Load dev inquiry- approaching higher end of hot load
- Thread starter MartyK2500
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I don’t think these are fancy dies and don’t take my posts for advice, as I’m experimenting this year.
Recently subscribed to YouTube 6.5 Guys channel and they are the ones that got me trying this...
Forster Full length resizing die, remove the expander ball in it. You can also order a custom one from Forster, they call this honed and will work less necks. My 0.2 moa group was done with a regular one, it just worked the neck more than it should of.
Sinclair expanding mandrel die and sinclair expansion mandrel in your caliber size.
Forster national match micrometer bullet seating die.
Xreload has got everything and appears easily when using their search function.
Recently subscribed to YouTube 6.5 Guys channel and they are the ones that got me trying this...
Forster Full length resizing die, remove the expander ball in it. You can also order a custom one from Forster, they call this honed and will work less necks. My 0.2 moa group was done with a regular one, it just worked the neck more than it should of.
Sinclair expanding mandrel die and sinclair expansion mandrel in your caliber size.
Forster national match micrometer bullet seating die.
Xreload has got everything and appears easily when using their search function.
You can achieve the same thing (as getting a honed Forster die) using Redding FL bushing dies (and various bushings). I use either or, depending on what is available at the time I'm getting dies for a new caliber. I use the 21st Century expander die but it's the same as the Sinclair one and can use Sinclair mandrels. I do prefer the Forster micrometer seating dies to the Redding ones though.
I've always felt the perfect die for target shooting would be a custom honed bushing die to do a minimal resize on the body and a slight shoulder bump, but here's the kicker...
Bushing dies do not come with an expander ball, but they should, and expander balls should be available in different sizes just like the bushings themselves, but in 0.0002" increments.
This way we could pair the bushing, which controls how much we size the neck from the outside, with the expander ball that tweaks out neck wall thickness variation by precisely tweaking the neck from the inside. We would get much more consistent neck tension without neck turning.
I contacted Redding some years ago about this and they couldn't get their heads around it.
Bushing dies work well if you neck turn, but not so well if you dont, but adding an expander to a bushing die would help split the difference.
Bushing dies do not come with an expander ball, but they should, and expander balls should be available in different sizes just like the bushings themselves, but in 0.0002" increments.
This way we could pair the bushing, which controls how much we size the neck from the outside, with the expander ball that tweaks out neck wall thickness variation by precisely tweaking the neck from the inside. We would get much more consistent neck tension without neck turning.
I contacted Redding some years ago about this and they couldn't get their heads around it.
Bushing dies work well if you neck turn, but not so well if you dont, but adding an expander to a bushing die would help split the difference.
I guess with that concept, the excess neck wall thickness would be moved to the length of the neck, then trimmed of? Or it might get pushed back into the shoulder? I just use a collet to bypass the neck turning. However my plan is to neck turn at some point as it should be done anyway.
To be honest, I neck turn every firing in this caliber now, as I recently noticed the need for it.
Even when using a Lee neck collet die, I would end up with donuts at the base of the neck exterior after 3 firings.
So I just skim the necks every firings, and lightly sand with an old used 1000 grit sandpaper so that neck has a nice uniform look to it.
So by neck turning every firing, I’m GTG with my honed die.
Even when using a Lee neck collet die, I would end up with donuts at the base of the neck exterior after 3 firings.
So I just skim the necks every firings, and lightly sand with an old used 1000 grit sandpaper so that neck has a nice uniform look to it.
So by neck turning every firing, I’m GTG with my honed die.
The frequency of the need to neck turn really depends on your seating depth and throat. Does a seated bullet sit below the neck to shoulder?
I always get my target guns throated so the base of the bearing surface of the bullet I'm planning to use is forward of the donut. That way donuts are not an issue.
If you are dealing with donuts, or the possibility of donuts, I use a Redding sizing die bushing as a Go - No Go gage. Just select one that is 2 or 3 thousandths smaller than the neck diameter of a fired case and slide it over the neck of your reloads. If there is resistance and it will not drop all the way to the shoulder, then you know there is something to be concerned about.
If the bushing drops all the way to the shoulder, you are good to go.
I always get my target guns throated so the base of the bearing surface of the bullet I'm planning to use is forward of the donut. That way donuts are not an issue.
If you are dealing with donuts, or the possibility of donuts, I use a Redding sizing die bushing as a Go - No Go gage. Just select one that is 2 or 3 thousandths smaller than the neck diameter of a fired case and slide it over the neck of your reloads. If there is resistance and it will not drop all the way to the shoulder, then you know there is something to be concerned about.
If the bushing drops all the way to the shoulder, you are good to go.
What brass do you use?
