretta STOCKED m14) WITH 308/180S and that has nothing but a STEEL ROD( THINK STEN GUN mk2) between the shoulder and the receiver
 
So, you agree that for some powders, using too little in a case can cause problems. For that reason I advise anyone wanting to download a cartridge to stick to tested minimum loads with any powder. Someone who has lots of experience, and experienced friends, loading reduced loads is no issue. If a shooter is asking on this forum, I think the advice to stick to tested loads is sound.

Seriously? You agreed with everything I said.
Then what's the point of reloading.
What you are saying is that no one who is at all isolated from experienced reloaders should attempt anything other than strict adherence to a listed load recipe. Never exceed the max because you have no idea of how to check for pressure signs, etc. You my friend are a nay-sayer. If they are asking questions, it is to expand their knowledge and skills. If you just want people to stick to tested loads then you should be telling them to stick to factory rounds. They are the safest. A member wants to know if downloading is possible. Answer - yes. Member wants to know how to go about it - we help. We don't say - Nah, it's too dangerous for a newbie, just stick to what you have, suck it up, or get rid of it.
If I used that philosophy 20 yrs ago when I started reduced loads for my kids in a Lee Enfield, they would never have shot it. Because NO ONE made factory reduced recoil loads then. However, I read lots, talked to people who had been reloading for many years, found a way to calculate reduced loads and loaded rounds to 1600fps. Very low felt recoil for a child under 10. As they got older, bigger, more familiar with the round, i increased it until by 14, they could all shoot factory loads through that rifle.
I am really glad I never talked to you then or I'd still be looking for a rifle my grandkids can shoot.
I am unsure why many members on here insist on stifling creative activity simply because there is an element of danger in it. Stress the 3C's when you are giving reloading advice, CARE, CAUTION, CONTROL and things will work out fine. Don't just blanket it all as TOO DANGEROUS.
 
Then what's the point of reloading.
What you are saying is that no one who is at all isolated from experienced reloaders should attempt anything other than strict adherence to a listed load recipe. Never exceed the max because you have no idea of how to check for pressure signs, etc. You my friend are a nay-sayer. If they are asking questions, it is to expand their knowledge and skills. If you just want people to stick to tested loads then you should be telling them to stick to factory rounds. They are the safest. A member wants to know if downloading is possible. Answer - yes. Member wants to know how to go about it - we help. We don't say - Nah, it's too dangerous for a newbie, just stick to what you have, suck it up, or get rid of it.
If I used that philosophy 20 yrs ago when I started reduced loads for my kids in a Lee Enfield, they would never have shot it. Because NO ONE made factory reduced recoil loads then. However, I read lots, talked to people who had been reloading for many years, found a way to calculate reduced loads and loaded rounds to 1600fps. Very low felt recoil for a child under 10. As they got older, bigger, more familiar with the round, i increased it until by 14, they could all shoot factory loads through that rifle.
I am really glad I never talked to you then or I'd still be looking for a rifle my grandkids can shoot.
I am unsure why many members on here insist on stifling creative activity simply because there is an element of danger in it. Stress the 3C's when you are giving reloading advice, CARE, CAUTION, CONTROL and things will work out fine. Don't just blanket it all as TOO DANGEROUS.

That is just absurd. I know no other word for it.

I gave advice about reloading safely. What on earth is there about my thoughts on reloading that make such an irrelevant, hyperbolic, logically bankrupt rant appropriate? "Stifling creative activity"???? Come on!
 
I'm not really interested in a break.

What I usually shoot from my 30'06 is 180gr pill travelling around 2560fps or so...

I'd just like to solve the problem with reloading as I find that load for my 30'06 to be completely managable.

Sell the 300 as it is clearly far too much rifle for you. You want to knock 400 FPS off 300 WM speeds just for the sake of shooting this rifle? It's a waste of time and effort especially since you have a 30-06 that you have already neutered to be a glorified 308. You're completely wrong about the velocities you claim as my 30-06 with 180 Noslers yields 2750 FPS using IMR 4350. The loads shown on the Nosler site only demonstrate velocities with powder that is too fast.

I agree with martinbns' comments about what is the point? Downloading your 30-06 so that you can teach your kid to shoot deer without beatign the snot out of them - logical. Downloading your 300WM to 308 levels when you already own a neutered 30-06 - inexplicable.
 
Oh please :rolleyes:

Read the thread.

I stated:

- I also shoot 30'06 factory loads which develop the same speeds you're shooting and they don't bother me.

-I want to start with the same rough speed I'm used to (see above statement) and WORK MY WAY UP from there. I don't want to develop a flinch so I want to work my way up.

It's really pretty simple.

Hey, if you don't have anything to actually contribute then why don't you stay out of the thread instead of crapping all over it?

But hey, if you're offering to purchase the rifle from me for exactly what it would cost to replace with a lower recoiling caliber in exactly the same rifle then we can talk. Otherwise, I'll work on the loads, thanks.
 
if reloading try a 200 gr hpbt and use 35 gr of rx7 to start ( see lyman 46) add shot to the forstock ,1 lb, and go from there, if you like it, good to go if not try another load, i can only tell you what i shoot and what i load
 
But hey, if you're offering to purchase the rifle from me for exactly what it would cost to replace with a lower recoiling caliber in exactly the same rifle then we can talk. Otherwise, I'll work on the loads, thanks.

Nah, I'm good. I've already got a 308. And a 30-06. And a 300 H&H. And a 300 WM. I've got the 30's well enough covered. Too bad you weren't trying to turn a 7 RUM into a 7-30 Waters, I haven't got any 7mm rifles yet.
 
If it is a Tikka, you may want to change stocks to a laminate and chances are recoil won't be as bad. From my Speer manual, 60 grains of WW-760 or H-414(same powder) 2600 fps. 82 grains of the very slow AA8700 (or the old H-870) shows 2526 fps. They consider this min. for the .300 win. mag. Something else you might want to consider is reducing bullet weight to 165 gr. and a reduced charge.
 
Reduced loads

I don't bother with reduced loads,but the king of reduced loads is IMR-4895. What I DO use is closed cell foam pad. The Limbsaver didn't work worth a sh**,so I added the foam.Load some at hunting speed,and practice with the soft stuff.
 
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